Resizing problem

Guys I am having a resizing issue I hope you can help with.

I have my RCBS resizing die setup as instructed for full length resizing -

First, run the ram to the top of the reloading press stroke with the proper shell holder installed. Second, screw the resizing die into the press until it stops against the elevated shell holder. Third, all play must be removed from the system. To do this, lower the ram and turn the die 1/4 turn farther into the press.

However, I don't think I'm adjusting the shoulder correctly. Brass fired 2 or 3 times becomes very difficult to close the bolt on, I think I'm definitely getting contact.

Am I adjusting incorrectly? I trim all my brass to trim length after resizing.

I was talking with a guy tonight that said this could affect my accuracy pretty big and I needed to measure my headspace/etc.

Any advice?

Have you measured your shoulders of your once fired brass? Then have you measured your resized brass?

I would start there to know how far back to bump the shoulders back. Screw your die down more. I have to do that on my Warbird and my Grendel.

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

I have not, I will. Any old once fired brass will work? And then I want to bump it back .001, right? I'm also curious if my rifle headspace is to spec.

What cartridge are you referring to? If a belted magnum, you may be seeing a bulge of brass forming just ahead of the belt.

ksubuck":2jvzrtue said:

What cartridge are you referring to? If a belted magnum, you may be seeing a bulge of brass forming just ahead of the belt.

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300 wsm

Shoots that theory down. Try blackening a case that won't go and try to chamber it to see where the hangup is?

Another idea, I have one cartridge that I have to leave the press over-cammed for ten seconds or so to make sure that the brass doesn't spring back too much after sizing.

And another cartridge that I had to mill the holder down a touch to let the die touch the shoulder. That was a semi-custom with too little headspace.

ksubuck":2g0b2ctg said:

Another idea, I have one cartridge that I have to leave the press over-cammed for ten seconds or so to make sure that the brass doesn't spring back too much after sizing.

And another cartridge that I had to mill the holder down a touch to let the die touch the shoulder. That was a semi-custom with too little headspace.

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interesting - I'll keep an eye out for those problems!

Bump it at least .002 if your hunting, in case sand or any junk get in there. Why do you need the head space? Buy some tools to measure brass and your OAL. That's all you need. Without knowing your once fired brass, from this rifle, you won't be able to resize your brass properly. Find that out and then we can start to diagnose. It's obvious that you need to screw the die down, from what you have shared.

You just need to know by how much. You can save time and money by just screwing it down easier then having it shaved down, the holder that is.

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

If you dont have a hornady head space measuring tool its a must for understanding the tough case wsms. Not only do you need to know head space for closing the bolt but you may need it to make extraction easier.
For now put a witness mark w/a Sharpie directly over the set screw on your lock ring on the die threads....then turn your die 1/4" that's 1/4"...further in. If that doesn't improve it alot go a tiny bit more. If that doesn't do it you may have to shave the top of your shellholder. 005" or a bit more.

What brand of brass are you using? I have seen a few federal cases that are really hard after 1 firing and need to be annealed to resize them properly.

Sas874runner":ko9juu0j said:

What brand of brass are you using? I have seen a few federal cases that are really hard after 1 firing and need to be annealed to resize them properly.

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You know it's a mixed bag of cheap brass. It's so tough to find and I haven't been inclined to spend more on high end brass. I would say win and remington. I did anneal my 3 times fired brass but haven't reloaded with that yet.

I'm was planning on buying the Hornady headspace bushing today - I already have the kit for measuring ogive. I do not have any once fired brass, my brass is pretty much all fired 3 times at this point. So, if I can't find brass I may need to buy some cheap factory ammo just to once fire... Unless like you guys are saying, I just screw it down more. I am sure I don't want to go too far and have slop is my concern

I always make sure I trim to proper length 1st. Then I adjust the die to where I only size to get almost all the neck, then chamber it. If all is slickity-clickety, I remeasure the OAL of the case and re-trim if needed. Anything beyond that is just asking for problems, as far as I'm concerned. If the case doesn't chamber properly after step #1 I only sightly adjust the die, until it does.

It's been fired to fit your rifle's chamber already, don't over-do what the rifle already is telling you what fits.

Just my $0.02, Thank you. Now go vote. (and drink a beer)

You'll probably see at least another. 004 headspace after annealing on the same die setting you were at before. On the couple 300wsm I loaded for with full power loads they liked at least. 003 headspace or the bolt lift took more effort after firing ....if those big shoulders are rubbing on the front of the chamber it adds to the bolt lift.
Those big thick tough cases are a bit of a challenge.

Another thing, I had an issue previously where I was engaging my shell with the seating die and belling the case - visible to the eye: viewtopic.php?p=305926#p305926.

I fixed it (I thought) by always trimming to trim length, and then setting the seater 1 full turn below contact with the shell.

But, I wonder if I could still be doing that an imperceptible amount. I guess the way to check, would be to resize, chamber. And if it's all good, seat, chamber and see if it's not.

You might be engaging the crimp feature of the seating die...back the die up at least a full turn and lower the seating stem.

I thought I had this figured out and now I don't think I do.

I bought the headspace bushing. I haven't adjusted these numbers for the spacer, just reading straight off the caliper. I don't have once fired brass so working with what I had on hand:

This should be a pretty good sample for my headspace?

Length - Shot Count
2.736 - unknown
2.736 - 2
2.737 - 2
2.735 - 2
2.736 - 2
2.735 - 2
2.735 - unknown
2.739 - 3
2.736 - unknown
2.736 - 4

Now, I measured a group of rounds with bolt resistance chambering -

2.741, 2.739, 2.737, 2.737, 2.738.

So I think I have it figured out, I just need to set it back to 2.735 or 2.734 say?

Then I measure two more loaded rounds and they are 2.731, 2.732.

And the 2.732 gives probably as much resistance as the rest of them. And the 2.731 provides resistance as well, just not as much.

So now I don't know what to think.

Was all this brass fired in your gun?

If this brass was fired in another gun with a more generous chamber it could very well be that your sizing die is not getting it down far enough down by the base.... if you have a really good caliper you might be able to see the ones that are sticking are a little thicker in one spot. Usually when brass is a little thicker down by the base it really tends to lock the bolt up and often you have to tap them with a cleaning rod. You may be to the point of wanting to cover some of the areas on the brass with a magic marker and see if you can see some scratches and see where things are rubbing...
Ps..sometimes on light loads the primer backs out of the primer pocket and throws those measurements out if you haven't got them punched out yet.... the easiest way to tell if they backef out of the case is to set them on a very smooth flat surface and see if they settle down real quick or if they kind of walk around.

kraky1":3lhj97u2 said:

Was all this brass fired in your gun?

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Yep, all fired in my gun.