Pillar Bed Job

[Rem 700]

Hello everyone,
I did a pillar bed job on my Remington 700 7RM using the Score High Deluxe Pillar Bedding kit. After finishing the job my accuracy declined. (I taped the front and sides and back of lug and free floated the barrel...no bedding in the barrel channel in front of the lug.) This is how the rifle shot best (without any contact in front of the lug) before bedding it...that's why I did the bed job that way.
Anyway, the pillars were adjustable, but I don't think I had them as tight to the action as they should have been when I set the length and inserted them into the bedding. The Pillars are actually slightly short and don't fully contact the action when screwed down.
I want to have full contact with the pillars. Can I sand the bedding material around the pillars, or should I remove the bedding and start again?
I have read that for the Rem 700's the pillars really need to be in full contact with the action and the tang and not pull the action down too tight on the bedding stressing the action.
Any thoughts about how to proceed?
Thanks.

 

[SJB358]

Just add glass to the top of the pillars so they make contact with the action. Won't hurt a thing and should allow a good mating surface for action contact.

 

[Oldtrader3]

Or you can scrape your way down to the pillars in the action bed by removing the wood. This would assure full contact. I guess it is your choice? Fiber glass would work for awhile but it will eventually compress and change your bedding bearing on the pillars. The only way that I would trust fiberglass to do this job would be to fill it with aluminum powder and make it nearly a solid. Just my $.02.

The other way would be to bed a small washer on top of the pillar to take up the slack. This would be preferable by my conservative way of doing things in order to assure metal to metal contact.

 

[pre6422hornet]

Either Scotty's or Charlie's way would work.

 

[Charlie-NY]

QUOTE: I taped the front and sides and back of lug

I'm not a gunsmith but a recoil lug should never be taped in the "back". Normally they are taped on the front, sides and bottom. This is done, in part, to facilitate removal of the barreled action from the stock. The back should be in firm and consistent contact with the bedding material that you put in the recoil lug mortise.

 

[RiverRider]

Good catch, Charlie, and you are right! The back side of the recoil lug should be in solid contact with your bedding job.

 

[Rem 700]

I'm sorry. Your right, but I miss spoke. I meant to say that I taped the front, sides and "bottom" not "back". If I add some bedding on top of the pillars, won't it be too thin to hold and won't the pillar just crush it. If not, this might be the easiest way.

 

[Rem Jim]

Just add glass to the top of the pillars so they make contact with the action. Won't hurt a thing and should allow a good mating surface for action contact.

I completely agree and make sure there is only rear lug contact no side -front or bottom of the lug ! :grin: Good Luck RJ

 

[Rem Jim]

I'm sorry. Your right, but I miss spoke. I meant to say that I taped the front, sides and "bottom" not "back". If I add some bedding on top of the pillars, won't it be too thin to hold and won't the pillar just crush it. If not, this might be the easiest way.

I use Devcon and its very TUFF - i don't think it will crush. You don't need to cinch it so tight ! :shock: RJ

 

[SJB358]

Or you can scrape your way down to the pillars in the action bed by removing the wood. This would assure full contact. I guess it is your choice? Fiber glass would work for awhile but it will eventually compress and change your bedding bearing on the pillars. The only way that I would trust fiberglass to do this job would be to fill it with aluminum powder and make it nearly a solid. Just my $.02.

The other way would be to bed a small washer on top of the pillar to take up the slack. This would be preferable by my conservative way of doing things in order to assure metal to metal contact.

Charlies spot on here. Perfect place to use Steel Bed or Devcon so it cannot compress over time.

 

[Rem 700]

Thanks for all the advice. Since I don't have Steel Bed or Devcon on hand, I think I will try sanding the bedding down around the pillars. If the causes a bad pressure point I will try adding Devcon. I'll give you an update next week when I get a chance to shoot. First bed job so I really appreciate the help.

 

[SJB358]

You'll be fine. Acra Gel or glass is very forgiving.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I Accraglass doesn't do it, try a washer with glass under it.

 

[Rem 700]

Update: tried shaving down the bedding to insure full contact with the pillars, but no change. Groups are still subpar. I'm convinced there must be a pressure pint somewhere thatis causing problems and I just can't identify it. I'm going to shave the glass out and rebed.
Thanks for all your help.

 

[SJB358]

Update: tried shaving down the bedding to insure full contact with the pillars, but no change. Groups are still subpar. I'm convinced there must be a pressure pint somewhere thatis causing problems and I just can't identify it. I'm going to shave the glass out and rebed.
Thanks for all your help.

Re bed the pillars, then after it is dry, skim bed the entire rest of the action.. That'll ensure your entire action is supported, but the pillars are taking the majority of the TQ..

 

[elkeater2]

Make sure there is no guard screw contact with the stock at all.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Update: tried shaving down the bedding to insure full contact with the pillars, but no change. Groups are still subpar. I'm convinced there must be a pressure pint somewhere thatis causing problems and I just can't identify it. I'm going to shave the glass out and rebed.
Thanks for all your help.

Re bed the pillars, then after it is dry, skim bed the entire rest of the action.. That'll ensure your entire action is supported, but the pillars are taking the majority of the TQ..

I'd agree. You might have to buy a new set of pillars to do it right, but it just has to be re-done.

 

[rick smith]

You shouldn't use a flat washer under the 700 action. Flat washer under a rounded action and you will not have full contact on the action. Have had to correct that type of problem. I would remove the pillars and start again. You would not have to remove all the bedding, make the new pillars the height of the current bedding and skim bed.Rick.

 

[Rem 700]

Ok...how would suggest removing the pillars? Do I need to drill them out or can I remove them by removing the epoxy surrounding the pillars? It sounds like the consensus is that using the t-handle to bed the pillars and the action in one step may have caused stress in the pillars when compress with the t-handles to the floor plate and trigger guard. Am I understanding that right? If so, I think I will reinstall the pillars first before bedding the action using tubing rather than screws when curing in both processes.

 

[rick smith]

Drill out the old pillars, go slow or you will induce heat. If the pillars are the correct length, you can use the action screws to insure the action is straight with the stock. Don't over tighten them. after the bedding cures, drill out any excess bedding inside the pillars.Rick.