300WM Elk in Timber Crusher?

preacher

Handloader
Aug 19, 2012
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For jumping up elk in dark timber, where one may have to drive a bullet on a hard angle ( or even up the keister!) what weight and bullet make, and how fast would break a lot of bone, penetrate? I can only "assume" what it would take as all three cow elk I've taken have been broadside and all were in fairly open to wide open. This in itself is kind of rare in the timber. I'd like your opinions, especially you Northern moose, bear, big Northern deer hunters! :)
 
If it were me in than scenario I would carry my 9.3x62 with 286 grain swift a frames. But I'm sure there are plenty of calibers, and projectiles that would accomplish the job.

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The short answer is any heavy for caliber Partition 6mm on up. I grew up learning to jump shoot elk in the spruce-fir elk jungles, more than half of the elk I have killed were at less than 75 yds--a number of them at less than 30 yds. I have two 243's that have killed 14 elk between them. I wasn't always the shooter but I have witnessed all the kills. Six of those were 50 yds or less. I have three 270's that have around two dozen elk to their credit, majority of the kills less than 100 yds, two I can recall at about 20 yds.

The thing is, I have never hunted elk in the dark timber where there wasn't at least some small chance of a long shot in the open, and I've never hunted elk in open country when there wasn't a chance at encountering elk at short range in the timber.

I learned to subscribe to the general purpose rifle........

This year I will be hunting the elk jungles, but always a chance I may have to make that shot across a draw or small canyon. I'll be carrying a light, sub 7lb rifle in 270W that is set up for quick handling but I also practice a lot out to 500 yds (which is a very long shot under field conditions and one I don't take lightly).

Although there are lots of high BC bullets that will kill elk, I still use Partitions because my experience has been they behave the most consistently across the widest range of velocities.

220 and 200 gr in 30 cal, 175 gr in 7mm, and 160 gr in 270 are generally thought to be some of the best penetrating Partitions.
 
Alpine- its the same where I hunt them, could be close, could be across a draw. Its why I like flat shooters. :)

Its been 20yrs since I hunted with a 300WM, and then we used a Barnes 180 xbt. It was a penetrator on Plains game, and a flat shooter. Of course, later in life, I had a 300 RUM made up for my returning Marine SIL from Iraq, 2002. I used Retumbo and the 200 AccuBond for 3100fps ( or so close) anyhow, he killed a nice cow a tad over 440 yds ( he put one of those dialamatic Huskemaw scopes on it) it blew right on through her, spread chunks the other side. But I don't know that it would hold up on a close shot when started out past 2900 from my WinMag. My 150 TTSX is a screamer, but for this one area I like to go, I'm leaning toward 200-220PT or 200PP Woodleigh.
 
My SIL has some 200 PT on hand. I am going to give them and R26 a whirl..."after" I put my muzzle brake back on this Mesa! :)
 
preacher":1gsfpfmh said:
For jumping up elk in dark timber, where one may have to drive a bullet on a hard angle ( or even up the keister!) what weight and bullet make, and how fast would break a lot of bone, penetrate? I can only "assume" what it would take as all three cow elk I've taken have been broadside and all were in fairly open to wide open. This in itself is kind of rare in the timber. I'd like your opinions, especially you Northern moose, bear, big Northern deer hunters! :)
>>>>.338WM with 250 partion. 225 for all around work. I had a 225 hit a running bull in the pelvis and stop him on the spot ! Quick follow up shot finished the job in seconds.
 
Heavy hard cast 45-70 with a large meplat at 1700-1900 fps. It will crush bone and give you 4-5’ of penetration. If it doesn’t impact bone expect 5-6’ of penetration. I know it’s not a 300WM like you asked about but at those close ranges velocity isn’t your friend if you want deep reliable penetration.
 
I used to use the 338 magnums ( Win, 340Wby, RUM) but don't hunt enough bigger animals anymore so sold/traded them off. I stopped playing with the heavy 45-70 and 444 Marlin loads after my left retina tore ( non shooting related :)) I can shoot this 300WM Mesa w/o a brake real easy, but I've only worked up to some stout 150gr TTSX. It has a removable muzzle brake, which I would put on for the 200-220s. I've had some 30-06s and one 308 ultralight that kicked far worse than a 300WM! wow! :) ha
 
Just me but shooting an elk directly in the butt doesn’t seem like a high percentage shot. Wounded, for sure to put an outbound animal down but I’d prefer not to skin that animal...

Saying that, I’m with AlpineCrick and the others, anything from a hard 150 mono up to a 200 Partition or AccuBond will go corner to corner on any elk from what I’ve seen.
 
This mission sounds like the near perfect scenario for the .338WM if you can shoot it.....
Ditto on it being a classic case for either the 35 Whelen or .338/06 .with 250gr bullets, without the recoil of the WMs.....
For the 300WM the 220gr Nosler has a flawless record. But alot of guides in Alaska have used 220gr
Corelokts for 50 years on big moose, brown bears,
with stellar results. I used 220 Hornadys from a 300H&H for both and never had an issue.
A common 30/06 with 180gr bullets will go straight
thru a 7/800 lb Grizzly if hit just behind the shoulder.(poor place to hit one: But lots of them get shot there)
It usually wont end for end em, but a 220 will.
You have lots of gun for a big bull elk in the timber,
Try one exiting the scene with a 220gr bullet and chances are you will get a chance to see it next to your potatoes n gravy!
E
 
This Mesa/24" barrel ( w/o the brake) is a tad lighter than the last 338WM I had. I do OK with a longer barrel, being tall, but the area I like to hunt is pretty mixed. I don't go real deep into the dark timber unless there is a good game trail. For one, I'm older/stiffer now, harder to be quiet moving over/under down timber, ha. I do like to take two rifles on any hunt, so I could make one a shorter/lighter faster handling rifle, w/o it being a hard kicker.
That 22" Mod 700 Classic 35 WAI and 250X was not a mean kicker, not after I had a Decelerator Pad installed. I like Limbsavers better now. I am going to see how well this Mesa can shoot the 200PTs, and make a decision from there. Thanks guys.
 
SJB358 said:
Just me but shooting an elk directly in the butt doesn’t seem like a high percentage shot.

I don't mind driving a bullet from a hard angle ( on unwounded) but with them jumping around, and everything moving fast, they could "run into the path of a bullet" and hit the bum. It would not be my first choice either, ha.

I find this Mesa to be pretty handy, not a featherweight, but Sporter weight. I have used similar rifles in tight cover before, it doesn't bother me. One thing I never cared about a 45-70/444 was the very fact of range, as it is a possibility for a 300yd shot, etc. I like the "idea" of that little Ruger 20" 338 RCM ( 338-06 level) and a low pered scope. I only handled one, used at Cabela's a couple years ago. It had a humongous, 30mm big heavy scope on it. (a) which made the price ridiculous and (b) made the rifle a club! I couldn't tell if the rifle itself was light. Anyone know?
But, I'm going to try a lot of different bullets in this Mesa, just to see what it likes and give me something to do! Lord only knows what I'll end up with for a second rifle ( I like a back-up spare). :)
 
Well, I have the 200PTs in hand, and I am going to 'start out" working up some loads "without that loud muzzlebrake"! I'll report back how the rifle did...and how hard it kicked. I really want to "leave the rifle alone" as it shoots like a champ now, with 4 different loads shooting into the same "zero" at 100. I don't expect it to be uncontrollable, maybe not pleasant, but....:) :(
 
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