Cleaning flash holes

I really don’t know if it makes a difference but quite a bit of material is removed.


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When I started using the stainless steel pin wet tumbler, the need and urge to clean flash holes went away. Cases are clean inside and out. Before that, I cleaned them. I think opening the flash hole is more important.


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Not sure it makes a difference either but I now do it because it's a once and done deal. The only brass I think it had to make a difference on was a bag of Winchester because like you it removed a lot of material getting them prepped and when I shown a light down in the cases prior to deburring, most of them looked like they had stalactites hanging off the case web at the flash hole. Bad enough that it stopped the cutter on some of the cases until I got the worst of the burrs knocked off.

By cleaning do you mean removing the burrs on the inside of the case that is a result of punching the flash holes? If this is what you are talking about it makes a BIG difference for me. Just doing this to every case has vastly improved accuracy for me in a number of cases. Doing this allows the primer fire to ignite the powder charge in a uniform manner which makes a uniform burn which improves accuracy.
Oh! You do not need to do this with Lapua because they drill their flash holes and it leaves no burrs.

It by cleaning the flash hole means removing tumble media then yes it makes a big difference because if the flash hole is block it will not go BOOM. I use one of the old Lee hammer type de-priming tools to poke any media out of the flash hole and I check every case.

mjcmichigan":b45pvoc0 said:

When I started using the stainless steel pin wet tumbler, the need and urge to clean flash holes went away. Cases are clean inside and out. Before that, I cleaned them. I think opening the flash hole is more important.


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For me, cleaning is not removing the burrs.

Removing burrs is important to consistent ignition .

The stainless media cleans the brass beautifully, including primer pockets.


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Let's keep it simple. A quick look into the cases with light on a light, preferably white background will show which flash holes are plugged. A quick run with a universal decapping die and no more clogs. I've gotten to the point where I can do about 100 rounds in 15 to 20 minutes and that's taking my time.
Paul B.

I always "uniform" the flash holes on new brass, I use a RCBS tool which removes the burrs and I believe bevels the flash hole also.

I use a "uniformer" also. I use it to remove the small radius at the bottom of the primer cup. The radius keeps your primer close to the surface of the case. When you rub your finger across it you can often feel the primer high in places. After using the uniformer the primer will always be just below the surface.
Some say you get better ignition also as the primer is seated fully against the bottom of the pocket.