Sling swivel help....

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Anonymous

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Here's the situation...I carry a slung rifle more than most people. My hunting generally requires a lot of hiking in open mountainous country and a weekend might see 20+ miles.

As a result- the front swivels studs are all "loose" and seem to spin freely and more often than I'd like. In a synthetic stocked rifle I can't just swap out the stud to fixed type type.

How well will Loctite hold up? I know that the "red" is pretty much permanent and requires a tool to remove in smaller sizes and a torch in larger, the blue breaks loose behind and isn't up to the task... I've even thought of using a two part epoxy to fix it.

Basically, I want the stud to not rotate at all. Anyone had any luck with a similar issue?
 
I’ve been really impressed with the flush cup style I have on my manners elite


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Thebear_78":3o8bnesw said:
I’ve been really impressed with the flush cup style I have on my manners elite


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How hard would that be to retrofit that into an existing stock? I like it, a lot- but it looks like it would require some mods to the stocks.
 
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I don’t think it would be too bad, just drill out an appropriate hole and epoxy in the cup. The side mount is pretty handy but I don’t see why you couldn’t put them in the same location as the original sling stud


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Thanks...I'd likely want a gunsmith to install that rather than DIY. I could easily see that on a number of my rifles.
 
I would probably but a layer or two of blue masking tape over the area to be drilled, drill the hole specified with the cup you go with, and epoxy in place. I might have to get a set for that 458 Lott I just finished. That flush cup would be handy, nothing worse than catching a swivel stud in your hand while shooting a big kicker.


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Don’t sell yourself short hodgeman. I’m sure you could do it yourself. What type of stock are you thinking about having done?


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I used rocksett to glue in the studs on my 300 Rum. I have aluminum blocks in the stock that the studs screw into. Probably need epoxy for the wood screw type studs


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I'm thinking the stocks on my Nosler and my Barrett. The Nosler is (most likely) an MPI and the Barrett is a NULA.

Both ultralight Kevlar and resin types.

Of course they are machine thread studs ran into a backing plate, I might try rocksett
 
If the threaded stem of the stud screws threw the backing plate you could use a center punch and stake the threads so they won't unscrew also if they are on the for-end if in the butt you will have to epoxy them.
 
I used a hot melt epoxy that is typically used for affixing inserts into archery shafts. It is permanent, fills gaps well, and has a much lower melt point than red Loctite. It will get soft enough to work loose just above the boiling point.
 
You could also have Model 70 super grade style studs installed. Wish I could paste a picture, but they are the type that are usually inletted into the stock and secured with two screws, one on either side of the stud. That might be more secure.

Those cup style ones on bear's stock look pretty military grade indestructible though. They look right at home on a synthetic stock. Don't know if I could put one on a nice walnut stock though.
 
BretN":2ttcrre6 said:
You could also have Model 70 super grade style studs installed. Wish I could paste a picture, but they are the type that are usually inletted into the stock and secured with two screws, one on either side of the stud. That might be more secure.

Those cup style ones on bear's stock look pretty military grade indestructible though. They look right at home on a synthetic stock. Don't know if I could put one on a nice walnut stock though.

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I had a front stud screw come loose on a McMillian stock. I just unscrewed it, mixed up some JB Weld epoxy and put it in the hole. Then I screwed the stud back in the hole making sure to properly align it. I never had a problem after that. JB Weld is slow set epoxy. It takes about 24 hours to fully cure, but is much stronger than quick set epoxy. Carbon inserts for arrow building never became popular because the tend to break loose. Not with slow set epoxy.
 
Yep, those are the ones I was thinking of Bear. I was on Midway looking for something else yesterday and they have a set in the white for $13-14. I guess if I were using that style, I'd use machine screws and locknuts instead of screws on the front stud just to make certain it stayed put.

I also liked the idea of using JB Weld (or some other bedding compound like Marinetex) to repair and re-secure the existing stud. Might get you another season, or it might fix it permanently. It would be low cost, low risk and you could always try the other options later.
 
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