Model 70 set up.

ShadeTree

Handloader
Mar 6, 2017
3,515
3,019
Minus the sling. I really enjoyed this project overall and think I learned some things that will stick with me when I go to re-finish the next stock or finish a raw wood stock on a build.

I took Scotty's advice and used steel wool to knock down the high gloss, except instead of using 000, I first sanded it with 600 grit sandpaper, and then used super fine 0000 steel wool with wax as a final finish and then rubbed it out with single nap cotton flannel.

Then end result is a warm glow type satin finish that when you run your hand along it feels as smooth as butter. Probably if I'd of had the 000 Scotty suggested I would've used that first for smoothing and knocking the finish down, then used the super fine 0000 and cotton flannel after that.

Hard to believe some of the neat grain that was underneath that factory Winchester red stain. I don't know what the proper terms are, but there's some darker streaks and flecking in amongst the predominant grain color on both sides of the butt stock. The whole procedure of what you might end up with kinda fascinates me.









 
Yes, the stock looks real nice.

Some of the factory finishes conceal some real nice looking walnut. Marlin was famous for that a few years back. They'd actually use some real nice walnut, then cover it with a dark stain. Sigh.. Some folks who refinished their Marlins were able to show off some very nice wood grain.

And I can't believe some of the stocks I've seen on Winchester Model 70's in the past ten years or so. Most are pretty utilitarian, but there are some gorgeous stocks on some of those rifles! We've seen some posted here that are terrific!

Guy
 
Looks great ST. The 000 synthetic are actually pads. The reason I’ve used those more recently is because with real steel wool bits of it break off and get caught in the pores then will/can rust.

Another member used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers and those worked excellent for knocking down the shine as well.
 
You uncovered a gem hiding underneath the old stain. Sad they do that! When my grandmother passed away quite a few years ago I got to keep some of her stuff that I wanted. I found an old rocking chair in really good condition that was painted a hideous bright color. I just knew there was something there underneath hiding. My father wanted to do a project for me so he stripped it down and found that this chair had been stained and then painted probably 15 different times. It took him forever to get down to the wood.

Once he got it stripped there was revealed a solid oak rocking chair. Dad carefully refinished the chair and it's gorgeous.
 
SJB358":12xevqln said:
Looks great ST. The 000 synthetic are actually pads. The reason I’ve used those more recently is because with real steel wool bits of it break off and get caught in the pores then will/can rust.

Another member used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers and those worked excellent for knocking down the shine as well.


Scotty, correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that only be an issue when or if you're sanding between coats? Pores are all sealed up on this and the finish was cured so this was just the final rub on top.
 
ShadeTree":16qczbj8 said:
SJB358":16qczbj8 said:
Looks great ST. The 000 synthetic are actually pads. The reason I’ve used those more recently is because with real steel wool bits of it break off and get caught in the pores then will/can rust.

Another member used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers and those worked excellent for knocking down the shine as well.


Scotty, correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that only be an issue when or if you're sanding between coats? Pores are all sealed up on this and the finish was cured so this was just the final rub on top.

Yeah, it’s usually a between coats problem ST. I think what you did was spot on really. Makes that rifle look amazing.
 
SJB358":1mnn1bf5 said:
ShadeTree":1mnn1bf5 said:
SJB358":1mnn1bf5 said:
Looks great ST. The 000 synthetic are actually pads. The reason I’ve used those more recently is because with real steel wool bits of it break off and get caught in the pores then will/can rust.

Another member used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers and those worked excellent for knocking down the shine as well.


Scotty, correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that only be an issue when or if you're sanding between coats? Pores are all sealed up on this and the finish was cured so this was just the final rub on top.

Yeah, it’s usually a between coats problem ST. I think what you did was spot on really. Makes that rifle look amazing.

Thanks. Only downside to the whole deal is I used to just grab that rifle and go. I already can tell I'm 3 times more carefull with it than I was before. Ha. Eventually it will get marked up but for now I'm gonna baby it a lil.
 
Anybody know if there's a proper name for what you see on those darker grain streaks that run perpendicular to the grain? You can see a couple of them an 1/2" or so wide on the cheek piece that show up a little better on the top picture.

Also the bottom pic on the right side of the stock. The camera highlighted it more than it normally is at a glance, but that's not a shadow you see but a clustered band of darker small snake like streaks running perpendicular to the grain that all together make up a strip about 2" wide.
 
Thanks all. Looking at these pictures I realize again why I'm not a big fan of see thru mounts, I don't like the way they look and I've never had to use them but that's the way my FIL had it so that's the way it will stay.

2 places I didn't do as well as I could've on. I was careful not to round off the edge or change the shape at the end of the butt stock when wet sanding, but at the expense of not completely eliminating some smaller dents and imperfections right on the very edge. Nothing big that stands out at a glance but in hindsight the right way would've been to keep the butt plate on when sanding so there would be no worries about that.

Also right next to the checkering in some of those V's. I was careful not to wet sand into the checkering so I was a bit timid at some of those spots. If I look down across the stock in good light I can see some spots underneath up in some of those V's where I hadn't wet sanded the same as the rest of the stock. Things to pay more attention to next time.
 
I believe we all see things that can be improved after a job. Still, that work was excellent. You have every right to be proud of your labour--it looks great. The craftsman's eye will see many things that no one else can see, unless he was to point it out.
 
Beautiful. My technique on the glossy Remington stock is to glove up with nitrile gloves, dip some red Scotchbrite in polyurethane and scrub it out. This leaves the heavy coat that Remington puts on which is nice for its sealing value but knocks it down to a very nice satin finish. Very easy to do.
 
gbflyer":gh7wgydu said:
Beautiful. My technique on the glossy Remington stock is to glove up with nitrile gloves, dip some red Scotchbrite in polyurethane and scrub it out. This leaves the heavy coat that Remington puts on which is nice for its sealing value but knocks it down to a very nice satin finish. Very easy to do.

I did it on my 700 BDL using just 0000 steel wool and very gentle scrubbing. (rubbing?) These some Pledge and a wipe down. Looks good and the stock sealing is maintained. Now I have to wonder if there is a place in town that does something like Cerakote?
Paull B.
 
Looks nice. I have a question I want to refinish my Model 70 but for hunting I had put a gun wax on it would this be a problem when refinishing ?
If I wanted to freshen up checkering what tool to buy as in lines per inch ?
 
1100 Remington Man":o9jfthzy said:
Looks nice. I have a question I want to refinish my Model 70 but for hunting I had put a gun wax on it would this be a problem when refinishing ?
If I wanted to freshen up checkering what tool to buy as in lines per inch ?

Yes and no. Yes in the fact that the only thing that will adhere and blend into wax is more wax. So you need to get all the wax off so the finish you choose can evenly do its job. I would advise looking up the best ways to remove wax. Mineral spirits should work for cleaning it off, but there might be better methods.

You could also get it removed with paint stripper if that's how you're removing the old finish. Problem with that is that while your wiping off the dissolved finish with a rag or cloth you are bound to be wiping some of the wax in the mixture into the pores of the wood. Same way with sanding. Along with removing the finish you will be grinding some of that wax into open fibers and pores in the wood.

Bottom line if I was doing it is before I actually stripped the old finish off with whatever method, I would just make sure I had all the wax removed first, and you shouldn't have any problems.
 
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