Savage Axis.

Couple weeks ago I picked up a Savage Axis chambered in 308 pretty much to try and make a couple dollars on it. Looks new and came with a picatinny scope rail, sling swivels and sling.

I quickly discovered the worst thing about the Axis out of the box is the trigger. Heavy at 5 plus lbs, gritty and creepy, and gobs of overtravel.

I put an overtravel screw in it and a lighter spring. It then broke at 3.5 lbs, way better but still far from a great trigger overall in the feel.

I then stoned the trigger until I was satisfied, and polished it, and polished only, the sear. With that same lighter spring in it, it now broke at 2lbs. Too light.

Got another lighter than factory spring and cut it accordingly. Also dealt with the .030 side slop in the trigger. I took 2 washers and sanded them down to .013-.014 each, and installed them on each side of the trigger hinge pin between the trigger and housing.

I tested it dozens of times with a wheeler trigger gauge and it breaks between 2lbs 10 ounces, and 2lbs 12 ounces. Snaps off without creep or overtravel. With the safety off, it will not trip by slamming the action shut, or butting the stock against the floor, or hitting the butt repeatedly with a rubber mallet.

The price difference with the axis II is the accutrigger. A timney for the axis costs $120.00. I'd need a side by side comparison to prove either would feel as good or better.

I'm afraid to shoot it. I bet a dollar to donuts it'll shoot and for what I paid for it I'll be tempted to keep it! :grin:

I bought one in 223 for my daughter (pink camo), and you're right that the only bad thing is the trigger. I have tweaked it but not gotten it as low as you describe. Perhaps I should try again.

It shoots extremely well, but given the option I'd try for something else with a better trigger next time.

Dr. Vette":3g75mghc said:

I bought one in 223 for my daughter (pink camo), and you're right that the only bad thing is the trigger. I have tweaked it but not gotten it as low as you describe. Perhaps I should try again.

It shoots extremely well, but given the option I'd try for something else with a better trigger next time.

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Dr Vette, I've come to discover that with a lot of triggers the spring is second or third on the list of what's creating the overall feel and weight. This thing basically had 3.5 lbs of trigger to sear engagement weight with NO spring in it. That and the side slop doesn't contribute to consistency.

If you're comfortable with it, I just used the fine side of a sharpening stone, and used a magnifying glass to carefully look at the factory angle. Go easy with light even strokes, then test if necessary. A little bit goes a LONG way. Polishing you can't hardly hurt it if you're using fine polish, but stoning you can go too far. Like I said, the sear I polished only, no stoning.

The side slop take a small washer that will fit the trigger hinge pin, and they usually vary .005-.010 in thickness. Find one that takes the slop out on one side and still allows the trigger to come back. Measure the thickness then split that in half for 2 washers. I used a block of wood with a small hole drilled shallow to hold the washer, then took a dremel with a round grinding stone and vertically ground the washer's down with the flat on the end of the grinding stone. Going slow and periodically measuring the thickness until I had them between .013-.014. A .030 washer on one side was near perfect on this gun so the 2 washers at that thickness take out the side slop while allowing for a small amount of clearance.

Kinda fun when $5 in parts gives you a $100 trigger! :grin:

P.S. The thread pattern tapped into that trigger is 10-24. A 3/4" hex head bolt was just right turned all the way in until the base of the head is against the trigger. That still allowed the trigger enough movement to trip, but soon as it does it's against the bottom of that bolt. Perfect. I used some of my wife's red nail polish at the top of the threads before tightening it down, to prevent it from working loose.