Suppressors for hunting in WA and other questions

Lots of shooters at the range are using suppressors these days.
It is legal in Washington state to use them now for targets and it sounds like for hunting too?
I haven't seen any hunters with cans on their guns. Anyone confirm?

Since they are spendy and a slow process to purchase, I am thinking about getting just one for use on more than one rifle. Some of the 30 cal versions can be used on smaller calibers. Some just screw on, some attach to a muzzle break. Is there a disadvantage for buying a screw on version and switching between rifles? Does it take time for a "locktite" to dry or special tools to tighten just right or sight in each time? How does that all work? Can you do it at the range? Does it change point of impact much?

Would love to have one on my 308 carbine for hunting.

Any 30 cal suppressor can be used on my smaller caliber providing it is threaded to accept said can. I suggest you get one of the suppressor that mount to a brake as they will return to zero when switching rom rifle to rifle. Direct thread suppressor is best for a screw it on and leave it situation.

I have a thunderbeast ultra 9 CB. It mounts to the brake or flash hider. Any rifle that has a CB brake can be quickly swapped from one to another. This makes it nice as the brakes can be grease to different pitch but all work with the same suppressor. The CB brakes can be had for 1/2-28, 5/8-24, and a host of less popular pitches to match available barrels on the market.


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I’m interested in this as well. I know they’re spendy as well so how well do they work on a big game rifle? Say 30-06,270,7 mag class. I’m sure they aren’t silent and don’t expect that but, is it worth it?


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My thunder east makes 308 hearing safe. It also makes it much more pleasant to shoot. It was worth every penny and minute of waiting.


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I started using them once I moved to a free state. I use both direct thread and QD suppressors on rimfires, handguns, and centerfire rifles from .223 to .458 SOcOM.

A direct thread can is a good choice if you do not expect to need to remove/attach it quickly and often. Many direct thread suppressors can be "timed" so you have consistent POIs; check the manuals.
The ones using QD adapters allow for quick detach (obviously) but require additional investments for the QD adapters. Depending upon manufacturers, you can "time" these as well.

Suppressors do nothing to silence the crack of a supersonic bullet. They reduce the report at the muzzle and your ear, and make it omnidirectional.

Game can't seem to figure out where the noise originated and may not associate it with a gunshot. Follow-up shots are possible if the game doesn't run off.

Worth it? Yes, as far as i am concerned. The wait truly sucks and is another way for bureaucrats to mess with us. They're pricey, at least for magnum-class suppressors, but they'll last practically forever.

However, the ability to shoot a .223 Rem. or .308 Win. without damaging your hearing is a big plus.

George

Thanks on the info and sorry for the hijack. Good information.

Thebear_78":1djehkl0 said:

Any 30 cal suppressor can be used on my smaller caliber providing it is threaded to accept said can. I suggest you get one of the suppressor that mount to a brake as they will return to zero when switching rom rifle to rifle. Direct thread suppressor is best for a screw it on and leave it situation.

I have a thunderbeast ultra 9 CB. It mounts to the brake or flash hider. Any rifle that has a CB brake can be quickly swapped from one to another. This makes it nice as the brakes can be grease to different pitch but all work with the same suppressor. The CB brakes can be had for 1/2-28, 5/8-24, and a host of less popular pitches to match available barrels on the market.


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Click to expand...

Lots of wrong in this post.....

1. If you want to use it on multiple rifles, including those of sub-caliber.... a direct thread is the only way to go. That way you don’t have to put brakes on every rifle you want to shoot it on.... that can get very expensive. Plus, we all know brakes do the opposite of a suppressor.... I don’t want a brake on guns I may shoot unsuppressed. The specific brakes for individual suppressors can run you $75-$200 EACH.... I shoot my cans on a dozen different guns... no way am I dropping a G on “brakes” that I don’t want/need... just so I can use the can.

2. Direct Thread (DT) can be used on thread sizes smaller than the can.... all you need is a simple (cheap) adapter. I have a 5/8”x24-1/2”x28 adapter... I use it all the time when running the .30 can on the .223’s. The adapters are $25-$50..... and you only need one.

3. I’ve yet to see a Thread-Over Brake Mounted (TOMB) suppressor not slightly change POI.... just like a direct thread does. The good news is.... it’s always a predictable shift (with both DT and TOMB)... so compensating for it is a simple matter of noting the change. With both my cans, and all my rifles, the POI shift when running suppressed is about .5 MILs (2 MOAish).

4. I move my Direct Thread cans all the time.... it takes about 10 seconds. I don’t know anyone who’s bought a DT suppressor and with they’d gone TOMB.... but I know several guys that went TOMB, and wish they wouldn’t have.

Don’t know the WA rules. I only have direct thread and an integral, no experience with the others. I move the direct thread between several barrels from .22 rimfire to 300 Win mag. Easy peasy. POI shift varies between different barrels but is repeatable. I just note it somewhere and ride on.

We all have them over here in UK for hunting with thay are great alot quieter you can get more huntin done ya don't spock ever deer for mile's

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