S&W Lock....overblown or not?

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I've done more work with my 329 in the last month than I've done with it since I bought it.

I've had a couple other S&Ws with the lock that worked just fine...but they were heavy stainless guns that mostly shot .38s. What's got me wondering is the 329 seems to be at the root of the rumors about the locks inadvertently engaging during recoil- since this is a bear gun...that's just unacceptable.

I found a kit that will replace it, but wonder if it's really that much of a real issue.

I did see some chatter about legal liability when you remove the lock, but i genuinely doubt grizzly bears will sue in court. If the lock issue isn't overblown...the legal part certainly is.

Anyone with any experience?
 
Since I put less than 30 rounds through my Model 57 in 3 years, on a single trip to the range, and had no issues, I cannot say.
I did have for sale for a bit, and some of the guys asking were pointedly refusing to buy once they found it had the lock, but would give no reason other than they heard the earlier ones were better. Not one of them had fired one with a lock.
Did sell the revolver this morning to a gent that did know it had the lock and did not mind.
 
Just remove it, I filled one with a plug and just removed the lock on another. It’s not nessessary anyway

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I have the 642PD, no issues, a lot of rounds through it, and a 629, literally thousands of rounds through it.

The only thing I’ve seen on the S&W, if you short stroke the trigger, it will index the tumbler, but not fire. Nothing to do with the lock. Both are about 12 years old.


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The 329s and 500s were prone to setting the luck under recoil. It’s just a dumb system to have on the revolver in the first place. Pull it out or plug the whole and never look back


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Thebear_78":3i7g8l1q said:
The 329s and 500s were prone to setting the luck under recoil. It’s just a dumb system to have on the revolver in the first place. Pull it out or plug the whole and never look back

That's the direction I'm leaning, I did find a source for plug kits to fill the hole. I hate the S&W lock about as much as I hate the safety on newer Marlins. They're pointless and run contrary to the manual of arms that's been around for those designs since the 19th century. In fact, they're contrary to their purpose- using either could very well be more dangerous by giving a false sense of security.

On previous guns, I simply ignored it- but there's enough chatter about them locking up 329s with hot loads that ditching it is probably the prudent thing to do.
 
The one in my 329 was a hide density plastic plug. It didn’t look too bad. I’ve put a bunch of those plugs in and it’s simple and doesn’t look any worse than the lock did.




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Thebear_78":358ydwl7 said:
The one in my 329 was a hide density plastic plug. It didn’t look too bad. I’ve put a bunch of those plugs in and it’s simple and doesn’t look any worse than the lock did.

Do you have a source for the plastic plugs? I found a guy making them in SS and Ti...but the prices match. A $5 plastic plug would work as well as $50 Ti unit!
 
If I remember right the lactic plug was still $35.

This is the link I saved regarding them. It’s been a while but wouldn’t hurt to email him.

“If you want to contact me PLEASE E-mail me at : wjohnwitt@aol.com, Please don't use the forum system to contact me. Main reason is that I use you e-mail and real name to do my work, I just don't have time to try and figure who is writing me. Plus Please don't ask me to Tex you, I don't know how or care how to do it. Thanks for your time, John


"The PLUG". They come in Three Sizes - "J - Frame", "K/L/N - Frames" and the "X - Frame".

The finishes and codes are as follows:

J/BS = J frame with a Semi-Bright Stainless Finish
J/BB = J frame with a Bead Blast Stainless Finish
J/BD = J frame made with Black Delrin

N/BS = K/L/N frames with a Semi-Bright Stainless Finish
N/BB = K/L/N frames with a Bead Blast Stainless Finish
N/BD = K/L/N frames made with Black Delrin

X/BS = X frame with a Semi-Bright Stainless Finish
X/BB = X frame with a Bead Blast Stainless Finish
X/BD = X frame made with Black Delrin


COST & PAYMENT:

**Cost is $35 Dollars with PayPal (or a Check) for the First one, Second one is $30.00, Third is half price $15.00, fourth is $30 and the fifth is half price again, and so on.


**Your Plug with PayPal (or Check) will have Insurance and Tracking along with being shipped by Priority Mail. Reason - PayPal Says I have to, to be covered for lost. Plus I am having a lost rate of four to five units a month - that I remake and ship at my cost to keep everyone happy. The order will ship within two to four working day weeks of order, I have been flooded a few time that it took 5+ weeks. Most time I check my e-mail every two or three days, so don't get upset if I don't answer right fast. If I'm on the computer a lot that is less plugs being made.

PAYPAL Address is: wjohnwitt@aol.comPlease E-mail me at the same address for Questions. Thanks, John

If you have problems with the installment E-Mail me at the above Address.

Send checks and money orders to:

John Whitt
3550 US Hwy #1, Lot # 67
Mims , Fl 32754”


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I bought a 442 a few years ago for concealed carry. I shot it quite a bit with the lock, but after seeing stuff on the internet about it I started getting cold feet. I bought the plug and have been happy ever since. Plus those locks really make a nice revolver look terrible.

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Had a .45 ACP revolver with the lock go belly up the first time I shot it with standard ball loads.

Sent it back to S&W for repair and they fixed it but I could never bring myself to trust that gun again. Lost it in the bankruptcy so I’ll scour around for something that’s pre lock or plan on buying the kit to remove the lock and fill the hole.

Had a J Frame with the lock that never gave me an issue and I trusted it. Didn’t keep it long though and it went down the road.

Vince


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