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Looking good to me! What was the accuracy from the same loads out of unturned Norma brass?

It’s usually a powder that isn’t available to reloaders but it may be pretty close to something available in some cases. I imagine that in some cases it may even be the same as what is available to us but impossible to know for sure. Add a pic if you want, we can guess but don’t take it to the bank…

“So do any of you have an experience where changing seating depth, powder, charge weight, bullet type failed to give the accuracy you sought, and neck Turing did?” I guess we just see this question differently? The tight necks on the 300 win mag was causing pressure issues which caused accuracy...

Exactly…he had a known, good load with acceptable accuracy for himself. Changed brass and ran into the neck clearance issues evidently. He was not starting from scratch and couldn’t find any load that shot, turned his necks and then bam, magic accuracy. I agree that most people won’t see a...

That was with his known/good load though. You don’t just pick some random load out of a manual, neck turn the brass and then your shooting bug holes?

I don’t think it works like that. Accuracy is sort of like cooking…if you start with ingredients that you don’t like, they aren’t going to taste good even if they’re perfectly cooked! I’m in for experienced answers to your question though….

I do not neck turn and for the most part, have been able to find acceptable accuracy for my needs(1/2moa-1moa…occasionally better). I’ve considered trying neck turned brass to see if it makes a difference…..

I’ve read over and over again about copper mono’s preferring a lot of jump. I don’t know what I’m doing differently but I personally have not seen that. My best Barnes TTSX loads are .005” off the lands….in my 7mm-08.

I’d be interested to hear about your data for 7mm mag when you get to it….

I was told that BR2’s are almost a magnum primer? Regardless, I’m not necessarily suggesting that you try them as much as I was just stating the components that I use in a somewhat similar application.

I’ll preface that I don’t load or shoot 300 win mag. Closest I do is 7mm rem mag, 180gr Eld-m, H1000 at 73gr if I remember correctly and I use CCI BR2 primers loaded to 3.475”. I see that you’re also loading quite long which can produce a difference between book velocities and book charge...

I’ve always used a Rockchucker. Sounds like I may have to try one of these Co-Ax’s….

I’m not sure what I’m more jealous about….you’re $600 stainless Tikka 7mm-08 or the 1/4-1/2 moa groups it shoots. My m70 featherweight looks and feels great but it doesn’t shoot like that!

Those are some very nice 3 shot groups! Your data has me a little confused though. Is there a bunch of combos not shown that were not as accurate or? That’s to be expected….

My chronograph results with Ext and 50gr Speer TNT in a 24” barrel match that QL prediction pretty closely. I was getting slightly higher velocities per charge weight than shown but I’m using mollied bullets with a different bearing surface than a 50gr vmax and a longer OAL I’m pretty sure...

Powders that I’ve actually used in mine include Varget, IMR 3031, RL16 and Leverevolution. I have a decent 140gr load with RL16 at 2850fps but have basically settled on a 120gr TTSX with Leverevolution at 3275fps in my rifle.

The CFE would be good for 120gr and should work for 140gr. I’d go with something slower for 162gr personally. H4350 or RL16, maybe even Staball 6.5.

Sounds like a great time. Tanned hide would be cool for a man cave. I killed one with a bow once and after I found it thought it didn’t smell bad…a lot like a deer so I brought it home and was going to cook it up. My wife had other ideas….lol. Still kinda wonder what marmot tastes like.

Got a CA archery buck tag and my buddy and I both drew WY “any antelope” tags. This will be our 3rd time and a different unit every time.

H1000 is my preferred flavor in 7mm REM Mag. 140gr-180gr bullets