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It is good news as Starline makes solid brass. Probably the top of the heap for reasonable priced brass that is priced well.

Wow. That’s a solid deal.

Same here depending on the cartridge.

I’ve seen a few of the SS #1s in 35 Whelen that are really calling to me.

I’d just start with WSM 165 data and go from there. I doubt you’ll have any surprises. They’re not terribly different than any other 165-168 bullet out there and should have less bearing surface than a 168 Nosler BT.

No idea. I mostly use a Forster Coax which should help with the problem all the way around. I’ve just gotten into the habit of keeping the decappimg rod a bit lose, not really loose, just enough you can move the decappimg pin around with your finger. Some dies come with a rubber washer just for...

You technically don’t need an expander. Not sure if you have access to a set of dies that are 7mm? You could swap the expander rod around to push it through the 264 cases with the inside of the necks lubed. Once you have the necks opened up start sizing the necks down until they chamber snug...

Good intel Phil. Never thought of sorting them like that.

TD are you saying you’re seeing .003” runout after a case is sized of .003” run out after seating a bullet? The reason I ask is I had a few sets of dies that would pull the necks crooked when I would extract the case from the sizer die and the neck pulled over the expander. All I did in those...

I use RL16 in my 375 Improved with the 250 TTSXs for about 3000 last I checked. IMR4350 made nice fire form loads with 300 grain Sierras at 2450 or so as well. Doesn’t seem like it’s hard to make good 375 ammo. They’re a bunch of fun though.

Phil I get that. It’d be cool to replicate it today and see what you get for the difference. Not that it matters but it’s always interesting to see what difference there was.

It is a hot rod powder. I figure barrels are like tires and man, 570 shoots for me in the Mashburn and RUMs. I just try not to hammer on stuff and keep the firewood sized kernels cleaned out now and again:)

Just for what it’s worth the temp stable part of stuff is a bit overrated in my opinion. Definitely a thing if you’re redlining stuff in the winter cold temps and then shoot in the 90-100’s in the summer but I haven’t had any issue killing deer, elk and other things if I work up my loads in the...

What scope and mounts are you using on your rifle. While it’s possible the gun is doing it, the other shots being all over the map screams something with the mounts or scope.

I’d try the 42 grains of H and IMR4350 with the 100’s. Your 1-10 will stabilize them fine. Let us know how you make out.

Just me but I’d use the slowest powder that fills the case if you want speed. Doesn’t matter in regards to barrel length. The fastest fps with a long barrel with be the fastest with a shorter barrel. I’d think 2900 with a 140 AB in your 19” barrel should be fairly easy. I’m using RL23 in a 20”...

Makes sense to me. I’d use all of the 120’s up. If they’re killing deer the way you want then there isn’t too much reason to change. A faster twisted 257 could be a lot of fun in the right rifle.

Same here Jim. A 7 Rem was my first BG rifle. I used it for woodchucks, deer, bear, crows, moose, coyotes, caribou. If I was a smart guy, I would have had one built like my Mashburn and been a happy camper. The Mashburn is just about everything I need but the 7 REM would have been just as great...

I have always meant to grab some. So much good powder out there now.

It’s hard to beat the old 7 Rem. Still one of the best. LRT sounds excellent