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That’s a heckuva great load. Nothing left on the table there.

For sure. I’ve converted a 338 Win to 35 Newton which I used 375 Ruger brass to make. Rifle fed like it had eyes with empty brass cases. No need to mess with the rails. You may need a stronger mag spring to push the heavier bulleted rounds but that’s a big maybe as well.

They do have some great prices on bullets.

Jim beat me to it. Neck them up to 7mm and then create a false shoulder and enjoy increased case life and no need to burn up bullets and powder just to form cases.

I ran a 130 ABs into water jugs point blank at about 25 yards from my 264 WM at around 3350. Bullet holds up very well and also hunts pretty well. Like Ernie said, I’d likely opt for 140’s but if I had a pile of 130’s I’d hunt happily. https://forum.nosler.com/threads/264-win-mag-130gr-ab.16509/

The 180 BT is way better than it gets credit for in its relative toughness. I’d have 0 concerns with running one into an elk from a 300 mag. Seen it done and it didn’t leave anything more to be desired.

For sure. I’d not have guessed it was 55k but whatever. That 140 at nearly 3k is a great one.

No problem Joe. Let us know how you make out.

If you can get that 175 ABLR to shoot it is a wicked bullet. I’ve had nothing but excellent results with it in my Mashburn out to 600’ish on elk so far. I’d always thought the ABLR may be too soft but to my liking it has worked wonderful.

I agree with Jim but if I was shooting smallish deer with a 257 Roberts I’d be in on the 100 BT myself. But saying that, 2850 with that 120 PT is more than capable of opening much further than what you’re planning to shoot. Run it through a ballistics ap and see where it his 2000FPS and use...

If you haven’t tried Lever or CFE223 in a 308 with heavies it’s probably worth a shot. 180’s with either seem to get good speeds.

I don’t put too much stock in cratered primers and even sometimes marks on cases if it’s a first firing since brass needs to expand to fit a chamber. I think you’re in good shape if you observe what the chrono says within reason to your barrel length. Pressure is speed and vice versa. Unless...

This thread made me remember I have a case of H110 someone gave to me cause they have no use for it. It’s the old style containers. Probably should crack it open and see if it’s any good. ;)

Beat me to it. Easy enough to get excellent 30 TC brass doing it that way.

Just my opinion but I disregard max charges listed mostly and use my chronograph to tell me what my gun, lot of powder and bullets are doing. I do pay attention to max speeds and load accordingly. Looks like your case either has more volume capacity or a tighter chamber. I wouldn’t sweat it and...

If you have a good 7 Mag you may already have what you’re looking for. The 28 is surely a hot rod though in a great rifle.

That’s where my brain went as well. 200 TTSX, 225 Sierra and 225 AB would be first up if I had access to them.

That's the last thing I'd want myself. That just doesn't work out well for me. I'd rather feel the case the chamber, doesn't have to be much, but you should always feel case engagement, I know it's my thoughts, but I want as little case growth as possible along with max case alignment in the...

Just my thoughts, and mind you, I like longer bullets, but the 280 AI would be limited in mag space as well. The 7x57 and family fits excellent and is made for the action. A short bullet cartridge like a Whelen or similar would probably be okay. The 280 AI would probably be fine, since the...

Sometimes pressure signs aren't really pressure in my experience. If you can't feel the shoulder engaging a bit during final bolt turn down, I always worry a bit. Keep it the same throughout the brass life cycle and it makes "signs" easier to spot.