Best way to remove bedding material?

i was thinking dremel......
 
Once it is set, the removal has to be physical. Dremel allows for quick removal.
 
For the larger diameter action/barrel channel areas, I use a Dremel abrasive wheel about 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Work slowly... Then switch to a Dremel carbide bit to open the recoil lug area where needed. Always tape up the top edges of the stock (I use electrical tape) to prevent any accidental nicks or scrapes to the finished wood just outboard of the action/barrel channel.
 
Yep, I have a Dremel, makes quick work of it. I have learned to tape up the stock completely as well. After too many small "oops" moments, the tape is cheap insurance and makes clean up a snap
 
Fotis,
Dremel tool and sand paper.
What are you working on buddy?

JD338
 
The 416......

Someone wanted to be a gun doctor.

What a gun Quack!
 
They need to have a test in order to obtain a permit for buying bedding material! More damage has been done or undone (for that matter) by epoxy bedding kits than by any other means.

Of course my bautiful 7mm Mag Mauser was inletted by an insane rat on speed! Accraglass saved the day and made a beautifully crafted, inletted rifle stock with color and figure out of a mess! Plus, the rifle (complete) only cost $600 with a stock that would have been $2000 even back then (1973) had the inside matched the craftsmanship of the outside stock.

Their loss, my skill and gain.
 
FOTIS":zovg36ti said:
What say you?
My wife says, "If you want clean sheets, you have to yank the dirty ones and throw them in the laundry." And I do it every time.... :lol: :lol: So thats how she :wink: does it.

Like Scotty says, triple tape the wood and exposed surfaces. Those dremels will make laps around the forend. I put on 3 power readers, even though I don't need them. With the room dark, I use an LED light from the side and close in order to make shadows on the surface. I crank up the variable dremel pretty high, and use stones, cutting bits, and for the fine line joining the stock edge to metal, I use a flexible fine grit sanding disk. With that I apply minimal pressure, and barely stroke a 1 or 2 inch section at a time. Sort of like painting pinstripes. If you need to pry or hog some of the bedding out, warm it up with a hair dryer first and it will move easier..
Hope that helps.
EE2
 
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