Competition Dies

NWBlacktail

Handloader
Dec 17, 2011
357
0
I'm slowly (on a 2 year plan) trying to come up with a tooling list I'd like to have when I re-barrel my rifle. I only have one set of competition dies, and they are RCBS in 223. Really like the micrometer seating adjustment.

Anyway, RCBS doesn't make comp dies in the caliber I'm wanting (280AI), so I was looking at Redding. They are really expensive. Is it worth it? I'm not a competition shooter, primarily a hunter, but I like to tinker (as likely do most of us) with accuracy loading.

Anyway, what say you? Regular seating/sizing dies, or spring for the competition dies?
 
I have those exact Redding dies...also had them for my previous rifle (30-06).

The question of whether they are worth it is one only you can answer...from one tinkerer to another...they are worth it to me.

There is one thing that I do not like about them...you cannot use them with compressed loads....so leave the Reloder 25, Retumbo, and similar powders on the shelf...IMR7828 is about as slow as you can go.
 
I think that if you're going to the expense of having a custom barrel fitted, you owe yourself the best brass, best bullets, and the best loading dies you can obtain.

In your shoes, I'd grab the Redding compeition dies in a heartbeat.

Guy
 
I bought a Redding Competition seating die for the .270 Win. It is one of the best purchases I ever made. I keep a chart of bullets, and dial settings vs OAL. So with any bullet I have used before I can literally "dial it in". I am now switching to a chart of bullets, dial settings and ogive readings so I can "dial in" to specifice ogive settings.

I just wish I could get one for the 450 Marlin.
 
Alright, message received :mrgreen:

Someone actually gave me the competition RCBS 223 seating die. So I never actually bough one of these sets, and I don't own any Redding dies.

But OK, it's going in the budget.
 
I've used Redding competition dies for quite awhile now and along with their competition shellholders I've never had a complaint. They just plain work.
 
Ok, one more question. Should I also get a neck sizer?

Some of the Redding sets are a bit confusing to me. They have a 3-die set which includes a seating, neck, and "body sizing" die. Is the body sizing die the same as a full length sizer in RCBS kits?

Also, what is that bushing for that you need to buy separately?

I guess that's three questions… :mrgreen:
 
Opinions will vary...

For hunting, I full length size everything...and I have seen no measureable loss in accuracy from not neck sizing (that statement is based on 30-06, not 280 Ackley)

Skip all that...just get the micrometer seater and a regular sizing die (no bushing necessary), no need for all that other stuff.
 
I use a Redding Comp seating die for my 30-06 and 25-06. I find the die seats bullets as straight as any other, including a Wilson inline die and a Forster Comp seating die.

If you wanted to save a little money the Forster Comp seating die performs as well as the Redding. However, I prefer the micrometer on the Redding die as compared to the Forster. The Forster's micrometer has an odd adjustment per revolution I've never quite figured out. No big deal, I just count marks, but the Redding's is more logical for my little brain.
 
G'Day Fella's,

I hope I'm not treading on anybodies toes here but in my experience, you really need to have an exceedingly accurate (sub 1/2"- 5 shot) firearm and the ability to shoot it, before you may notice any difference in accuracy. Even then, some firearms may just prefer the cheapest of Lee Precision made dies!
Unfortunately, you won't know until you hand over the $$$ and try them but these kind of items, should be a once in a life time purchase so................
As to the Neck Sizing die, yes regardless of which type of Redding dies you purchase, get the Deluxe Die Set with the Neck Sizer in it!

Another Neck Size die option that I am completely sold on, is the Lee Precision, Collet type Neck Sizing Die!
FYI, I use these exclusively, on both my progressive reloading presses (for .308Win & .223Rem), as they require no lubrication of the case neck prior to and removal of it, after reloading and no powder "Log Jams" in the case neck, during reloading! They are The Best!!!

Hope that helps

Doh!
Homer
 
joelkdouglas":2pwp0fm0 said:
I use a Redding Comp seating die for my 30-06 and 25-06. I find the die seats bullets as straight as any other, including a Wilson inline die and a Forster Comp seating die.

Yup. I like my little Wilson dies & arbor press, but I make no claim that they produce ammo that is any better than what can be built using a good conventional press and Redding Comp dies. Those are really nice dies!

In my experience, people get all twitterpaited about the micrometer adjustment, and think that's something really special... And it is nice. But once your load is worked up, and you're in production mode, hopefully building thousands of identical cartridges... What good is the micrometer? It just sits there, never moving again, once the load is worked up.

The advantage of competition/match grade dies (of any make) to me is the potential to build "straighter" ammo than can normally be accomplished with standard loading dies. Straighter ammo, with less bullet runout, tends to shoot better.

That said, how is it that I have taken a box of factory loaded Federal Gold Medal match ammo, shoved the rounds into my .308 and made a 3" or less group at 600 yards? :shock: What kind of magic pixie dust are those guys at Federal using anyway? :grin:

Love handloading. It's a never-ending source of fascination for me.

Regards, Guy
 
The micrometer is handy for loading different bullets in the same rifle, the same bullets in different rifles, different lots of bullets, etc....just dial it in and load.
 
I use these dies for my competition rifles:
http://whiddengunworks.net/reloadingdies.html
They feel more like a Forster die in weight compared to a Redding die. John shoots high power rifle matches on a national level and seems to do quite well with his products in matches.

The concentricity of my loaded rounds are as good as my Wilson dies produce (the standard as Guy says) with 3 different rifles. When setting up the sizing die, I use a bump gauge to determine when I have moved the shoulder back far enough, (usually 1-2 thousandths) which will not "work" the entire body of the case. This can be done with any manufacturers dies I have ever used. To properly check for where the shoulder bump needs to be, remove the firing pin and spring from the bolt. The bolt handle should drop easily without a "crush" feel when closing the bolt on a sized case.

I would also anneal the cases at least every 3 firings to ensure the cases don't get work hardened and not allow consistent spring-back and release of the bullet. The above steps may seem over the top to some who are only using the case to make a load for hunting, but if you want really accurate consistent ammo for longer ranges, a lot of these steps are necessary.
 
Yes, John Whidden shoots with a higher level of skill than I've ever mustered, and he's done some very interesting things for long-range precision shooting. I like what little I know!

Guy
 
257 Ackley":29v85g0v said:
When setting up the sizing die, I use a bump gauge to determine when I have moved the shoulder back far enough, (usually 1-2 thousandths) which will not "work" the entire body of the case. This can be done with any manufacturers dies I have ever used. To properly check for where the shoulder bump needs to be, remove the firing pin and spring from the bolt. The bolt handle should drop easily without a "crush" feel when closing the bolt on a sized case.

I would also anneal the cases at least every 3 firings to ensure the cases don't get work hardened and not allow consistent spring-back and release of the bullet. The above steps may seem over the top to some who are only using the case to make a load for hunting, but if you want really accurate consistent ammo for longer ranges, a lot of these steps are necessary.

I Absolutely agree and would only add, - a Lee Factory Crimp die to finish off the round with good consistency to neck tension has proved of significant benefit aiding accuracy.

I use a normal (RCBS) F/L resizing die set to the measured headspace and F/L resize cases to within +/- .0005" of that dimension. It's easy to set up standard dies correctly to do this, also to set the decapping/expander rod for concentricity and is in my experience better than neck sizing.
I do however use a competition seating die which I find invaluable & finish as I mentioned with the Lee FCD.
Good luck whichever way you decide.
ATB ET
 
Ridgerunner665":1g1nxx50 said:
There is one thing that I do not like about them...you cannot use them with compressed loads....so leave the Reloder 25, Retumbo, and similar powders on the shelf...IMR7828 is about as slow as you can go.

I know you went with the Redding Competition seating dies as well, but I'm curious what powders your considering with your 150 ABLR. It is kind of a buzz kill to not be able to use compressed loads with those Redding dies.

I have some IMR7828ssc, which I think will work without having to use compressed loads. Not sure about RL22/MRP.
 
I'm stocked up on MRP...haven't done any shooting yet but it looks like I hit 61,000 psi at about 102% load density, I was using these same type dies to load 30-06 to 102% load density, with no trouble.

And I use a long drop tube to drop the powder into the case...of the rounds that I have loaded, 60 grains of MRP under a 160 AB still has room enough to shake a little.
 
I like to use Hornady dies. They have a micrometer that can move die to die. I use it a lot when I'm working up loads. One micrometer for all my dies. If I settle on a single load I'll set the standard seater and leave it. I also like the Redding Competition shellholders to adjust shoulder set back for each rifle. They allow you to use standard adjustments on the dies but still make considerations for each chamber.
Scott
 
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