Pressurepoint in the forearm.

Rigbymauser

Handloader
Nov 3, 2012
496
0
Inspired by Fotis I added a pressure point on my .270Wea and .240Wea.

My .270Wea did have a forearm pressurepoint when it left the gunmakers but was later removed(by me) and groups open more.
Did a Little testshooting here this prevoius weekend and at 100meters. My 3 first shots printed under a quarter. I used ABLR 150grain. I was convinced!. Saving my barrel I didn´t shoot any more as I use maxloads for this caliber. Likewise my .270Wea the .240weatherby was added a pressurepoint and that turned from my previous disappointing resultes into succes. I used only old Barnes X 95grain loaded up and a few quick shots at 100m and 135meters said it all.

Tese: Long slim barrels need a pressurepoint.

Leaving for Africa here in a month I will load up and do one more final test at 200meters with the .270Weatherby.
 
My M700 shot great with those 2 Remington factory bumps (pressure points) for many years. But as the wood aged (Dec. '81 birthdate) it warped at the left forend. Just like that, it wouldn't even hold zero. That left pressure point was putting extreme pressure on the barrel. Just something to be aware of as wood tends to do it's own thing.
I am assuming your stock is wood. If not, just disregard.
I glass bedded the entire rifle, including the forend but left the barrel floating.
 
Why are some Weatherby® rifles “free floated” and some are not?
We have found through our testing that barrels having a smaller outside diameter than our #3 contour require upward pressure to help stabilize the barrel for increased accuracy. Our free floated barrels have enough rigidity in the barrel for them to be free floated.

Above is a quote from Weatherby FAQ under Customer Support !
 
A friend o fmine removed the pressurepoint from his new Weatherby Mk V in .300cal. That Improved the accuracy substantially using Barnes bullets as the mandatory bullet for Weatherby rifles
 
My theory. The thinner barrel oscillate's faster and moves the bore farther, so to settle things down the factory or stock maker, adds pressure points or beds the entire barrel in wood. This not always gives the best accuracy but it will give consistent adequate groups with a wider range of loads.
If you have seen any of my test groups you can visualize each group being scattered by barrel oscillation, then as the seating depth or powder charge changes subsequent groups begin to move closer to the node and start to tighten up. Often a small change in seating depth like .005 will suddenly shoot tiny groups. At this point all the shots are leaving the barrel at the same location in the barrel oscillation. You have found the node. And this is with a Remington factory contour magnum barrel. This is with the first 2 inches of the chamber glass bedded tight and the rest of the barrel free floated.
The heavier the barrel the less it moves and it is easier to find good loads, in fact more loads will shoot well with the heavy barrel than a thinner contour.
I bought my wife a Ruger M77 in 7X57 back in '82, I never got the rifle to shoot any better than 1 1/2" at 100 yards but it would shoot a lot of loads that size. Really, the accuracy was adequate for about anything we'd ever use the rifle for. She was happy, so my chisels and gouges went back into roll and I never touched the stock. It was bedded tight in wood.
 
The light whippy barrels seem to do better with a pressure point . But I removed mine gradually in my B&C stock for the 300Wby Vanguard and the groups got tighter as I decreased the pressure. The Vanguard has a #2 contour barrel.
 
My first Weatherby a 257 SMOA version now called RC! Has the pads and it shoots tiny groups but as mentioned gets warm fast but I would not remove them myself as this is a hunting rifle that will probably not see more than 3 shots at a time and if the operator does his part it should only need 1 well placed shot for most anything at the speed this thing is packing!
 
I've talked with more than one Gunsmith that has said a pressure point is a relic of a bygone era.
My handloading efforts seem to confirm this but I usually only find one good load per rifle before moving on.
 
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