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[emoji1303]. I lived east of Memphis for five years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cleveland, MS? Oh I've killed a pile of rabbits down there. A great buddy of mine lives in Rosedale on the river side of the levee on the water. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good deal!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. What TD said is right. [emoji1303]This is how I do it. Bring a couple of rifles to rotate and shoot. Stand them up for the "chimney effect" for Faster cooling. Usually with 2-3 rifles you can keep everything reasonably cool and avoid killer overheating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used wet rags but it requires a thorough clean up afterward. I think anything that can circulate air inside and outside the barrel has to help. By the way, how is your annealing project Tack? Working ok? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PJG a guy I know recommended something like RE19, RE22, and H4831. Slow burning powders with minimum 0.040" jump with the 150 ABLRs. These are what I'm working with in my 7-08, then on to 7 mag. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been told the ABLRs like plenty of jump (like at least 0.040" jump) and do better with very slow powders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. I bet they'll make it right. Those Redding comp seater dies make life easy. Well worth the money. Super consistent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could try it safely. I'm not sure about the consistency and runout, etc. Curious what was wrong with the 260 comp seater? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Something to be said for old-school bullets. I love my Sierra and Speer bullets. They just work and are almost never hard to tune for accuracy. Where would we be without this new fancy stuff? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm no real fan of Hornady so I'd let that one RIP. LOL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never gotten as good accuracy out of SST as other bullets. However I wouldn't be scared to jump them based on max mag length or to the cannelure, and just focus on finding the right powder combo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ok thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is correct. The bright pencil point tip should just kiss the brass. Move the torches closer. Your flame intensity itself is about right. The timing is adjusted so that brass is moving out of the flame just before the first sign of starting to glow. Nice chatting with you. Call if I can...

Tack I'm glad you posted this pic. No it isn't right. I was wondering why your times were so long. Once you adjust your flame distance in to the brass where the bright sharp tip is just touching, your times will be cut to between setting 1-2 I believe. I sent you my phone # in pm. Sent from...

I've personally never used tempilaq. I set mine up and observe under low / no light. When you see the first indication of brass starting to "glow" it should be moving out of the flame. In fact you should move it out just before this. It's a safe place to be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you post pics, try to get a pic of the flame orientation, and the Tempilaq before and after if possible. Glad you're in business. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

David taught me to aim one flame low on the shoulder and one high one the shoulder. Never directly in the neck. You want heat to travel up the neck from the shoulder. Just remember that not enough is better than too much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would tumble fired brass or clean the cases however you want before annealing. Then resize and deprime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They didn't tell you anything about bullet construction??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk