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"it still shoots very accurately" - then don't "fix' it.

"Now the part I have a question is for anyone shooting irons with a peep/ ghost ring . How much of the front blade should be on target?" As much as you want... With a blade I'd agree with Guy. Your eye is going to center the top edge of the blade in the ring. You can set your sight picture...

Here's picture I found in my files comparing two 375H&H actions. A RSM and a Winchester, just to give you an idea of the size of this thing... I don't think it will be a problem getting it to feed. :lol:

Testing with Factory ammo is an obvious good idea. Hadn't thought of that. I just assumed that the rails and possibly the follower would have to be worked for a larger case/shoulder diameter. There is lots of meat in both so it would just be removing the right amount in the right places. Plus...

Preacher, seems like you are tempting me! :twisted: Well it's not on the front burner right now anyway. I know a good smith that I would trust but I will still look around. I'm pretty particular about this rifle and have thought about it on & off for the last 7-8 yrs and it'll take some...

Well here's my take from somebody that doesn't live in elk country and any elk hunt is a very special proposition. 308 is enough gun at the range you can put the first bullet in the vitals in from field positions and that bullet has enough oomph to get the vitals when that well hit bull doesn't...

Well "RUM" just doesn't have the same panache as "Weatherby" on the side of the barrel anyway... :P I'll post some pics when I get back to where the rifle is.

I believe the 375 RUM is a fatter case and a larger head diameter. The action is a full magnum length action. I know at least one that was converted to a 505 Gibbs so the size and the beef is there. That is not the issue. If I do the Weatherby there will need to be some feed rail work I'm sure...

...and that is the rub, and it's a 23" barrel. For all the instances that say 200fps+ gain is doable there is one that says it isn't. All the RSMs were built the same. Only the chambers and the hole in the barrel changed. They came in 375 H&H, 416 Rigby, 458 Win and 458 Lott. This made the 375s...

Not going to chop the barrel. The RSMs have an integral rib and excellent sights and I like the way it swings right now. If I was certain I could get 2900 with 260/270gr bullets I would be talking to my gunsmith. I am leaning to the Weatherby version to keep the feeding as smooth as possible and...

Well here's my deal. I have a Ruger RSM in 375 H&H that is a beast. It weighs 10 lbs naked. It is however a very soft shooter. It fits me well, action is smooth and slick, and it is dead nuts reliable. There is no way practicable to make it lighter so what I have always thought is it would be...

Thanks for the inputs so far. Not interested in using a brake under any circumstances. Not even looking for rifle/build recommendations. Just looking for preferred weight for the range of 375 cartridges. H&H, Ruger, 375 Weatherby, Rum, 378 Weatherby. (There is method in my madness :mrgreen:)

I'm looking for some input from those experienced with 375 caliber rifles and up on optimum bolt action rifle weight for hunting. I am specifically interested in the various 375 chamberings and what you feel the ideal weight would be for each power level. To further refine the question, I am not...

I plan on loading some in my 257 Roberts that I'm getting sorted for next year. I don't have any qualms about them on NorVa deer where I shoot them. Probably should just call Sierra and see what they say. Kind of like asking for directions though I guess... :roll:

Controversial topic for some. The only way to know is making identical loads with and without and then decide for yourself. I use the FCD because it works for me.

Not to hijack... :oops: but I really wish some manufacturers would reshoot 358Win with modern components. If you look at book loads and go back in the older manuals it hasn't changed in forever. Never tried LVR but would like to see how it compares to Tac and N133, N135 powders. Hornady doesn't...

Get the bore clean and mind your case length. You didn't mention if or how often you have trimmed your brass.

There's always a better load unless all your bullets go in the same hole. If I've got kill zone accuracy out as far as I'm going to shoot I'm done. I like to look at first shot groups compiled from every time I put a rifle on paper. Requires a little work but I believe it tells me more than just...

375 H&H is easy to load for and many powders will work well. Pretty much anything medium burning rate will work. Last I loaded were 250gr Sierras and I used 760. It will work for 300gr loads also. I have used both Fed 215s and WLR primers and both worked fine. I partial size to keep the die off...

After a box of ammo? Heck I've had barrels that started shooting crappy after three shots because they were fouled. And that wasn't with old Barnes bullets either. Got to get some Wipe-Out. I hear nothing but good about it.