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Medium to fast burning powder is good for your 308 and matched with that shorter barrel. Typically your fastest powder in a standard barrel will still be your fastest powder in a short barrel. I have a couple Christensen's Ridgeline, FFT, Summit, Ar's.. I really like them and have good luck...

I'll second the sig kilo although I don't do much long range shooting yet and can't say how much it helps. I got one that also paired with the scope and ran the BDX app. Mine was just used in hunting situations but it was great.

I second this on the BoreTech, it's really hard to beat.

Has not been the case for me. In 3 shots you know for sure what isn't going to work. Although the internet today with all the podcast talk and new ideas says you have to shoot something 50 times to know it's good. All that does it wash the small detail out. In a hunting rifle, I care where...

Looks like a winner for sure! I shot Grand all the way down at 6 degrees with wind blowing up to 91 and sunny. Several rounds at different temps. It's amazing for a ball powder and at all temps, it was consistent and shot good groups at 100yards.

Are you single feeding your rounds while doing this test or are they staying in your mag/chamber? If you are single feeding, while doing the test was the ammo or gun sitting in the sun? I just did a pretty extensive test on Grand powder (for temp stability, I hope to get time to post it up...

I have a very similar situation, although I like buying guns and they all go in my safe... so it's not all bad haha

These are all great recommendations that I do not think you can go wrong with, especially for your hunting situation. A little outside of the box that is also a fantastic woods gun is the 444 Marlin. Ammo and rifles can be tricky to find though.

Great find! Can't wait to hear how it shoots.

I've done this before in the past. What I started doing some years ago is labeling my rounds. I have a reloading notebook that I just take random notes on as I'm loading. Once my stuff is dialed in, I have a clean notebook that I record my load spec in without all the notes from along the...

I have noticed the same. If I back off a little from the fastest possible speed within the safe spec of the load I get a tighter group in just about every caliber. I do not and have not owned a 6.5 creedmor and can't speak on that one.

Pictures didn't show up on my end. There are some amazing blue line streams here in PA with beautiful Brookies in them. My family and I fish them often.

These guys have all provided a great deal of valuable detail. The only thing I would ass is how often are you cleaning the barrel, and how much time between shots? Everything else these guys are covering is important and all of it could be a factor for sure. That rifle, with factory ammo...

I have a pile of mounts of all sorts. Typically once every other year or so I get something mounted. The cost has jumped significantly, but I really enjoy them. I have a few rooms in the house I can put my mounts and a lot of them go in the garage along my walls. While I would not complain...

So hard, Pheasant is up there for me, Quail is close behind it. Moose or Bison are close the top with Elk coming in third I have to note that Axis deer alone isn't bad, but my Dad fixes them up in what he calls an Antelope egg and it's really hard to top that.

I think what Blkram stated here is the biggest factor in what you are seeing right now. Like he said, to prove or disprove this. Set some rounds up and single feed. I'm a fan of CBTO over COAL, but many have better success than I do using COAL, so do whatever you like but go extreme. .010...

Great looking rifle!

I don't want to complicate this, but all you are doing is returning the brass to a more soft state after being work hardened. Too much heat for too long is worse than not enough time in the heat. When I started doing this I used a heat pen like what we were using for heat treating metal before...

I started reloading by watching my Pap and doing it with him in the late 90's. I started reloading on my own in the early 2000's. Pap had a DIY torch that he used to "anneal" only on rare occasions and for special loads. He mostly used factory brass from new boxes of ammo he shot to reload...

I anneal after each firing for most of my guns and when I'm working with someone else on their loads. It makes a difference for sure, but it's not a must. A lot of it depends on what you want to get out of your reloads and your materials. If you want to keep your ES down, your load...