6.5 x 284

[TackDriver284]

A month ago, I had tried a few 3 round groups ( H4831SC ) with the Hot Cors 140's in Lapua brass in the new GAP 6.5 x 284, and it did not shoot well and was all over the map ( 1.5 inches at the most ) instead of being consistent. I noticed a little hesitant feeling on the start of the seating process with those flat base bullets and once it went in the necks and it was smooth as butter. The seat cup left a little ring on the ogive of the bullet and not does not look like it dented anything, but with the 7.5 RPM barrel, not sure it it affected it. So I switched to IMR 4831 and 7 rounds for a ladder at 100 yards, and will see if it its more consistent this time instead of being all over the place. I was enthusiastic to try the 147's ELD-M in that 6.5 x 284, since I have 3 boxes sitting on the shelf. Whipped up some 3 round groups with H4831SC last night in .4 grain increments from 48.8 grains to 50.5 grains. Waiting for the weather to warm a bit before heading to the range and shoot over a chrono. Hopefully see a nice group and my goal is 2875- 2900 fps ish, since its a slow powder but very stable. Surely there are faster powders, but I prefer accuracy over speed. Those 147's should be wicked on deer sized game if i stay off bones, I remembered using the 178 ELD-M in 308 on a 8 pointer on the last day of deer season, it was a good double lung with a nice exit of about an inch.

 

[grry10]

I'm interested in seeing the results. I have a Cooper 6.5-284 Norma that has been sitting for several years and has never had a load worked up for it.

 

[jimbires]

if this tight neck was on virgin brass try , a generous VLD chamfer, and running the neck over your expander . I find most new brass to have tight necks . I'm not sure if the ring on the ogive will hinder your accuracy at 100 yards . I've read that a bullets heal is very important , maybe more than the nose . maybe the tight start into the neck marred the bullet base . I've shot bullets with missing plastic tips at 100 yards they seem to go into the group .

looks like you saved a bunch of money , David Tubb sells a nose ring tool .

NOSERING® Tool Body License

David Tubb Nosering Tool

www.davidtubb.com

 

[SJB358]

if this tight neck was on virgin brass try , a generous VLD chamfer, and running the neck over your expander . I find most new brass to have tight necks . I'm not sure if the ring on the ogive will hinder your accuracy at 100 yards . I've read that a bullets heal is very important , maybe more than the nose . maybe the tight start into the neck marred the bullet base . I've shot bullets with missing plastic tips at 100 yards they seem to go into the group .

looks like you saved a bunch of money , David Tubb sells a nose ring tool .

NOSERING® Tool Body License

David Tubb Nosering Tool

www.davidtubb.com

Same here. Agreed about making sure your neck tension isn’t too heavy. With a decent inside chamfer they should seat smoother unless you’re up there in tension.

Those 147’s are demons for me.

 

[TackDriver284]

I did chamfer the mouths and used a .262" expander the first time, this time I used a .263" . Maybe the seater cup is not made for those Hot Cor bullets that the edge of the cup is biting into the bullet ogive but I need to check later but I don't have that issue with the Ballistic Tips or the ELD's.

 

[SJB358]

I did chamfer the mouths and used a .262" expander the first time, this time I used a .263" . Maybe the seater cup is not made for those Hot Cor bullets that the edge of the cup is biting into the bullet ogive but I need to check later but I don't have that issue with the Ballistic Tips or the ELD's.

Probably just the base engaging the case mouth a bit hard. Let me know what happens since you opened it up a little bit.

 

[TackDriver284]

Probably just the base engaging the case mouth a bit hard. Let me know what happens since you opened it up a little bit.

Sorry for not clearing it up the first time,,,the .262 mandrel was used on the first time ( 1 month ago ) I used the Hot Cors, left a ring on the bullet. This time I used a .263" and it feels the same and left a ring, then used the same mandrel and did not leave any rings with the 147 ELD, and seats a lot smoother. I'll see if there is a VLD chamfer tool next time when I buy some stuff online. Hope that helps

 

[jimbires]

you'll notice a difference with the VLD tool .
I use the chamfer tool . then I bronze brush inside the necks to remove any burr the chamfer might have left . wipe a Q-tip with some powder graphite inside the neck , ready to go .

 

[SJB358]

you'll notice a difference with the VLD tool .
I use the chamfer tool . then I bronze brush inside the necks to remove any burr the chamfer might have left . wipe a Q-tip with some powder graphite inside the neck , ready to go .

Yes sir. I don’t use the brush but I dip them in powder graphite. Seems to work slick.

 

[jimbires]

I anneal every cycle . if I don't bronze brush inside the neck after annealing, it feels gritty to me .

 

[TackDriver284]

I anneal every cycle . if I don't bronze brush inside the neck after annealing, it feels gritty to me .

If annealing each cycle, do you keep it at a consistent temperature of 650-700 degrees? I believe there is no need to make it hot where some uses the visual glow method to determine the time cycle if annealing after "each " firing compared to after 2 to 3 firings. Or am I wrong?
I just use a strip of 450 Tempilaq along the case on a few cases and inside the neck of 1 case with 650 Tempilaq. I finalize when I see that the 450 strip is burned only 1/3 of the way down the body and anneal the rest of the batch. Sorry to bring up the methods of annealing again. I don't like using Tempilaq inside the cases, since the burnt Tempilaq needs to be scrubbed out.

 

[jimbires]

I've stopped using tempilaq . I anneal in a dark room and watch for the hint of dull red color .

 

[TackDriver284]

I've stopped using tempilaq . I anneal in a dark room and watch for the hint of dull red color .

Would you know the temp roughly?

 

[jimbires]

should be around 750* F .
we can't heat brass long enough for a cooler temp to anneal the neck and shoulder , without over heating the case body and head .
I anneal the same way all the time . I don't believe in a partial anneal, or stress relief anneal , happening at temps lower than 750* , in the quick time limit we work in .