Annealing and Tempilaq?

[FOTIS]

Which temperature rated Tempilaq do you guys use?


http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilaq ... g-liquids/

 

[jimbires]

750* inside the neck . I've never bothered watching the temp at the case head , but I think it's max 400* recommended .

 

[Dr. Vette]

I've heard both 650 and 750 being used.

Someday I hope to buy the Bench Source unit, as I can tell some cases could use it. They recommend the 650 inside the neck.

 

[FOTIS]

450 max on base

 

[GeorgeS]

Don't forget to place the case block in water deep enough to cover the case head prior to annealing the necks and shoulders.

George

 

[jimbires]

Fotis , read this section in the link ,it's about half way down . " Factors Affecting the Annealing Process "


http://www.kenlightmfg.com/cartridgecaseannealer.htm

 

[FOTIS]

Thanks fellas.

 

[RiverRider]

Hornady provides 475-degree Tempilaq in their annealing kit and suggests that it be applied to the case about a quarter-inch below the shoulder.

 

[257 Ackley]

If you are using an annealing machine, use 750* tempilaq inside the neck to check for the correct temps when you are first starting. It will take a little while to figure out what the correct amount of "flame time" needs to be on different cases. Set the flame up to point at the neck/shoulder junction and run some old brass through until you find the correct settings. Bench Source and Giraud both make great units. I have a Giraud and have never used water during the annealing process. Why bring water into the mix if it isn't necessary? I anneal all my match brass after every firing before running it through a bushing die. Don't expect the brass to look like new Lapua brass when you get done. Some will, but a lot of factors decide what the brass will look like. You will learn to trust the tempilaq after a while.

Scott has given a good description on how he anneals brass if you are using a drill and propane torch gas on another thread.

If you buy tempilaq, don't leave it sitting near or on anything warm...the liquid that is a carrier will dry out really fast. Just another lesson learned in the process... :roll:

 

[257 Ackley]

As a side note to why I believe in annealing...I have match brass (Lapua) that is still being used with 37 firings on the cases. Primer pockets are still tight and there is no sign of any splits on the necks.

 

[Wincheringen]

I use 450 degree stuff and just below the shoulder. You do not need to heat brass all the way to 750 to anneal it. I don't use it on every case, just the first few to get a feel for the time.

 

[FOTIS]

Cool ok!

 

[SJB358]

I don't use Tempilaq when annealing, but Joel mentioned annealing in a low light room. As soon as the brass starts to glow red, I drop it. My brass life is thru the roof. As long as I am not running over PSI, my brass last's a long time, not quite as long as Joel's 6BR, but a long time for Rem Mag and WSM..

Tempilaq is a great idea, but I haven't used it and have done fine.

If I did the quantity of Joel's shooting, the machine is the way to go, but for now, MAP gas and my cordless drill works pretty well.

 

[FOTIS]

I have to anneal every other shot for the 375 VM2.

 

[SJB358]

I have to anneal every other shot for the 375 VM2.

It is easy Fotis. Get a MAP gas torch. You won't have an issue..