Annealing

I anneal too, but no specific schedule.

I've done it with the torch, but my preferred method is to dip the case in my lead pot. That way I can just get the neck and it doesn't leave any tarnish on the case either.
 
I need to start doing this very soon when my new monster toy gets in after the New Year. :wink:
 
I have been doing it for years. I use a torch, and they turn out great. You can use tempilstik until you get the feel of what you are doing. Saves a pile of cash on the high $$$$ cases.
 
I anneal all my cases, it is a very simple process. I just use a torch and a bowl full of water. I use this alot on my 338 lapua brass that cost $50.00/20. never had a case crack yet.
 
Been doing it with a torch and spin it with a drill. I studied vids on the net and time my work. works for me. You can tell you've changed things even after several reloads when you trim or neck turn...cutters work much smoother.
 
Ammosmith on youtube has some good videos on the process by using a drill socket and torch. real simple and worth not just for brass life. Helps with consistent neck tension also, since workign the brass repeatedly hardens it.
 
I do it pretty often now. I don't drop them into water anymore though. Tried it both ways, and found no difference, plus I don't have to dry cases out either.

They do make working them much easier when they are softened up nicely.
 
Switched from using Propane to MAP gas for annealing last weekend and I've gotta say, it is MUCH faster. I was using an 11 count with my Propane torch fitted with a pencil-flame style tip. With the MAP it is a 3 count and I get a nice blue band just below the shoulder and within a few seconds afterwards the case is cool enough to handle so I have dropped the water quenching as well. Really nice to not have wait for cases to dry :grin:

MAP gas does require a new torch head, but the new one can handle MAP or Propane. Just FYI. I'm pretty sure that it was a member here that mentioned MAP a while ago, but since this was a fairly recent post I figured it was worth bringing up again.

PS- MAP is in the yellow tank vs blue for Propane, and can usually be found in the same place i.e. local hardware store.
 
I never annealed any brass until last year. I found it easy like most have said just a propane torch and I use a cookie sheet with a wet towel on it to cool the brass, but not completely soaked after dropped in water. Using a drill and a 1/2" socket it takes very little time. :)
 
+1 for using MAP gas. It's the only way to fly! You can hammer out a bunch of rounds with a drill and a MAP torch in no time. I've noticed a significant accuracy decline in my .338 Lapua when my brass hasn't been annealed in awhile. I do it every 3rd loading in that gun to keep things working smoothly.
 
SJB358":216dd0ao said:
Man, I gotta try MAP guess... You all cost me alot of darned money! HA!

WE cost YOU a lot of money. (In my best Dr. Evil voice) Riiiight. Hello, Pot? This is Kettle...
 
BK":1ugnq3s3 said:
SJB358":1ugnq3s3 said:
Man, I gotta try MAP guess... You all cost me alot of darned money! HA!

WE cost YOU a lot of money. (In my best Dr. Evil voice) Riiiight. Hello, Pot? This is Kettle...

Oh you heard it right Kurt.... Speaking of Evil Doctors, he seems to be missing from this....
 
There's an evil doctor lurking around??? :shock: That's why I'm staying clear of this thread.
 
I really love this system.

http://www.cartridgeanneal.com/

For brass that is worked a bit more, such as FL size with factory dies, I'll anneal about every 2nd shot. Brass that is worked less, such as in custom dies fit to the chamber, I'll hold until about 3-4 shots down range. Works quite well for me. The Anneal Rite system is VERY fast.

Alan
 
That is a great system Alan. I will need it for my new build.
 
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