Breaking in a powder dispenser?

Newysan

Beginner
Jan 4, 2009
82
0
Greetings. I have used a Belding and Mull for some time but decided to try a Harrels powder dispenser. It is really smooth operating but was not quite as consistent as the old B&M. In conversation with friends one mentioned that I should have run a bunch of graphite through it to " break it in". They said graphite is an ingredient of powder and a good thorough coating will make it more consistent. News to me. Any thoughts on this subject?
Thanks in advance. Newysan
 
I must say that I haven't heard of that. Whilst some powders are coated with graphite, not all are; some use other materials as deterrents. I should not imagine that the small amount of graphite that would remain after coating would not harm anything. However, it is difficult for me to imagine that it will actually cause the dispenser to work without binding. The design of any drum-type measure will "cut" stick powders. The only measure I've ever heard of that claims not to bind or cut powder is the Quick Measure (http://www.quick-measure.com/index.htm), and I am unable to speak from experience on this one. I have gone to a silver spoon for measuring test loads and the RCBS ChargeMaster for volume jobs.
 
I would not muck up the harrel they are very nice. I do not think there is any differance in accuracy between new and used measures but the is a fine dust from any powder that once attached keeps grain of powder from staticly sticking to the plastic parts.

I use both Black colored powder like AA1680, Lilgun. and light green powders like H4895,H322. I assume the dark powder use graghite as a burn control agent while the others use physical size/shape and other ingredients to control burn rate.
 
If the new one is not a consistent as the old, I would probably lay a lot of the blame on your technique... you've used the B&M for so long you have a particular rhythm with it that you haven't yet mastered with the Harrel.

Plus, the B&M has had a number of years for the interconnecting parts to mate with each other.
 
I agree with Kurt on that, try using different technique. FYI, I shake out and clean my Lyman 55 every couple of months to keep it for getting too much powder deterrent dust in the mechanism and to make sure that I do not mix powders. I have been using the Model 55 for 50 years now though (the same one).
 
Folks Thanks for the good input, it's spot on as usual. I do try and be as consistent as a ham fisted klutz can be but I will try even harder. I must admit the old B&M is well worn in. I have made it a practice to keep it "topped off" just to eliminate another variable and will do with the Harrels also. One nice thing these days is the powder companies are producing more "metering" friendly material, which helps out. I try and get close weight wise and then hit exact with the tickler. Time consuming put it is paying off. Again thanks for the feedback. Be safe. Newysan
 
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