Check Them Ring Screws

[ColColt]

Lessons learned. I had been having some accuracy issues with a Model 70(new) 270 and could not get the groups I felt the rifle was capable of. I wasn't expecting bench rest accuracy from a FW hunting rifle but new it could do better. I went up and down the latter with loads, different bullets and still nothing helped much. I decided to swap the scope out and maybe try another one and that's when I found the rear most bottom screw on the Talley split rings was loose. I had installed the mounts and rings per their recommendations with a torque screwdriver and felt I had done all I could do. I never checked them again after mounting the scope...wrong decision.

I never put Loctite on scope rings or mounts but wonder if perhaps I shouldn't after this episode. One thing's for sure. Before the next range outing I'll not only check the stock screws but also the ring screws, henceforth. That was in all probability the reason 3/4" groups suddenly went to 1 1/2"-2".

 

[DrMike]

Good post. We all need to be reminded that it is the simple things that make for accuracy or ensure that we can't hit squat.

 

[Darkhorse]

When I mount rings or bases for the final time I always use loc-tite regardless of manu. recommendations. After all; It;s my hunt, my time, my shot.
40 or so years ago I brought home a tube of red loctite from my job as a Tool&Die apprentice. I still got that tube as all it's used for is scope rings and bases. I clean my screws with alcohol before using the loctite.
With the right tools and technique I've never had a problem getting those old parts off after many years.

 

[ColColt]

I know there are those the use Blue or Purple Loctite but none I know use the red. Looks that that would be a bear to get loose. Red is considered permanate. Better like that scope mount from what I hear.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I use Loktite 222 which is the blue formula. It never sets up and gets hard and screws always can pretty easily be removed. I use it on all mount and ring screws with 24 inch/lbs of torque.

 

[PJGunner]

"I know there are those the use Blue or Purple Loctite but none I know use the red. Looks that that would be a bear to get loose. Red is considered permanate. Better like that scope mount from what I hear."

I use the Red Loctite and while it's supposed to be permanent there is a way. It will loosen up with heat. I have a semi-antique soldering iron used to sweat copper pipe jpoints that is probably at least as old as I am. (75 :shock: ) Takes over an hour to heat up but with the rifle properly clamped in a padded vice, put the tip of that very heavy iron on the head of the screw for bout one or two minutes and they usually come right out. I like doing it that way rather than using a propane torch that has a tiny flame point.
Paul B.

 

[PJGunner]

Thinking about loose scope rings, one day before that commie newspaper decided to quit having guns for sale ads there was a guy selling a Ruger M77 tang safety rifle for sale. The ad just said, "Ruger M77 cheap." I just had to go see it expecting a beater. The rifle was cherry and he was asking $200 with the scope of $150 without. :shock: I said I had more than enough scopes so paid him the $150 and he proceeded to remove the scope, Every screw in the rings was so loose they almost fell out. I told him that if you tighten those screws properly the rifle would be accurate. The string of cuss words after that was something to behold. OK, so be it. I kept my mouth shut. Figured I did my part to keep him from being what I felt was being ripped off by his own ignorance. Stoppedd off at the house, put a scope on the rifle, hit my local LGC which was a block and a half from the house and beat it to the range. Couple of shots at 25 yards and then sighted in at 100. Factory Remington 150 gr. shot right into one inch. Three shot groups.
I did some load work and about two weeks later I'm at the range shooting the "new" .308 and the guy who sold me the rifle was at the next bench. He bought a Remington M700 ADL and was having trouble sighting in. He asked how the Ruger was shooting so we checked out my targer with it's tiny well under an inch groups. He then asked what I'd done to make that rifle shoot so well. I said nothing. The gun is exactly as you sold it. All I did was put a scope on it and made sure the screws were tight. He then asked me to help him with the new rifle. First thing I did was check all the screws. You guessed it they were loose. When I asked him why he left them that way, he told me he didn't want to strip them. All the screws were loose or barely tightened. After getting that done is was a piece of cake to get that rifle sighted in.
I kind of wished I'd kept that Ruger. About three weeks later a friend had a Ruger M77 RSI he wanted to swap off and me being a sucker for full stocked rifles made the swap. Besides that, my wife had appropriated the one I had so in reality this one was for her. FWIW, I now have three of those rifles, all in .308 Win. :lol:
Paul B.

 

[Darkhorse]

I know there are those the use Blue or Purple Loctite but none I know use the red. Looks that that would be a bear to get loose. Red is considered permanate. Better like that scope mount from what I hear.

I have never had a problem removing screws locked with red loctite. Perhaps the fact that I have used a lot of thread locking compounds in various applications during the course of my career helps some.
When I am removing scope rings and bases I always pad down good in a vise, then using a gun screwdriver that fits the screw I give it a couple of sharp taps to help loosen the loctite. Then with pressure applied straight down into the slot slowly turn the screw out, being aware of slippage the entire time.

I also use Red Loctite when fitting a dovetail sight to a pistol slide and that does bring up a point to bear in mind. If you get a layer of red loctite between the scope base and receiver the base will come up, but the thin layer of dried loctite most likely won't.
Don't ask how I know that.

 

[Oldtrader3]

If Loctite won't break loose, heat it with a soldering iron to over 250*F and it will let go.

Also chlorinated solvents (i.e. acetone) should dissolve Loctite.

 

[Razorbacker]

I agree about checking action screws first thing. But on mount screws, blue Loctite is my friend.
To each his own and all that but I have neither the time or patience to wait on soldering irons to heat up then hold them on individual screw heads, there are 4 and some times 8 of those, on the rings alone.
But rock on red Loctite guys.

 

[sask boy]

I used blue loctite for years and never had a problem. But after a post here a month or so ago I was able to purchase 222 purple and have now switched out the scopes on my main three rifles :wink:! If purple does the job there is no use looking for trouble.

Blessings,
Dan

 

[Oldtrader3]

I use a set of Italian (Felo) torque driver handles in two sizes with Loctite 222. The lower torque driver sets in 1 inch lbs increments from 10-25 in lbs and the second torque driver handle runs from 25 to 40 inch lbs torque.

Plus the screws for the TPS rings are SAE wrought steel torque rated. They will not break after a few times of being set to torque, like the Leupold screws will.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

I'm gonna recommend purple Loctite (222)...

I used the blue (242) for years with no problems at all, then had a nice rifle ruined because the blue locked up tight....don't know why or how it did it, but it did.

Heat wouldn't budge it...nearly 600 degrees and it was stuck as tight as a weld.

 

[ColColt]

I noticed the set of new Leupold DD rings and 2-piece DD mounts I received the other day had the screws with a drop of what appears to be blue Loctite.

 

[Oldtrader3]

Leupold mount screws and ring screws seemed always be the brand that came loose. I am glad that they finally are doing something about it.

 

[BK]

I use a set of Italian (Felo) torque driver handles in two sizes with Loctite 222. The lower torque driver sets in 1 inch lbs increments from 10-25 in lbs and the second torque driver handle runs from 25 to 40 inch lbs torque.

Plus the screws for the TPS rings are SAE wrought steel torque rated. They will not break after a few times of being set to torque, like the Leupold screws will.

I thought Felo was German, Charlie? Or do they build the torque drivers in Italy?

 

[Oldtrader3]

My bad, they are made in Hessen, DL. I fell 6 feet down a set of stone steps 3 weeks ago and embossed several of the small rocks on the concrete driveway into my forehead. You can still see their impressions in my forehead. The doctor did a CT and said that I had a concussion which was slurring my speech for a few days.

This on top of having had MRSA pneumonia since January first and not getting proper treatment because my retirement insurance was changed on April 1st and the new insurance does not cover antibiotics adequately. In fact, I had to have a 16 inch PICC (catheter) put into my heart yesterday because my doctor's Nurse can not fill out a pre authorization request (simple form) for my oral antibiotic properly and as a result, I have been getting IV antibiotics by driving 60 miles each day for a 2 hour IV pump session of Vancomycin. This all because I have not been able to get this nurse to do her job and get my paperwork approved for oral Zyvox.

I notice that I have made more graphic and typo mistakes than normal this past week and I apologize for my infirmities. Another week of IV infusions and I should be better.

 

[BK]

No problem, amigo. Hope you get it all straightened out. I just noticed it because I've been frequenting an tool forum lately, and bought a few Felo screwdrivers.

Word to the wise: frequenting tool forums is as bad for your checking account as this place is...

 

[Oldtrader3]

Tool forums are dangerous places to spend money that is not discretionary. I have noticed that myself.