cleaning the action / hard to reach places

[TackDriver284]

I took two rifles to the garage bench and removed bolts to clean and grease / oil raceways. Upon inspection, I saw gunks of grease and dirt with a couple of kernels stuck on the outside perimeter behind the chamber where the bolt lug recesses are located. I could only reach part of it with a Q Tip dipped in some carb cleaner and wiped some of the grease / dirt out. I used a few squirts of Gun Clean spray with a straw and blow out with compressed air. Are there any kits that you guys use to clean inside the action and hard to reach places?

Side note, the kernels of powder stuck in there was when I missed priming a case. :roll:

 

[Dr. Vette]

I've run them in a large ultrasonic cleaner we have here at work if I need them really clean. But, I realize that's not practical for most. It works really well, though.

 

[Anonymous]

I've used aerosol degreasers/cleaners to get into those areas you can't reach... works great for getting that kind of crud gone.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I've used aerosol degreasers/cleaners to get into those areas you can't reach... works great for getting that kind of crud gone.

Brake cleaner, just be careful which type you get.

 

[Nimrod84]

TackDriver284,

I haven't had my coffee yet, so I have an alibi if I misunderstood your question.

Personally, I use a Sinclair flexible chamber swab tool with a standard patch holder or an AR chamber brush and 12 gauge shotgun patches. If I were to buy an actual kit, I would lean towards the Dewey or SinClair kits. The Tipton and Pro-Shot kits have very skinny handles, and frankly I'm clumsy and need something to grip-onto.

Edited to add - Specifically, I've been wanting to buy the Dewey Rifle Lug Recess Cleaning Kit without Cleaning Rod Bolt Action for about $10 on MidwayUSA... Should attach to my flexible chamber tool or a standard 8x32 threaded cleaning rod.

Hope I'm not too far off the mark.

 

[5shot]

I have one of these, but I only use it on the rare occasion...

 

[TackDriver284]

That looks sweet 5shot.

Nimrod, thanks for the heads up and great write up.

 

[DrMike]

I have one of these, but I only use it on the rare occasion...

That is the setup I use. I do buy my "cleaning felts" from a local dentist, 1000 at a time. That way, I don't feel inhibited about using what is needed.

 

[Gun nut]

I have the Sinclair Action cleaning kit. It is better than nothing.
Duane

 

[kraky1]

I have the hillbilly version of the Sinclair cleaning kit.... I have a short cleaning rod with a 44 mag brush on it at all times.... I wrap it in varying layers of heavy duty shop towel strips.. or a plunge to 12 gauge shotgun patch with some solvent on it.
Luckily the finale to cleaning is a little more modern by checking things out with a Lyman borescope to make sure nothing is Left Behind...lol!

 

[SJB358]

I have one of these, but I only use it on the rare occasion...

Same kit here.

 

[thatguySHM]

Which brake cleaner do you recommend? Or I suppose what do you stay away from? What additives should we avoid? And why?

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[DrMike]

I have used brake cleaners for years. Carbon tetrachloride works to clean grease from metal. Make certain you have good ventilation when you spray. For this reason, I prefer to do my action cleaning at the range before my final casing of the firearms.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Which brake cleaner do you recommend? Or I suppose what do you stay away from? What additives should we avoid? And why?

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My favorite used to be the AutoZone brand, but I think they changed suppliers about a year ago. I use the non-chlorinated one. The CRC brand works too, but costs more.

I have an automotive brake project coming up. I may buy a few brands and test them on a car to see which one may work best on a rifle.

 

[truck driver]

CRC makes a dielectric cleaner that works well and won't etch the metal like brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner will.

 

[Polaris]

I prefer starting fluid (ether) to brake parts cleaner. BPC can be a little tough on some metal finishes over time, and it is a big no-no for plastics and lens coatings. Ether is relatively safe for these, but will remove poly or varnish based stock finishes. It does a fantastic job on anything carbon or oil based, and is quite cheap. USE OUTDOORS AWAY FROM IGNITION SOURCES. It does have the potential to create an explosive atmosphere or asphyxiate. The fumes are not nearly as toxic as brake cleaner, and I've found it to cut fouling just as well, flush the residue out of crevices, and dry with only a very thin film (upper cylinder lubricant) which provides some corrosion protection. I use a variety of toothbrushes, detailing brushes and various picks and scrapers made from brass or aluminum wire stock flattened to a "screwdriver" like blade on the end and trued up with a file to clean the really tough spots, especially on my AR-15.