Guard Screws

[RiverRider]

I have always believed that when putting the stock back on a rifle, the forward guard screw should be tightened first and then the rear screw snugged up. I have just learned that Weatherby suggests the opposite. I don't have access to any of my owner's manuals right now. What do you guys say?

 

[Oldtrader3]

Winchester says tighten the srcew under the action ring and recoil lug first then tang second, last srew through action box is last with less torque than the other two.

 

[LD375]

Snug the the rear, and then snug the front..Tighten the rear, and then the front...Also depends on which model you have too?..each rifle is different..Lou

 

[RiverRider]

I know on Ruger 77s it's crony fort. My Remongton and Winchester manuals do not specify an order.

 

[FOTIS]

Snug the the rear, and then snug the front..Tighten the rear, and then the front...Also depends on which model you have too?..each rifle is different..Lou

YUP and get a torque wrench to record the #'s for uniformity. That is the most important part!

 

[RiverRider]

I know on Ruger 77s it's crony fort. My Remongton and Winchester manuals do not specify an order.

LOL! Dam-I-phone!!!

I know on Ruger 77s it's front first

This iPhone may be smarter than I am but it's still a dumb SOB.

 

[FOTIS]

And on sale!!!

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718023 ... crewdriver

 

[DrMike]

Excellent price,

 

[SJB358]

And on sale!!!

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718023 ... crewdriver

I LOVE the FAT Wrench, BUT, their bits are crap. Decent for normal use, but the slotted bits flex too much when torquing down screws, leads to marred screws. Like I said, the Fat wrench is excellent and I use mine all the time, but I need to find some proper bits that won't flex or move when torquing guard screws. Made in America bits wouldn't hurt either.

 

[FOTIS]

Here you go!


http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewIt ... =314692167

 

[SJB358]

That's what I have Fotis. Wouldn't recommend it. Bits are soft and flex. Brownells has a great kit but is about a 100.00. Might have to save up for it though.

 

[FOTIS]

Darn it. You're right. Got confused! I posted the wrong picture!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Magnatips.

This is what I want!!!!!

 

[Ridgerunner665]

I got me a FAT wrench a while back...and was quite pleasantly surprised at the difference proper torque on the screws made with my rifle.

Before...

After...exact same load, loaded with the exact same components (same lots of powder, primer, brass, and bullets)

The middle screw does nothing except hold the trigger guard on on most rifles (no floor plates)...bottom metal or not though, the middle screw should be torqued to no more than 15 in. lbs. with a little thread sealer to keep it from vibrating loose (not LocTite...)

 

[FOTIS]

I had my sunthetic 300 RUM Sako 75 go from 2.5" to .675" at 300 yards. going from 35-45 inch pounds!

 

[SJB358]

Yep. Those are the ones Fotis! They are spendy but look worth it.

 

[DrMike]

The Magna-Tip set has a good reputation.

 

[elkeater2]

I went with a regular inch-pound torque wrench. Beefy guts, easier feel when hitting the break point. Or, I can pretend I'm a real mechanic.
EE2

 

[FOTIS]

I went with a regular inch-pound torque wrench. Beefy guts, easier feel when hitting the break point. Or, I can pretend I'm a real mechanic.
EE2

Got one of them from Sears! :mrgreen:

 

[DrMike]

I went with a regular inch-pound torque wrench. Beefy guts, easier feel when hitting the break point. Or, I can pretend I'm a real mechanic.
EE2

In my case, regardless of the tools, I would be pretending. :grin:

 

[RiverRider]

I think I need a torque tool of some kind!