I would like to practice .

[RAY]

Reading Nosler and Speer manuals about case prep.
Is there just a decapping die , cause these manuals say to decap before you clean.
It is said not to run dirty cases in your dies.
I want to practice with my RP cases with my FL die.
Is it a bad idea to use a solvent like brake and parts cleaner on brass ?

 

[elkeater2]

Ray,
Yes, Lee and others make a 'Universal Decapping Die" with a body opening large enough for most everything. They aren't very expensive, and do enable you to get primers out before cleaning. You can use an FL die backed out a turn or two from the actual resizing setting and accomplish pretty much the same thing. Unless you really have the resizing setting marked accurately, though, it is a pain making sure it gets set the same. Just decap with it backed out without moving the locking ring at all. Essentially that's why the universal die is so handy.

Brake and parts cleaner is stinky, volatile, and overkill for cleaning cases, especially prior to decapping in a resizing die. Unless they are truly filthy range pick-up brass, the ones you fired and loaded probably just need a quick wipe off. I use the blue paper shop towels and a little rubbing alcohol prior to decapping. Books are being written about brass care and prep - these are just a couple suggestions!
EE2

 

[RAY]

Ray,
Yes, Lee and others make a 'Universal Decapping Die" with a body opening large enough for most everything. They aren't very expensive, and do enable you to get primers out before cleaning. You can use an FL die backed out a turn or two from the actual resizing setting and accomplish pretty much the same thing. Unless you really have the resizing setting marked accurately, though, it is a pain making sure it gets set the same. Just decap with it backed out without moving the locking ring at all. Essentially that's why the universal die is so handy.

Brake and parts cleaner is stinky, volatile, and overkill for cleaning cases, especially prior to decapping in a resizing die. Unless they are truly filthy range pick-up brass, the ones you fired and loaded probably just need a quick wipe off. I use the blue paper shop towels and a little rubbing alcohol prior to decapping. Books are being written about brass care and prep - these are just a couple suggestions!
EE2

Thanks , I'll do the alcohol and try the FL die for decapping setting.
I'm new to reloading and haven't reloaded a thing yet.
I want to use my 3006 RP cases for practice to have my FL die set up for proper shoulder bump.

Thanks !

 

[elkeater2]

You're welcome. Please keep in mind there's a ton of knowledge on this forum, and I expressed to you only my personal advice and experience. Hoping others will join in. As you are new to reloading I suggest you refer to those manuals often - and read a little between the lines.
Some take brass cleaning and polishing to ridiculous lengths, as I have in the past. Truth is, brass fired in your rifles, loaded by you, do not need much cleaning in order to reload and use once more. It is more important to check for stretching and trim and chamfer case mouths when needed. Many of us just like shiny stuff. Welcome to our passion, you are on one of the BEST forums related to shooting and loading. Absolutely the greatest people, all helpful, no bashing, trolling, or flaming going on here!
EE2

 

[RAY]

You're welcome. Please keep in mind there's a ton of knowledge on this forum, and I expressed to you only my personal advice and experience. Hoping others will join in. As you are new to reloading I suggest you refer to those manuals often - and read a little between the lines.
Some take brass cleaning and polishing to ridiculous lengths, as I have in the past. Truth is, brass fired in your rifles, loaded by you, do not need much cleaning in order to reload and use once more. It is more important to check for stretching and trim and chamfer case mouths when needed. Many of us just like shiny stuff. Welcome to our passion, you are on one of the BEST forums related to shooting and loading. Absolutely the greatest people, all helpful, no bashing, trolling, or flaming going on here!
EE2

The people here is the reason I'm still here. Very good forum !
The alcohol trick cleaned up the case mouth and surprisingly there was no residue on the q-tip.
I haven't set my die up yet , still thinking about and looking for something for my partner press.

 

[DrMike]

EE2 has given you the straight skinny. It's not necessary to decap before you clean, though it can be convenient. This is especially true if you use something such as a Thumler's Tumbler or an RCBS Sidewinder Case Tumbler to clean brass. I keep several rolls of blue shop towels at hand for wiping down my cases. After tumbling cases in a Thumler's Model B, I dry in a dehydrator. It is convenient and fast.

 

[RAY]

Thanks Dr.Mike , my space is limited so I'll probably be going to more of a labor method in cleaning out the carbon .
Like EE2 said , I'll be more concerned with the integrity of the brass opposed to shiny .
If you guys have any suggestions lm all eyes since seeing is how I be learnin'

 

[Elkman]

Some take brass cleaning and polishing to ridiculous lengths, as I have in the past. Truth is, brass fired in your rifles, loaded by you, do not need much cleaning in order to reload and use once more. It is more important to check for stretching and trim and chamfer case mouths when needed.

EE2, says it for me. Shiny ammo is great to look at, clean ammo functions just as well. I always decap my brass, before tumbling. Then clean the left over stuff, after. I always have a little "stuff" in the bottom of the primer pocket. Can't get it all out. It's not necessary anyway. The primer flash hole "must" be clear. I do deburr all of my cases. I reload for hunting, not for target shooting or competition, my loaded stuff always gets the job done.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I just use Imperial Sizing Wax on my cases for lube. They come out pretty clean and I just wipe them with an old t-shirt.

 

[wildgene]

...I like this set-up, the white mica doesn't cause any issues w/ powder contamination & leaves a fine white line on your case neck that shows just how much you've sized, giving you a good, repeatable reference. I still roll the cases on a pad to lube the body, stuck cases aren't all that much fun...

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/197010 ... uctFinding

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/212429 ... 2124290522

 

[Oldtrader3]

I have had issues with Mica and use glass balls permeated with graphite. Tis is the bomb as far as I am concerned and is low drag, especially with a carbide sizing ball.

 

[hubcap]

Reading Nosler and Speer manuals about case prep.
Is there just a decapping die , cause these manuals say to decap before you clean.
It is said not to run dirty cases in your dies.
I want to practice with my RP cases with my FL die.
Is it a bad idea to use a solvent like brake and parts cleaner on brass ?

There is a product made for reloaders that want clean brass. Its called birchwood casey case cleaner. It works great. You still have to clean your primer pocket with the primer pocket hand tool. :wink:

 

[RAY]

Reading Nosler and Speer manuals about case prep.
Is there just a decapping die , cause these manuals say to decap before you clean.
It is said not to run dirty cases in your dies.
I want to practice with my RP cases with my FL die.
Is it a bad idea to use a solvent like brake and parts cleaner on brass ?

There is a product made for reloaders that want clean brass. Its called birchwood casey case cleaner. It works great. You still have to clean your primer pocket with the primer pocket hand tool. :wink:

I looked it up and said (basically ) it cleans inside and out .
I'm gonna get some and sit on it for when I need it.

 

[hubcap]

I have used it a lot Ray. It will clean out the carbon and any resizing lube from inside and outside. Follow the directions on the bottle and your all set.