looking for a reliable 45ACP load

onlybrowning · Apr 7, 2009

I just bought my first semi auto pistol. It is a Ruger P97DC. I have 200 grain Hornady XTP's to load. I am in need of input on which powder to use. I am looking for reliability. I have never loaded anything with a taper crimp, and I have never loaded for a semi auto. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

Rob

Bruce Mc · Apr 7, 2009

You cant' go wrong with Winchester 231. Its worked well for a lot of years.

FOTIS · Apr 7, 2009

Unique and AA 5 work well also.

RiverRider · Apr 7, 2009

I'll second Bruce's motion. Interestingly enough, Bruce gave me some .45 ACP dies when I was looking for an extra seater die. He's one of the good guys.

Howdy Bruce, small world, huh?

JD338 · Apr 7, 2009

I load 230 gr in my 45 ACP with W231. This powder shoots clean.
I have also used Clays Universal with similar results.

JD338

Bruce Mc · Apr 7, 2009

River, I'm doing just fine. How did your 45 project work out.

old #7 · Apr 7, 2009

onlybrowning":7gejx2tq said:
I just bought my first semi auto pistol. It is a Ruger P97DC. I have 200 grain Hornady XTP's to load. I am in need of input on which powder to use. I am looking for reliability. I have never loaded anything with a taper crimp, and I have never loaded for a semi auto. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

Rob

The 45 auto head spaces on the case mouth. So.... case lenght is important. That is why you taper crimp instead of roll crimp.
I have shot unique and clays with great results.
The best all around load will have a 230 grn bullet in it around 800fps.
You can get more velocity out of a lighter bullet or stiffer load but, you will also get more recoil wich translates into longer recovery time and poor accuracy.
When you set up your taper crimp die it is important to seat the bullet to the recomended coal first. Screw your die in until it touches the shell holder. back it off two turns. seat the bullet to COAL. Back the seater plug off a few turns. Place the seated cartridge back in the shell holder and bring it to the top of the stroke. Screw in the die untill you feel resistance. This is where the taper crimp starts crimping. Keep screwing the die in until the case holds the bullet firmly. Check this by pushing the cartrige against your loading bench with moderate pressure. You don't want the bullet to get seated farther into the case when it hits the feed ramp.
After you find the proper crimp bring the ram to the top of the stroke, lock down the die body and screw in the seater plug until it touches the bullet.
Load another round and check it again.
Oh yeah.... Don't forget to have a good time shooting your hand loaded ammo.

RiverRider · Apr 8, 2009

Bruce, I don't shoot that much of any of my semi-autos because of the difficulties in finding my brass at a range used by so many other shooters, so as a consequence I have not reloaded any .45 ACP in many years. I still have several hundred rounds on the shelf. I do have some empties, though and I am going to need to test a slightly reduced load. I loaded 6.0 grains of W231 under a Lyman #452460 in the old days, but I want to back off to 5.5 grains and I do not have the same pistol. I'll probably at least load some test rounds sometime this spring to see how the 5.5 grain charge works out. It will be a pleasure to use the fourth die, and that is a practice I have adopted for all handgun calibers. I am sure the results will be great, at least as far as the seating & crimping process goes. Hopefully the new load will perform as well as the old.

big rifle man · Apr 8, 2009

I've been using universal clays for my 200 grain XTP's and found it actually burns cleaner than 231 which I also use a lot of. As far as crimping I've found that it may be better to crimp in a separate operation. I normally seat my bullets first and then take the seater portion of the die out and set the taper crimp up. using both at the same time will at times crush the case if not done correctly. Case length as mentioned previously is very important.

Ol` Joe · Apr 8, 2009

I`ve had the exact same pistol for ~5 years and have yet to find a load it won`t feed and shoot with exceptable accuracy. I load for a 45 acp Kimber also and the Ruger is less fussy across the board IMO. Although the Ruger is somewhat bulky feeling in hand and ugly as bar babe in the morning next to the Kimber, it is a very dependable pistol.
I like VV n-320 or Titegroup for light/mid range target/plinking loads with 200 gr LSWC of the #68 design. Penn and Master cast both are sources of this bullet. I use PowerPistol under either 185gr Nosler HPs or 230 gr Speer Gold Dots for heavy defence/woods carry. The VV power is by far the cleanest power I have used if that is a concideration. Titegroup is a bit sooty at lower charges IMO, but a lot of powders react that way to low pressure. Velocity is very consistant with all loads I`ve settled on.
The cartridge actually is very easy to load and most any powder of a fast to medium fast speed will work. BullsEye, WW231, Clays, Unique, AA5-7, all have proven to work great.
I`d start my COL at the recommended lenght Speer has in thier book for it. You can play with it if you have feed problems, but I have found the makers suggestion for lenght is usually real close to perfect. If you do have trouble with feeding adjust in small steps and stop once the gun is feeding reliably.
Brass will shrink the 1st time it is fired and trimming is a non-existant chore with the 45acp. I trim my brass after the 1st firing to even them up for belling and crimping, but don`t recall ever trimming a case a 2nd time. You`ll lose them before wearing them out if you shoot outside. Keep the crimp just tight enough to remove the belling. The case "neck" should supply enough tension on the bullet to hold it and the crimp is to ensure feeding and provide headspace.
Enjoy! You are going to have a ball with your 97DC, I do with mine.