Thebear_78
Handloader
- Sep 30, 2004
- 3,090
- 836
The scope base is milled to fit the barrel contour. Its not terribly difficult if you have the right math skills, sadly I don’t, but my buddy does.
I think those big eared sights are probably some of the best open sights ever made for a big game hunting rifle. There is really no way to mount a conventional scope on the rifle with those big sights sitting back there. I removed the elevator portion of the sight and drilled it out a touch to make a ghost ring. You could throw it out of an airplane and I bet those sights would still be fine.
Shown with and without the scope. The light is for night time bear defense. I actually have used this to stop charging bears and I think the bright light and manly screaming (kinda manly?) are what stopped the charge. I use this same light on several different guns, was on the 375 RUM when used to stop a charge.
As to using the scout scope. The biggest thing is that you have to get over the fact that it isn’t a conventional scope. You can’t expect it to act like one. The scout scope is at its best with both eyes open using it more like a holosight or red dot than a scope. Another mistake is to try shooting at the normal grid style targets. Instead shoot at large solid color circular targets, 6-8” circles, red or yellow work best for me. It is possible to aim for the center of that circular target even at longer ranges. It takes a little practice but can be done.
When in use the scout is highly practical. At normal hunting ranges it is fast and accurate. There is a reason that they champion these things for tactical/practical use.
As to reboring your original barrel I would look at the 9.3x66 aka 370 sako, its based of 06 basic brass so it should be easier to make brass for than the 9.3x62. I have seen people make brass for 9.3x62 from 06 brass but its not quite as long. The 375 and 400 whelen are also really cool cartridges. there are some pretty cool .411 bullets on the market now to choose from. It would make a cool hammer for bears and elk.
I think those big eared sights are probably some of the best open sights ever made for a big game hunting rifle. There is really no way to mount a conventional scope on the rifle with those big sights sitting back there. I removed the elevator portion of the sight and drilled it out a touch to make a ghost ring. You could throw it out of an airplane and I bet those sights would still be fine.
Shown with and without the scope. The light is for night time bear defense. I actually have used this to stop charging bears and I think the bright light and manly screaming (kinda manly?) are what stopped the charge. I use this same light on several different guns, was on the 375 RUM when used to stop a charge.
As to using the scout scope. The biggest thing is that you have to get over the fact that it isn’t a conventional scope. You can’t expect it to act like one. The scout scope is at its best with both eyes open using it more like a holosight or red dot than a scope. Another mistake is to try shooting at the normal grid style targets. Instead shoot at large solid color circular targets, 6-8” circles, red or yellow work best for me. It is possible to aim for the center of that circular target even at longer ranges. It takes a little practice but can be done.
When in use the scout is highly practical. At normal hunting ranges it is fast and accurate. There is a reason that they champion these things for tactical/practical use.
As to reboring your original barrel I would look at the 9.3x66 aka 370 sako, its based of 06 basic brass so it should be easier to make brass for than the 9.3x62. I have seen people make brass for 9.3x62 from 06 brass but its not quite as long. The 375 and 400 whelen are also really cool cartridges. there are some pretty cool .411 bullets on the market now to choose from. It would make a cool hammer for bears and elk.
