Neck turning vs. reaming

salmonchaser

Ammo Smith
Dec 13, 2013
5,200
5,774
After reading an awful number of posts it appears I need to add this step to my reloading. I just searched midway USA and all the tools were on back order. Is reaming sufficient to solve the neck thickness issue?
 
SChaser, I use a PMA Tool Model A neck turner. It's a high quality tool.

http://www.pmatool.com

You'll need a turner with the appropriate cutting angle, an expander mandrel, and a stainless or carbide neck turning mandrel. I have used both stainless and carbide neck turning mandrels. The carbide is nicer to use, but the stainless works fine also. And you'll need some lubricant. And a caseholder, caseholder driver, and an electric drill.

What cartridge are you going to neck turn?
 
I will initially be working with my 338 Jarrett. Given the shortages of 8mm Remington brass I'm going to try 375 h$h brass. Most of the 8mm brass I have is getting old and from what I've been reading it likely needs to be turned. Resizing the 375 to8mm will likely force me to turn those.
Otherwise a half dozen other calibers.
 
Depending on your chamber neck dimensions, I'd test one case first, then if you are forced to neck turn, and only then, would I bother neck turning your ammo.

I have never seen a noticeable difference in accuracy vs. non-neck turned ammo on any of the custom hunting guns I own. Bench rest guys do it mainly because they run tight necks in their chambers. Kenny himself has never had to turn a single neck in thousands of guns he's built in any of his proprietary cartridges, waste of time he told me.

If you're forced to turn the necks do them first before sizing down for the best results, and use a good lube inside the necks and not graphite based products (too much friction if you do and the inside of the neck will cause galling).

If it were me, I would waste my time. Spend the time spent on better brass.
 
I have a fairly tight neck with my .338 Baer's and dont have to turn necks using 375 H&H brass. Winchester brass has thinner necks then Remington brass
 
I wouldn't get all worked up over turning necks. It's rather easy once you have the tools and get started. I've got several different neck turning tools and they're all fairly easy to use.
 
joelkdouglas":1lnu8xye said:
SChaser, I use a PMA Tool Model A neck turner. It's a high quality tool.

http://www.pmatool.com

You'll need a turner with the appropriate cutting angle, an expander mandrel, and a stainless or carbide neck turning mandrel. I have used both stainless and carbide neck turning mandrels. The carbide is nicer to use, but the stainless works fine also. And you'll need some lubricant. And a caseholder, caseholder driver, and an electric drill.

What cartridge are you going to neck turn?

I use this tool also, extremely accurate adjument features and a pleasure to use for a job that for many isn't always pleasant to do. Fellas that started and run the company were tool designers/ engineers for Sinclairs and are great to deal with, excellent customer service.
JME,
BD1
 
There are 2 reasons to outside neck turn, so your neck will fit in a tight necked chamber and to make your neck brass thickness more consistent.

I have 3 custom chambers that I HAVE to outside turn down to a certain thickness:

6.5 rem mag with a .292" neck
280AI with a .313" neck
338RUM with a .366" neck

On each of these I have to do a complete turn in order to get .003" clearance around the neck in the chamber

DSCN0497.jpg


Besides the turner itself, the most important tool is a ball micrometer to measure your actual results (a hands free holder is also useful unless you have 3 hands)

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I use the Forster because it is simple, accurate and has a wide blade

DSCN1371.jpg

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also because it has a reamer attachment that will fit in the inside mandrel hole

DSCN0726.jpg

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DSCN0716.jpg


But the reamer will only work with tight necked chambers since the reamer is .003" ABOVE caliber. So you have to outside neck turn your brass to the exact thickness that will give you .003" clearance around the neck on new brass so that on once fired you can then use the reamer.

Kinda complicated but thought the pics might help
 
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