OK IM NEW PLEASE HELP

[sniperonthehill]

ok got a question can you use reloading data min and max powder wise on all bullets of that weight or will it be different for different bullets but same powder... im very new to reloading rifle shells and it has been stressed to me how important it is not to exceed max load so i was lookin for some help any takers??

 

[YoteSmoker]

I always compare different min-max and top performing powders in at least 3 different manuals. Sometimes there is a lot of variation, especially in the older manuals. The jackets on Nosler bullets are usually a lot tougher than most so they might top out with higher pressures than other bullets. With liability being what it is, you will most likely be safe if you stay within the book max, but always work up your test loads at least 10% below max and watch for pressure signs...flat primers, bulged webbing area, split necks. In most cases, I find the winning load within 1.5 grains of book max and rarely exceed but when I do, it's in half grain increments and paying attention to signs of pressure. Pressures will increase the closer the bullet is to the lands and also with increased temperature unless using low temp sensitive powders such as hodgens "extreme" powder lines.

Be extremely cautious of recommended loads from online forums. Always cross reference to the book and go by the book.

 

[Big Squeeze]

Anytime the components change, regardless if its the same bullet weight but a different maker, or when starting to reload for the 1st time for a rifle that you haven`t previously reloaded for, start low at the minimum or a grain above and work up a half grain at a time until you see pressure signs. When you see pressure signs, back off 1/2 grain and establish that as maximum for that rifle. When you change any one or a combo of components, start that same process over again. Make sure you record your findings.

Each rifle is its own individual. The max tolerance for one in the same identical cartridge and rifle, may not be the same for another.

 

[1Shot]

+1 on what BigSqueeze said. Always keep detailed data on your loads because you can not remember everything and be very careful with you ammo box and don't' drop it or turn it over and let all the rounds fall out and get mixed up. :roll: :roll: I won't admit to doing this myself

 

[DrMike]

Bullets from different manufacturers, to say nothing of differently constructed bullets, will likely have differing bearing surfaces. This changes the dynamics of the pressure curves generated. Therefore, it is always wise to drop back 5 to 10 % and work up carefully. As Big Squeeze has already said, whenever you change a component or a rifle, it is a good idea to drop back at least 5% and work up the load again to ensure that your load is safe.

Ditto on what 1Shot has said, keep detailed notes. The more information you record, the easier it is to avoid trouble at a later time or to reproduce what you have done previously.

YoteSmoker has also given you some excellent advice to compare several loads. Even if you use the excellent QuickLoad program, you are well advised to check it against pressure tested loads that are published. Anything you get off the Internet, with the exception of loads listed on powder and/or bullet manufacturer web sites, should be treated with great caution. There are some very optimistic people posting loads out there.

 

[flashhole]

Others kind of touched on this but no one elaborated on it .... all bullets are not created equal. Load data for premium bullets that are designed to hold up under "extreme" velocities can not be substituted for lesser integrity bullets of the same weight. Vise versa, load data for "standard" bullets may not provide adequate velocity for premium bullets to perform as designed.

I've had non-premium bullets from my 7mm Rem Mag disintegrate in flight that were loaded within the max premium bullet limits for the same weight. It's always best to stay with published load data for the bullet you intend to shoot. That being said, I have had good success substituting like capability bullets of the same weight ... i.e. a premium Nosler bullet will work like a premium Sierra bullet of the same weight will work like a premium Swift bullet of the same weight etc.

 

[FOTIS]

I would like to welcome you to the forum. As far as your question I can not really add anything. The fellas already did a good job.

 

[old #7]

Bullets from different manufacturers, to say nothing of differently constructed bullets, will likely have differing bearing surfaces. This changes the dynamics of the pressure curves generated. Therefore, it is always wise to drop back 5 to 10 % and work up carefully. As Big Squeeze has already said, whenever you change a component or a rifle, it is a good idea to drop back at least 5% and work up the load again to ensure that your load is safe.

Ditto on what 1Shot has said, keep detailed notes. The more information you record, the easier it is to avoid trouble at a later time or to reproduce what you have done previously.

YoteSmoker has also given you some excellent advice to compare several loads. Even if you use the excellent QuickLoad program, you are well advised to check it against pressure tested loads that are published. Anything you get off the Internet, with the exception of loads listed on powder and/or bullet manufacturer web sites, should be treated with great caution. There are some very optimistic people posting loads out there.

+1
The bearing surface of the bullet is the amount of contact the bullet has with the rifiling.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

"I've had non-premium bullets from my 7mm Rem Mag disintegrate in flight that were loaded within the max premium bullet limits for the same weight."

I dont understand this one bit. Would you please explain...

What the heck does a premium or non premium bullet have anything to do with desintegrating in flight when using the same powder and charge??? Unless your playing with fast twist and extreme velocity, I'd have to say this is about impossible to happen. A 7 RM doesn't push any bullet fast enough to come apart in the first place is what I'm getting at, again unless your using some extreme twist with the wrong weight of bullet.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

BTW- I own and have shot a 7 RM for quite some time now and have played with A LOT of bullets and powders. I"ve never ever seen what you describe by simply changing bullets and keeping the same powder/charge and ending up with desintegrating bullets.

 

[old #7]

Others kind of touched on this but no one elaborated on it .... all bullets are not created equal. Load data for premium bullets that are designed to hold up under "extreme" velocities can not be substituted for lesser integrity bullets of the same weight. Vise versa, load data for "standard" bullets may not provide adequate velocity for premium bullets to perform as designed.

I've had non-premium bullets from my 7mm Rem Mag disintegrate in flight that were loaded within the max premium bullet limits for the same weight. It's always best to stay with published load data for the bullet you intend to shoot. That being said, I have had good success substituting like capability bullets of the same weight ... i.e. a premium Nosler bullet will work like a premium Sierra bullet of the same weight will work like a premium Swift bullet of the same weight etc.

Don't substitute any bullet for another without refering to the manufactures manual of each bullet before loading.
If your load of "X" bullet on top of 57 grs of "A" powder with "A" primer comes out of "X" bullet manufactures manual you CAN NOT just blindly substitute "B" bullet for "X" based on the idea that the "X" bullet load didn't have any issues.

 

[sniperonthehill]

i recently purchased some .257 90gr barnes bonded soild spitzer and i have only reloaded 100gr barnes tsx, 75gr hornady v-max, and 120gr nosler partions and i have never had to start from scratch me and 3 of my freinds all have identical rifles and there the reloaders but over time we all have started to drift further apart so this time i guess i need to get my hands dirty so i was tryin to find some sort of load data on those bonded bullets as in min and max powder but i was tryin to find somthing with the powders i all ready have and soo far i have not been able to find anything with that bullet and my powders but i have found a few other 90gr bullets with those powders and all of them seem to have very close min and max and that is the reason i asked if i could swith out the bullet

 

[bobbyrum]

Welcome, sniperonthehill :grin: I agree with 1Shot, I won't admit to having dropped test loads & not been able to figiure out which was which either What I now do is number each test series with a felt pen on the side of the case 8) These no.'s correspond to the written data which is numbered in my log book

 

[bullet]

Welcome to the forum and you have had some great advice.

 

[Guest]

Check out this information from Barnes:

http://www.barnesbullets.com/informatio ... /data-257/

I understand it is a bit limited, but it shows the two best powders from Barnes' testing. If you need further guidance, you can contact Ty directly at Barnes support - he is pretty good about answering his email, though once in a while it takes a little longer to get a reply.

The advice you've received is spot-on. Start low, work up carefully in 1-2% increments, looking for pressure signs. If you don't own a chrony, save up and buy one. It's an invaluable tool for load work. Keep asking questions and you'll be fine.

 

[flashhole]

"I've had non-premium bullets from my 7mm Rem Mag disintegrate in flight that were loaded within the max premium bullet limits for the same weight."

I dont understand this one bit. Would you please explain...

Sure - My 7mm has a fast twist barrel, 1:7 I believe. I've had lead bullets fly apart and never reach a target placed 50 yards down range. The bullets were 175 grain lead bullets and the load I shot was developed for a Speer Grand Slam of the same weight. I've had the same thing happen in my 25-06 with 100 grain lead bullets only those were copper coated, not copper jacketed.

 

[JDMAG]

i recently purchased some .257 90gr barnes bonded soild spitzer and i have only reloaded 100gr barnes tsx, 75gr hornady v-max, and 120gr nosler partions and i have never had to start from scratch me and 3 of my freinds all have identical rifles and there the reloaders but over time we all have started to drift further apart so this time i guess i need to get my hands dirty so i was tryin to find some sort of load data on those bonded bullets as in min and max powder but i was tryin to find somthing with the powders i all ready have and soo far i have not been able to find anything with that bullet and my powders but i have found a few other 90gr bullets with those powders and all of them seem to have very close min and max and that is the reason i asked if i could swith out the bullet

Welcome Sniperonthehill, Mind if I just call you SOTH? You have already gotten the best advice available from the posts above. But have you and your friends drifted so far apart that you cant check with them to see what loads they were using in your gun? They should have the load data they were using. Good luck!
JDMAG