Old unfired Norma brass question

[tddeangelo]

So, digging through my reloading supplies, I came across a box of unfired Norma brass for my 257 Roberts. Score!

Then I realize that it's fairly old brass. I open the box flap and see a hand-written date of Oct 1968.

Is this brass ok for modern 257 Robts +P loads?

 

[nodak7mm]

TD,

I dont believe +P existed in 1968, so I would ere on the side of caution and start low and go from there. Its Norma brass so you ought to be able to push it.

The +P loading is for the firearm, rather than the brass. (I beleive it is an early marketing ploy to make us by special brass. Yeah like the big brass co is going to run an entire new run of same brass and make it 10-20% stronger,,, LOL. Pretty smart to put an additional 2 digits on the headstamp and imply that).

Today the brass is the weak link in the big picture, With modern firarms you can only push a certain lot of brass so far, regardless of velocity before you before you see psi issues arrise. Sometimes metalurigical issues come to light even with the bestest & newest brass. So in short, if your using a modern firearm, let your brass be your indicator of PSI. Rifle cartirdges of old, this did not necessarily apply, the limiting factor was more the receiver itself. As a result Mfgs down loaded older cartridges to be safe in older firearms.

 

[FOTIS]

I would not use +P loads in it.

 

[C.Smith]

I would not use +P loads in it.

+1 I would error on the side of caution on that one. I would hate to have to replace a rifle or worse yet have my face reconstructed.

Corey

 

[FOTIS]

Well a facial reconstruction on me can only lead to an improvement, but I still would not use them.

 

[257 Ackley]

TD,

I dont believe +P existed in 1968, so I would ere on the side of caution and start low and go from there. Its Norma brass so you ought to be able to push it.

The +P loading is for the firearm, rather than the brass. (I beleive it is an early marketing ploy to make us by special brass. Yeah like the big brass co is going to run an entire new run of same brass and make it 10-20% stronger,,, LOL. Pretty smart to put an additional 2 digits on the headstamp and imply that).

Today the brass is the weak link in the big picture, With modern firarms you can only push a certain lot of brass so far, regardless of velocity before you before you see psi issues arrise. Sometimes metalurigical issues come to light even with the bestest & newest brass. So in short, if your using a modern firearm, let your brass be your indicator of PSI. Rifle cartirdges of old, this did not necessarily apply, the limiting factor was more the receiver itself. As a result Mfgs down loaded older cartridges to be safe in older firearms.

Tom -
I use standard Winchester brass that is not designated +P for my 257 AI. Everything I load is going to be pushing the limits more than any +P load will. As Rod said; work up to where you want to be and let the brass tell you when have reached the limit of what it is capable of handling. If you don't want to use it, send it to me for my AI :mrgreen: .

 

[JD338]

Tom,

I would not do it. Send it to me and I will dispose it for you.

I use R-P brass in my 257 Roberts and have had no problems with case life.

JD338

 

[nodak7mm]

TD,

Official +P pressures are established by the SAAMI for certain cartridges; in general the +P pressure is approximately 10% higher than the standard pressure.

In 1972 , ammunition manufacturers lowered the pressure of their standard rounds . +P ammunition was designed to replicate the performance of that had been standard pressure cartridges.

+P cartridges are not recommended to be used in firearms of questionable quality, but rather in proven manufacturers.

The +P standard is designed so that if a shooter was to accidentally use a +P cartridge in a non-+P-rated firearm, the chance of a one-time explosive failure is minimal as long as the gun was in good physical condition.

Std .257 Bob = 54K
+P .257 Bob = 58K

The above statements are gleaned from various articles. Google away and research the issue yourself and make your own determination if you'd use it or not. I sure as heck would not take the word of a keyboard ballistiction, such as myself..

I have been shooting the bob in both dresses since the 1990's. Typical brass quality back then, I found to be soft.. Had I had some of that Norma Brass, whose reputation for quality stands alone, maybe I would've been more impressed with the Ackley over the orig bob.

If you dont, Send it to 257 Ack or me, I too, have a std bob and an Ack Bob... :wink:

Rod

 

[Bruce Mc]

I don't think there is any difference in +P brass and any other. The +P headstamp was used by winchester when they started making .257 Roberts ammo to the higher SAAMI pressure standard. The brass wasn't any different it just had a different head stamp. Most brass makers have been using the same base blank for 6mm Rem as well as .257 Roberts and the 6mm Rem is a high pressure animal. Just work up your loads conservatively. I have shot some very hot Bob loads from Remington brass without any problems and it ain't stamped +P.

 

[PJGunner]

Most of the Norma brass I've used has been softer than say Remington or Winchester brass. Primer pockets loosened up fairly quickly even with semi-moderate loading. That not mid range loading or loaded pedal to the metal type loading. I doubt shooting plus P type loads would be dangerous but brass like will probably be quite short. FWIW, I don't think Norma has made any .257 Bob brass in one hell of a long time. About 5 years ago, I bought a Ruger #1B in .257 Bob and five boxes of Normar ammo came with it. Very accurate ammo but I've never reloaded the brass fired in that rifle.
Paul B.

 

[tddeangelo]

I wonder if this brass is worth something to someone out there who collects such stuff? I'd be just as happy to sell it and get Nosler brass.

It's in a box in good shape.