Pac-Nor order specs

NWBlacktail

Handloader
Dec 17, 2011
357
0
I'm about ready to place my order (maybe 2 weeks out), but never had a custom barrel done. I looked at the order sheet on the pac-nor site, and below is what I'm thinking about. Mainly for a hunting/playing rifle. I want to shoot 168 grain VLD/ABLR, but would like to keep the door open to heavier bullets.

1. Should I go with the 1:9? Or maybe 1:8 (the 168 gr Barns LRX specifies a 1:8)
2. Flutes, 6 OK? More/less, none at all? I'm waning to lighten up the #4 contour barrel.
3. Contour, I don't mind a bit of weight, #3 or #4 Fluted?
4. Finish, polished or bead blasted? I think my current factory action looks more bead blasted, but I'm not sure.

Pac-Nor Custom Barrel
Caliber:7mm (.284")
Chamber:280 Remington Ackley
Stainless Steel
Grade: Super-Match
Twist: 5 groove/9" twist
Contour: No. 4
Finished Length: 24
Crown: 11 Degree
Finish: Bead Blasted
Fluting: 6 flutes
Type: Fitted and Chambered
Action: Remington 700 stainless
 
First off what is your goal weight, figure it out and then go with a contour that helps you get there. Easiest way to loose weight is in the barrel. Second it's better to twist 8 and not need it than to need 8 and not have it. I'd probably go with a 3 groove as they are supposed to clean quicker, and the one example I have from Pac-Nor seems to hold true.
 
Fluting is basically cosmetics. If you call the various barrel makers they will tell you a fluted #4 that weigh the same as a #3 will shoot the same as a #3. So you can save 100.00+ and go straight to a #3 unless you like the look and then you pay for the fluting.

Most stainless actions are bead blasted.

I don't think a 8 twist would hurt you.
 
Thanks!

Do you not gain in stiffness with a # 4 fluted over a #3? I recall doing the weight calculator, and they are about the same. Fluting is about $125 less in college funds for the kids, so it's definitely a consideration.

chambered for a 280ai. :mrgreen:
 
Just make sure you/PacNor is clear on which .280AI chamber they are cutting... When Nosler first introduced it, there was a little confusion as far as a few important dimensions (what those might be I don't recall).
 
BK":3e82y7z1 said:
Just make sure you/PacNor is clear on which .280AI chamber they are cutting... When Nosler first introduced it, there was a little confusion as far as a few important dimensions (what those might be I don't recall).

I emailed Pac-Nor about that. Their spec sheet only lists one 280 AI version, and it's listed under the 'wildcat' chambering. They said they have both the Nosler (SAAMI) and wildcat version available. But yes, I already bough 250 pcs of Nosler brass, and that would be very unfortunate to have the wrong chambering. :wink:
 
Pac-Nor does pretty good stuff IMO.
They rebarreled a Mauser action for me in 6.5-06 AI at 26" in a #3 contour. It shoots very well. My second one is still there, hopefully done this week.
I see you are going at 24" which should be just fine to carry in either a 3 or 4. Regardless what their site says the 4 is going to weigh in at 4-8 oz more than the 3. I would think either will be stiff enough for hunting uses.
I agree with the previous poster on the fluting and also on the making certain that it is the SAAMI (Nosler) 280, which it probably is as I seem to remember Pac-Nor did some of the original Nosler Rifle barrels and may still.
Agree that for our uses a little too much twist is better than too little.
I think you'll like their barrels.
 
First custom barrel is a learning experience. I think you're on the right track.

Might be worth a phone call to them, to confirm a couple of things - like the chambering...

Flutes, in my opinion, are pretty much worthless. Get the contour you want. For some years I did a fair bit of NRA match shooting, and very seldom did anyone show up with a fluted barrel. These were guys and gals who put a new barrel on their match rifles every six months or so, sometimes once a year, and it helped the bottom line, not paying for flutes every 6-12 months. They were on the US Palma team, and setting club, state, regional and national records... So I think they knew what they were doing.

They'd also pre-order their barrels, knowing that the hot cartridges would burn out a barrel in a few months, while the .308's could usually go a year, maybe more.

On a hunting rifle - perhaps this barrel will be the only one you ever do - so take your time and get it right.

Regards, Guy
 
If I could make some suggestions:

Ask them if they fit and chamber the rifle with less full shank, or exposed barrel cylinder. 1 inch or less barrel shank will greatly enhance the handling of your rifle. This would be my first priority.

Or you could ask them to match the Rem contour on it now.

I would get the #2 contour. The #3 says its 0.635 at 26 inches, so more at 24 inches. And aftermarket barrels are chunky through the midsection. The #4, even fluted, wouldn't be in consideration for me.

Get the 8 twist. It will shoot just as well as the 9, and bullets will have stability even in cold weather.

Bead blasted. I like aluminum oxide blasted also.
 
I have 2 of there barrels and had a pair done for gifts so I've gotten a total of 4 rifles done. They do awesome work. 3 in 280AI all on 700's two in Mtn Rifle coutour 24" 1-9" handy but light. Maybe 7-7.25 lbs in B&C Medalist stocks with Talley LW and a Z3 on top 2-10.

Mine is heavy 11-12 pounds #6 fluted 28" SSSM Bobby Hart Laminate Accublock Thumbhole stock Leupy DD Z6i 2.5-15X44 shoots amazing.

My 338-06AI is a #4 24" CMSM in a Micky Supergrade Mag fill with Talley LW and Zeiss 4.5-14X44 hits the scales at 9-9.5.
 
Thanks for the input guys! I want to keep true to what the rifle is supposed to be. It has to earn it's keep as my open country hunting rifle (it's never going to be an F-Class competition rig :mrgreen: , but that can be fun to think about). And I have a lighter weight 308 for mountain stuff. I'm trying to find that sweet spot, not to heavy to enjoy carrying. Not too light for a stable 600-700 yard shots for practice.

I really appreciate the help. (y) thanks again!
 
My 280 AI is on a 700 action that was blueprinted, Hart 24" #5 fluted 1:9 twist, Tubb recoil lug and pillar bedded into a LSS stock. She shoots everything lights out, even the Nosler 168 gr ABLR.
DSCN08551.jpg

JD338
 
NWBlacktail":5l6cdk58 said:
Thanks for the input guys! I want to keep true to what the rifle is supposed to be. It has to earn it's keep as my open country hunting rifle (it's never going to be an F-Class competition rig :mrgreen: , but that can be fun to think about). And I have a lighter weight 308 for mountain stuff. I'm trying to find that sweet spot, not to heavy to enjoy carrying. Not too light for a stable 600-700 yard shots for practice.

I really appreciate the help. (y) thanks again!

9 lbs should fit the bill then not too heavy to care not too light. It will shoot lights out and not beat you up.
 
I bought the Pacnor 1-9" stainless match in 7mm rem mag. It was cut at 26" to match the old Zastava barrel Taper and really wish I had gone 28" #3. While it Shoots ok it is not stiff enough for great accuracy.
 
Pac Nor built the barrel on my 280 AI.

It is a fluted #4 finished at 24". I went with a 3 groove 9 twist. I sent them a dummy round, they sent me a barrel. I screwed it onto a Savage and bedded it into a McMillian stock. It is the most consistent rifle I own. I have four or five other rifles with Benchmark barrels on them that were built by a good smith, and they can't touch my 280 AI. It just shoots everything well. You will be a happy camper with your choice.
 
Thanks guys! :mrgreen:

can I ask another newbie question? Would there be value in making a dummy round, and send it in with the rifle for throating dimensions? It's not like I'm wanting to load the 195 grn Berger VLD, I think the 168's would be more standard. But would it possibly be helpful?
 
If you have the magazine length use all you can. Seat the edge of the boat tail at the bottom of the neck and send them the dummy round.

I always recommend the heaviest contour you can handle. I can get in better shape to carry a rifle with a barrel that weighs 1 pound more. I'm sure I can shed a pound from my pack to compensate too. From experience I know heavier barrels consistent shoot more accurately and it's even more prevalent at longer ranges. I personally don't like anything less than a #5 and I prefer a light Palma or Sendero. That way the rifle has enough barrel weight to control muzzle jump with a brake in most magnum calibers.
 
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