Savage 99 cracked tang repair, first time.

[Mountain Goat]

My goal was to get stability out the stock since I plan on using this rifle. This is the 99 that I purchased here on the forum and finally found the nerve and a day to give it a try.

I pulled the stock off and examined the extent of the crack. It actually was "V" shaped and extended into the checkering. I soaked the wood in warm water to make it softer and less prone to splintering as I was planning on spreading the crack. I did this with bamboo BBQ skewers. Once I was satisfied with the spread, I "test run" some pieces of paper through the crack to get a feel for the glue application. Nothing else to do now but just go for it. I finished the adhesive application and clamped the stock together using a series of wraps with surgical tubing. After a few hours, this is what I ended up with. I believe it will provide years of service and is still one rifle with some serious cool factor. I have yet to decide on a scope. The Redfield 2-7 sure seems to fit well and is great for the budget.

 

[DrMike]

That is pretty good workmanship. I know that the 99s do crack in the tang with dismaying regularity. Repairs are necessary, and you appear to have done a fine job.

 

[cloverleaf]

Looks good MG- Give us a few more details on you process. Did you glue up with a synthetic glue like "Gorilla Glue while it was still wet? Or did you let it dry with skewers in place and then glue and clamp? What made you decide to use the surgical tubing rather than clamp it straight off? How much time did you give to soaking and drying? Some day Im gonna own me one (in 250 of course) I might as well poll the collective on how to fix it . Anybody looked at enough of 'em to know what the cause really is? CL

 

[FOTIS]

Nicely done bro!

 

[Mountain Goat]

Thanks all!

I did use a synthetic Gorilla glue that activates with damp wood. I soaked the stock in warm water for about 40 minutes, but only submerged enough to just cover the entire crack. I patted down the stock with a towel and used the tip of the stock area that contacts the receiver as my gague to determine dampness of the wood. I just went by feel. I placed the skewers in strategic areas that allowed the crack to be widened while also allowing me to access with a piece of paper to apply the glue. This was trial and error until i felt ready.

I used surgical tubing instead of straight clamping due to the thinness od the wood in the frontal area near the receiver. The inside of this area is very thin, and I was afraid of a clamp putting forward pressure on it and breaking it. You can easily squeeze this with your fingers to the braking point. The tubing also allowed me to put pressure evenly along the tang and grip area. I felt it minimized my chances of damaging the stock beyond repair.

The pressure put on this area of the stock comes from the long bolt that attaches the buttstock. It pulls the receiver into the stock and part of the metal is actually underneath the top of the wood. This thin spot is where the contact is made and is the reason why the tang area is so prone to cracking.

 

[elkeater2]

Fine looking fix! I think it will last a long time. I discovered something that could prove useful depending on the location and type of cracks one encounters - but don't suggest Mountain Goat should have done it!
I had a less valuable .22 rifle with a pretty major pistol grip crack. I did spread it and fill it with glue, but got to thinking - always dangerous. I have a pretty good air powered brad nailer, with adjustable penetration. I took some brads shorter than the thickness of the grip and sharpened them a little on the belt sander. Then I took a block of walnut to practice on and set the penetration, going into the grain the same way as the pistol grip until the brad heads were below the surface. It worked, and I must have shot at least four into the rifle stock. The little holes are easy to fill, and I don't think it's going to come apart. Ever. :grin:
EE2

 

[cloverleaf]

Thanks MG- Enlightening, Again, looks good. CL

 

[truck driver]

Nice repair job.
Mine was a little harder to do due to the severity of the damage and missing wood. I had to remove wood in the cracked area to fill and re-enforce the pistol grip since it was cracked on both sides of the tang. I used a technique I had learned from wood and metal working over the years. I had always found that with metal when you welded over the cracked area it would re-crack or break in the same place with wood it wouldn't break or crack in the repair but it would break or crack at the end of the repaired area because it was weakened when originally damaged.
To stop the cracks from spreading I releaved wood from inside out just past the original crack leaving enough surface wood to hide the repair and look natural. This was done with a dremel tool with a carbide cutter. On the side where the wood was missing I used a mahogany pin to re-enforce and fill that area. Original accru glass was used to glue and re-enforce the repair.
If I had tried to spread the area so the glue could spread threw the crack the stock would have broken in half. Now it's as strong or better than it was when it was originally placed on the rifle.

 

[Mountain Goat]

Great craftsmanship Truck Driver! I was really hoping I didn't have to remove material and/or pin the repair. I did get my roto tool out and perform some mock runs to get a feel for it.

 

[DrMike]

It is very neat to see these repairs. It is great to witness these fine rifles being prepared for a new life in the hands of people who obviously love them.

 

[truck driver]

Thanks Mt Goat. And Dr Mike I must admit I love restoring wood on older fire arms. I always wanted to attend the Pennsylvania school of gun Smithing but couldn't take the time away from raising my family.