Setting up for the first time the Forster Co-axial Press?

sask boy

Ammo Smith
Nov 4, 2007
6,000
13
Hi guys I am resizing my 35 Whelen brass and I was just wondering if anyone has had to trim once fired brass in the 35 Whelen. I resized and set my calipers at 2.484 and even the misfire shells look like they have to be trimmed.
I wondering if my die is not set proper. What do you think?
Thanks for the help.

Blessings,
Dan
 
Dan, are you setting up your sizing die to bump the shoulder .001-003"? I would think you are using brass that has already been fired in your rifle, so by bumping that shoulder back a little, you would negate having to trim. I usually fire all new brass, the way it is, the first time and upon firing in my rifle, after resizing, trim them all to spec. Usually once that is complete, they don't grow much at all for quite alot of firings. Granted, this is my rifle, but it works for the majority of them.
 
Scotty, I just followed the directions from Forster that states set the full length sizing die so that it is just touching the shell holder so that is what I have done. I will likely only shoot brass that has been fired from my rifle. I hope to pick up another 100 brass then I should be good for quite awhile as I will have close to 200.
I pull the bullets from my misfires and even that brass after being FL sized will need a little trim.
Of course I have a Forster case trimmer but no 35 cal pilot :oops: last time I could not find a pilot in Regina and had to special order one.
I will check tomorrow :wink: I was hoping to get out to the range tomorrow but this might slow me down a bit.
I sure found it easy to use the Forster press in my opinion smoother that the Rock Chucker supreme.

Blessings,
Dan
 
Dan, I personally feel like you need some kind of gauge in order to set your dies for ideal headspace for your rifle.

http://www.larrywillis.com/

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704 ... comparator

Both of the tools above, I have used, I currently use the Innovative Tech digital gauge. Works like a champ, but the Hornady does the same work, for less money.

Set your dies up so you are measuring a - .0015 - .003/4 for your rifle. This will allow for a good shoulder bump and allow the cases to rechamber in your rifle easily, with almost no friction, but cases will not continue to stretch (much) upon subsequent firings. The average factory die setting "to touch the shellholder" will put that shoulder back alot, which in turn will lead to case head separation. It usually takes me a little bit to get the dies set up correctly as some rifles will allow as little as .001 and chamber easily, whereas my WSM's require just a little more. I would bet your Whelen would be fine around .001/.002.. Trust me Dan, it will cut your trimming down and your cases will last forever. Some like to just neck size, but for me, doing this exact setting, each time makes my life easier. I never have to worry about shoulder set back and can just shoot.

I am sure what to tell you about the pilot. I don't even use the pilot in my RCBS sometimes. As long as it is chucked up straight, I haven't found any real advantage. I think the key is to size and trim after that first firing, get your headspace set up well with your dies and you won't trim very often. Even then, it is likely one or two out of a group may need a trim and the others will be good. I don't trim them all back when only a few need the trim. Just my way of doing it, I am sure there are a ton of other ways to get at it.

I think with cartridges like the Whelen, the headspace is pretty important, being as it has a smaller shoulder, so I like to make sure I am getting a good chamber fit with it. It works for them all the same way, but I have had excellent results with my Whelen when approaching it like this.
 
I have relied on feel to adjust my sizing dies. It works but you have to be very patient to set up correctly. I have been too lazy to do it right before, and my cases did not last very long.

When using a FL die, you're going to work the brass to some extent. It's unavoidable. But keeping it all to a minimum is possible and beneficial. When the case is being forced into the sizing die, the body begins to get squeezed down at some point. When this begins to happen the shoulder will begin to move forward slightly. You can use this to your advantage in setting up your sizing die.

Here's how I do it: run a fired case into the sizing die, but not all the way. Stop about 30 or 40 thousandths shy of the end of the stroke. Take that case and clean any lube off of it and chamber it in the rifle it is used in. If you've run it up into the sizer the correct amount, the shoulder will have moved forward enough to make closing the bolt perceptibly more difficult than normal and desirable. I usually prepare six or eight cases in this way to be used for adjusting the sizing die.

So now it's just a question of gradual adjustment. Adjust so that the case is pushed a little deeper in the die, then clean the case and try to chamber it. This has to be done very carefully and in very small increments. When you are approaching the proper adjustment you'll notice the bolt beginning to close on the case a little more easily. You want a good snug fit to the chamber but you don't want to have to use undue force in closing the bolt. If you make an adjustment that goes too far and you miss that point where things would have been just right, the case you were using is no good to you for this process. Set it aside and use one of the other cases you've prepped for the purpose. Just back the die out a little and make another run at finding that sweet spot.

I think it's great you're starting out with a Co-Ax press. They cost a bit more, but since it will last a lifetime or three, it's well worth the expenditure and I don't think there are many presses out there that can outperform it, at least in terms of precision. Good choice!
 
Dan, RR's method also works pretty well too, it is the way I did it for awhile till I was able to get some tools to start measuring it. RR has way more patience than me, so I went with the measuring tools, but if you can do it like he has stated, you would be in good shape as well.

I ran into some snags a few times, with WSM cases, where I don't think they full fireformed in my chamber with lighter loads and gave me readings that weren't consistent others that will fully fireformed. Once I figured this out, it seemed to have worked for me. I don't think you would run into that problem with the Whelen though.

Good luck with it buddy, I am looking forward to seeing how you make out with your new Lady. I kinda have a feeling load work will be short though. It is already such a tackdriver with factory loads, I think it is going to stack AB's!
 
Hey Scotty, I did not intend to come off as sounding contradictory. I could have prefaced my post with a clear statement such as "here is an alternative method that requires nothing special in the way of tools" or some such. Sometimes I'm just not so graceful but don't mean to be that way.

Anyway, you've got me thinking here (look out! LOL) and I have to admit that since I have not measured anything in employing my method, so I don't really KNOW how good it is. I have a bullet comparator set already, so I might just order the headspace inserts and see just how easy they make things. I thought I wouldn't make use of the bullet comparator but have found what others said about it to be true and I use it all the time now.
 
RR, no worries, I didn't think that at all..

Actually, I used the bullet comparators by Hornady, not the actual ones they sell for headspace. It actually doesn't matter which one you use as long as it goes over the neck. You aren't even really "measuring" anything but the difference. I wouldn't spend the extra money if you already have the bullet comparators. I just use a caliber large enough to fit over the neck and hit near the center of the shoulder. Worked fine.
 
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