Shaving weight on a laminated stock

[ldg397]

I have a sako 85 greywolf and was wondering if anyone had attempted or had a gunsmith lighten their laminated stock by removing material in the butt stock and barrel channel much like the option boyd's offers on there replacement stocks. More than anything just wondering how much weight you could expect to shed? As much as a half pound? more? less? Trying to see if it is worth it. Not talking about a whole lot of cost to do it.

It starts out at 7 3/4 lbs, 14 oz. zeiss scope and warne one piece rings ?? ozs. I am assuming a unloaded weight of around 9lbs to 9 1/4lbs. Would love to be in the 8 1/2 lb range. I don't have an accurate scale to get a good total weight. 1/2 pound or more would probably be worth it less wouldn't be worth the hassle.

I know, I know some will say you shouldn't have bought that heavy rifle in the first place. Wouldn't trade it for anything just trying to have my cake and eat it too. :lol:

 

[JD338]

ldg397

Unless you are going on a rugged mountain hunt, is a 1/2 lb really going to make that much difference?

I would think you could drill 1-3 holes in the butt stock and also a series of holes in the barrel channel to remove some weight. My concern would be changing the balance point of the stock. If you do drill holes, make sure you seal the wood so that moisture doesn't get in and cause you some problems.

As for weighing your rifle, I have become friends with the woman at my local shipping outlet She has weighed a couple of rifles for me on her postal scale with no problems, I of course asked he first before I brought in a firearm.

JD338

 

[ldg397]

I haven't committed either way just wondered what the possible weight savings could be. My gunsmith said he could do it for 75-100 bucks seal the holes and maintain the balance. Problem is in order to do it you have to replace the recoil pad. I usually have the recoil pad replaced on most of my rifles because factory pads are usually S&*t. So I only get one chance to do it when he replaces the recoil pad.

I am going to meet with the gunsmith, he has a scale and can give me the exact weight as is and I wanted as much information as possible to decide if it is worth it. It is in 30-06 so I don't want a super light rifle anyway, but every little bit helps. I do a lot of still hunting in the woods and rolling hills of northern missouri. I have remington 700 lss mountain rifle in .260 that is wonderful for this. Personally I just can't get used to the synthetic stocks, I have to have the feel of the wood and the laminated is the best of both worlds with the only drawback being they are heavier than natural wood. I bought the 30-06 for the obvious step up in capability and realize this is a bigger and heavier rifle for good reason just had the option and wondered if anyone had any success with it.

 

[JD338]

ldg397

Good explanation. Maybe the best bet is to get as much detail from your gunsmith and then do the work yourself. Again, I think maintaining the correct balance is most important.

As for recoil pads, there are some very good ones out there. I have a Pachmyer Decelerator on my 338 RUM and it made a big difference in felt recoil. The Limbsaver is another excellent choice. Either one will make your 30-06 very comfortable to shoot, regardless of weight. Either one of these are available in a grind to fit version and are secured by two wood screws.

JD338

 

[ldg397]

I have a decelerator on my .260 don't really need it for the recoil but the factory pad was like a piece of a steel belted tire off my truck. The thing that has kept me from doing my own grind to fit pads is taking the old pad off. Most of my guns have the pad that is glued and screwed on. A long time ago I didn't know they were glued and tried to pry it off didn't end well. Lucky that was a cheap rifle that I no longer have but didn't want to make that mistake on my remington or sako. What is the best way to remove a glued on pad? I like the limbsaver precision fit pads but not the grind to fit I had one that sort of liguified and become real sticky where it was ground.

 

[FOTIS]

I WOULD NOT MESS WITH IT.

Just get a lighter stock.

 

[JD338]

ldg397

I think most recoil pads are screwed on, no glue so I wouldn't want to give you any suggestions there.
If you freeze the recoil pad, grinding is much easier.

JD338

 

[ldg397]

I WOULD NOT MESS WITH IT.

Just get a lighter stock.

I would rather carry it as is rather than trade for a lighter stock!! If you had a great synthetic/wood stock that you loved and someone came up with away to knock a 1/2 lb out of it wouldn't you atleast look into it? Or just throw it out the window and start over??

JD,
I had a browning medallion, rem 700 lss, and now the sako and all have screws but when you take out the screws it is epoxied to the stock with a thin black spacer between the rubber and wood.

 

[ldg397]

I found some more information and thought I would share if anyone is interested.

Laminated stocks generally weigh 3 to 5 ounces more than a standard wood stock. I also got some information from Boyd's, they offer a lightweight option on their replacement stocks and they claim it can lower the total weight of a wood stock by as much as 10 ozs without affecting the structural integrity of the stock.

 

[YoteSmoker]

I would add a few more ounces and bed it.

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

Yotesmoker +1
Lightweight rifles are overrated.

 

[YoteSmoker]

If you want to swap the factory pad for an aftermarket like a kickeez and the original is indeed glued to the stock rather than screwed on, I have read that you can freeze it and knock it off with a rubber mallet. I personally have not tried this, though. If you do swap it out, make sure the stock with the pad is cut if need be to your length of pull. I'm having this done as we speak to my boyds laminated stock, but letting the gunsmith do the cutting and grind the pad to fit for $50 bucks. I'd rather pay than take a chance of screwing up this beautiful stock.

 

[JD338]

+1 to what YoteSmoker said.
Let a professional install the pad.

JD338

 

[ldg397]

Is there any scientific way to "get" your length of pull. I have always heard the crook of the arm thing, but that may be for shotguns? I am pretty average height and build so I may be pretty close to standard, but I wouldn't know for sure.

My gunsmith charges a little more around 70 for the pachmyer, I had him "round" the pad for another 20. Basically takes the "ears" off of it and makes it look more like a nice pad you would see on a fine over and under. Looks sharp. I will see if I can get a picture of the one he just finished on my .260.

 

[YoteSmoker]

Your lenght of pull will be the distance from the inside bend of your arm to the tip of your finger also bent at a 90 degree like you are touching an imaginary trigger. This will always be your length of pull, unless your arms grow

My gunsmith charges $37 for the kickeez pad + $50 to grind the outside of the pad to the shape of the stock including cutting the stock w/ added pad to my LOP (length of pull) of 13.25".