Standard v. magnum primers

[Guest]

Do y'all find differences in pressure using magnum primers versus standard primers when loading at max charge? Does it matter if it is a stick powder or a ball powder?

 

[rick smith]

In theory, mag primers should increase the pressure due to it's longer burn and hotter flame. However, I have had WLR primers act just as hot over a chronograph as some mag primers. I shoot WLRs in my 300WSM and get better accuracy and consistancy. The primers I use if I am going to work at max for a certain rifle are not changed without a drop in powder charge. Doesn't matter which ones I am using. If I am not at worked up max, not book max, for that particular rifle I will substitute primers without a drop in powder. If you are at worked up max for your rifle, you should not change any of the compoents without a drop in powder. Safety first.Rick.

 

[Guest]

Roger that on the drop back and rework to max when you change things. My question was more in the line of "Am I going to potentially gain anything by switching to a 'cooler' primer?" as I have come up to max load and am not getting velocities I like, nor is accuracy as good as I want. I will be playing with numerous other powders, and we will see what happens.

 

[rick smith]

As I said in the other post, I use WLRs in my 300WSM. I started with WLRMs but couldn't get what I expected on the chronograph as far as consistant results and the groups were not as tight as I thought they should be. Switching to WLRs dropped the SD and tightened the groups. Now that may have done the same thing if I had switched to 215Ms or another mag primer but I stopped with load development as I was satisfied with the results. The velocity may or may not change with just a primer change, Have had it go both ways.Rick.

 

[old #7]

Would using the slower burning powders in smaller cases require mag primers for a consistant burn?
Example: rl22 in a 30'06 case.
I have read that the slower burning powders perform better at close to max loads. Maybe the mag primer would help in a 270 or 280?

 

[JD338]

You do not need a mag primer in '06 class or smaller cases. My gunsmith did however recomend I use a mag primer in my 280 AI for better accuracy and my groups did shrink.

JD338

 

[REDGREEN]

I have found that my group sizes and velocity deviation are excellent since i have been loading WLRM's in the magnum and non magnums. The 25 06 seems to prefer a magnum primer over a non magnum. With the 270 Weatherby, I have managed to get the standard deviation down to 15 fps. Therefore, I sold all of the standards and have a real good stock of the WLRMs on hand. As already stated, if switching to magnum primers, back off a few grains and start again.

 

[Powerstroke]

I use CCI BR's in everything to include my .280 with N-165 powder.
Attempted to use them in my .300RUM which caused a delayed ignition issue, so yes, Mag primers in the magnums.

 

[onlybrowning]

I have been told by some reputable reloaders that magnum primers should be used in long action (ie: .270, 30-06) if hunting in very cold weather. My .270 likes most regular primers, but does not love the only mag primer I have tried (Fed 215M). I use a magnum primer in my .325 WSM which is only 4 grains more powder than the .270 in my load and it is accurate. I wish sometimes that I used a mag primer in my .270 because it can get very cold here in the Adirondacks during deer season. What do you guys think?

 

[JD338]

You really do not need a Mag primer in a 270 Win. I would say yes if you were hunting in the artic. They will work, give them another try. I have had great performance from Federal Gold Metal GM215M primers.

JD338

 

[Wboo]

I found that all things being precisely equal in my .300WSM the WLR primers improved accuracy greatly over the CCIBR2. My 2 cents.

 

[Alaska]

I have switched too WLR in both my 338 win and 300 win Mag.....from Fed 215 GM with Reloader 19.

 

[FOTIS]

Anything slower than IMR4350 gets a Maggie cap.