joelkdouglas
Handloader
- Jun 5, 2011
- 1,310
- 3
Gents,
I am in test mode, strongly considering a switch away from Lapua 30-06 brass.
I sort new brass with a Redding Neck Thickness concentricity gauge, and cull pieces of brass with neck thickness variation greater than 0.001 inches. Pretty much I only keep perfect pieces of brass. My last batch of Lapua 30-06 brass I kept 80/100, but should really have only kept 74/100. At $105 per 100 they cost $1.41 each (only keeping 74).
I purchased 100 pieces of Norma brass, 100 pieces of Nosler brass, and 50 pieces of Hornady brass. The Norma brass spec'd very well--98/101 were within 0.001 neck thickness variation. I kept 2 of the others with neck thickness variation about 0.0015 just to make an even 100 pieces.
The Hornady brass was not as good--32/50 pieces made the cut.
I don't have the Nosler brass yet--should get it this week from Sinclair. But if Nosler 25-06 brass is any indication, I expect it to be as good as the Norma brass.
Here's the rub--the Lapua brass weighs about 10 to 14 grains more than the other 3 types. I will have to do some more load development. Quickload says I will need to add 0.5 grains more powder for every 1 grain extra case capacity (measured in water) to get to the same barrel time. The true test will be bullets down the barrel, of course.
Any experience here switching to or from heavier (Lapua or Mil) brass to lighter brass? There's no substitute for safe loading practices, of course, starting low, etc. Just wondered if there's some first hand knowledge I can have for background.
Thanks!
v/r
Joel
I am in test mode, strongly considering a switch away from Lapua 30-06 brass.
I sort new brass with a Redding Neck Thickness concentricity gauge, and cull pieces of brass with neck thickness variation greater than 0.001 inches. Pretty much I only keep perfect pieces of brass. My last batch of Lapua 30-06 brass I kept 80/100, but should really have only kept 74/100. At $105 per 100 they cost $1.41 each (only keeping 74).
I purchased 100 pieces of Norma brass, 100 pieces of Nosler brass, and 50 pieces of Hornady brass. The Norma brass spec'd very well--98/101 were within 0.001 neck thickness variation. I kept 2 of the others with neck thickness variation about 0.0015 just to make an even 100 pieces.
The Hornady brass was not as good--32/50 pieces made the cut.
I don't have the Nosler brass yet--should get it this week from Sinclair. But if Nosler 25-06 brass is any indication, I expect it to be as good as the Norma brass.
Here's the rub--the Lapua brass weighs about 10 to 14 grains more than the other 3 types. I will have to do some more load development. Quickload says I will need to add 0.5 grains more powder for every 1 grain extra case capacity (measured in water) to get to the same barrel time. The true test will be bullets down the barrel, of course.
Any experience here switching to or from heavier (Lapua or Mil) brass to lighter brass? There's no substitute for safe loading practices, of course, starting low, etc. Just wondered if there's some first hand knowledge I can have for background.
Thanks!
v/r
Joel
