Which pillars/kit to use fn model 70

ldg397

Handloader
Sep 27, 2007
302
2
I have an fn spotter in 300 wm that I am getting anew scope for. Thought it would be a good time to pillar bed it. I have done a successful glass bed just not with pillars. I was thinking of buying the scorehigh m70 kit. Any recommendations?? Will probably use acraglas again worked great last time.
 
I pillar bed with scorehigh pillars and devcon titanium putty. I bed from the recoil lug back and What a huge difference it makes! Attatch the pillars to the action and bed all in one step. I use kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent and it works great.
 
I think just about any of the decent aluminum pillar kits from Brownells will work great. You might have to do a little filing, but if you can glass a rifle, you can do pillars. Scotty
 
beretzs":7fvyt1ye said:
I think just about any of the decent aluminum pillar kits from Brownells will work great. You might have to do a little filing, but if you can glass a rifle, you can do pillars. Scotty

Agreed. I forget where I got my pillars, but I'll look for you later. They were already precut with the proper bottom angles on them for the M70 trigger guard. All I had to do was cut/file the tops to fit, then glass them in.

One tip...I used my kids play-doh for protecting areas of the action where I didn't want epoxy to get. Worked like a champ, and the release agent works with it, too.

I also used Acra-Glass gel.....thick stuff, almost like peanut butter in consistency, but stickier. Made it easy to keep it where I wanted it...it won't run on you at all.

I used a 1/2" drill bit for my pillars and that worked, BUT...I did have to bore out the hole just a touch. I've been told a 9/16" is better, but the 1/2" worked.

I did my recoil lug and under the chamber area of the barrel for maybe 1-1.5". Came up the sides to the top of the stock the length of that area, too.

I also did the tang, and then top/bottom of each pillar. I floated my barrel while at it (New Haven gun in a cheap-o plastic stock), and the gun went from 1.5" to 0.5" in its groups.

Learning what I learned there, I could do the whole thing again for about $60, end to end, and probably 4 hours of my time. I was bent on changing that rifle's stock, but it shoots so darn well, I'm afraid to, now!
 
If you can find a good 9/16" twist bit, you will have exact holes for the pillars. Just tape everything if you are going into wood to prevent chip out. Scotty
 
beretzs":3ex8gelf said:
If you can find a good 9/16" twist bit, you will have exact holes for the pillars. Just tape everything if you are going into wood to prevent chip out. Scotty

Oooh, yeah, you DON'T want a spade bit!!!

;)
 
tddeangelo":3qngsy7b said:
beretzs":3qngsy7b said:
If you can find a good 9/16" twist bit, you will have exact holes for the pillars. Just tape everything if you are going into wood to prevent chip out. Scotty

Oooh, yeah, you DON'T want a spade bit!!!

;)

I would stay away from Forstner bits as well.. Trust me... Scotty
 
I found the pillars from ernie the gunsmith's site. They are already cut for the angles and left a little long. They seemed like the best pillars to get, but I wasn't going to get those because I didn't have a mill or lathe to shorten them to the right length. Was it pretty easy to do with a file? I assume you used a standard bastard file? How important is it to make sure they are square if you are glassing above and below them?

I like to bed the whole action and then forward of the recoil lug until the barrel starts to decrease in diameter. Usually about an inch sometimes a little more or a little less depending on the contour of the barrel.
 
ldg397":2hw098pr said:
I found the pillars from ernie the gunsmith's site. They are already cut for the angles and left a little long. They seemed like the best pillars to get, but I wasn't going to get those because I didn't have a mill or lathe to shorten them to the right length. Was it pretty easy to do with a file? I assume you used a standard bastard file? How important is it to make sure they are square if you are glassing above and below them?

I like to bed the whole action and then forward of the recoil lug until the barrel starts to decrease in diameter. Usually about an inch sometimes a little more or a little less depending on the contour of the barrel.

Don't worry about the pillars being exactly perfect. The bedding compound will fix any small differences. A standard mill bastard file will do the work fine too. Scotty
 
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