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These questions always open a huge can of worms! You might be really well off to do a Google search on the stuff. It's my belief the concentricity by itself does not make an accurate round. Accuracy really comes from how well your rifle likes the harmonics of the powder and bullet. Some guns...

Ramshot lists 49.1 giving 58k. Tikkas often have freebore. Things like win brass which is roomier knock calculations off too. Bottom line work towards a Max speed of around 3080 -3125 watching for pressure. You may wind up using noslers Max load depending on powder lot and other variables. Or...

Remember too.....that federal brass is plain virgin brass. Your powder charges are likely to be even more consistant than any factory ammo! It isn't the brass that gives you the accuracy....its how well the barrel harmonics like the powder charge and bullet. You may just stumble onto a GOLDEN...

As an owner of a number of hornady die sets I have to say they are the brand that "usually" sizes the hardest....I wish you'd have spent your money on some good old rcbs! And i wished I could help you in person. Reloading is actually pretty ez once you get the basics down....unfortunately your...

You need to check the inside mouth diameter BEFORE passing it over the expander....your id of. 305 is perfect after sizing. What you should do is take out the expander and size a piece of brass and then measure the Id......I'm guessing it will be around. 299.....if its smaller it would explain...

Love my hornady can lock....gentle on bullets and almost always leaves plenty of neck tension intact for reseating. The grip n pull looks interesting too!

They might replace it for you...give them a call or email. Try running a piece if brass through the die w/o the expander....how much under. 308 is the inside of the neck....anything much less than. 299" would tell me its overworking the neck alot.

The bullet holes on the tighter target look kind of oblong. If there wasn't something about how the target was set I'm wondering if they aren't wobbling? I played with them a little in a buddies 22250 and it didn't go good. Someday will have to try them in my 1:7 223.

I've been making 2506 out of win brass in 270. I shortened a lee 270 trim mandrel to make quick work of the needed shortening of the case. Then a trip through the 2506 FL die w/a slightly more aggressive shoulder bump and I'm all set. Roughly just downsizing case mouths. 020" so not a big change...

I've got 4 contender pistols and they are all tack drivers. I like the build quality and i like how ez they are to clean and maintain. With the longer barrel and a totally enclosed chamber they really jump the velocity and potency of cartridges like the 357 and 44 mag. The neat thing is at 100...

Some of the REMs certainly do have long throats and it definately tames things down as the entire combustion chamber is now roomier. I'm betting you can keep working up to the velocities in the ql predictions w/o pressure problems. I have a 300 win tikka with much the same results.

Most 3006 cases I've worked with start at 2.038 on my hornady hs checker. And by just a coincidence...wind up around 2.042 in my tikka.

What you describe to me sounds very normal. It even sounds like a prefered action while trimming. If you are getting a smooth cut that's all that's important. As you trim more you'll probably also see and get a feel for how hardened necks trim verses softer more annealed trim. For me federal...

Well...my experience isn't quite as positive but my sample of one isn't maybe fair. I bought 100 new brass from grafs in 308. The first thing I noticed is this stuff is heavy. So if you buy it check out case capacity. The necks are very thick and at best average in uniformity. Then...the...

I sometimes NEVER have to trim over the life of my brass. I use these on all my guns and find many chambers are. 015-.030 over Sammi specs. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JKnXJxaAw2U As long as my case mouths are square and I'm in spec for my chamber I'm all set. I even read an article against...

I can't believe it would make a difference BUT...... To be fair you should run both bullets past a comparator to be sure they have the exact same profile. It wouldn't be out of he question that different lots of bullets could give different jumps to the lands at the same seating depth.

There's just something about the 154 hornady. It shoots in EVERY 7 mm I try it in. If you've got a 7 mm anything that's giving accuracy trouble these are the guys to try....but I'll be darned if I know why!

Personally I like to start .020" off the lands IF my magazine will allow me to get that close. Otherwise I start at Max magazine length and work back in .030 increments. I have a tikka 300 win mag that's put 5 shots under an inch at 300 yds and because of freebore the jump was over .100".

You're right about the weatherby throat Guy. I think "most" other brands build a throat into their wby chamberings but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way mine didn't have it. Years ago a friend had 2 custom 300 wby built....one w/freebore and the other was supposed to be a "match" set...

I've seen factory wsm ammo do some crazy speeds. I was at the range one day and a guy showed up w/a 270 wsm w/factory ammo. We ran a couple rounds over my chrono and the speeds out of his 24" barrel were right on top of what I felt were Max loads in my 270 wby w/26" barrel. I just don't hardly...