30-30, 257 Bee and 358 BLR

[ShadeTree]

OK after adding release agent to all to parts that will come in contact, pour the epoxy in the recoil mortice and screw the action in at 50 inch lbs. After she dries up (24 hours) ensure nothing touches the barrel . If it does remove it.

You made me wince.
I would never tighten one down when bedding.

I would recommend reading:

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

or my thoughts if anyone wishes:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/thread ... ost-899007

Everybody has their own methods, so I'm not going to argue with what works for someone, but I don't tighten down either and that works for me. I run the screws in to just snug and squeezing the bedding compound, I wrap the barrel and action with tape around the stock to hold it and to allow for some give and take during the curing, I back off the screws after taping, then run them back in until just barely taking up some tension at the tape setting. Once it's fully cured that allows to torque past that initial setting against an immovable and hard platform that mirrors any part of the action that was bedded. Works for me.

 

[ethmoid1999]

Thank you, Fotis. I hope to give this a try this weekend.

 

[69gto]

Question Fotis, do you leave the tip pressure lump in or sand it out? My gun builder beds the first 3 inch of barrel and free floats the rest, also clearance on sides of action and floating magazine box.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Once it's fully cured that allows to torque past that initial setting against an immovable and hard platform that mirrors any part of the action that was bedded. Works for me.

Except that since you tightened those screws even a little, you may be tightening the action into a "bent", or stressed, position. Every little bit counts.

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i130.html

 

[FOTIS]

Question Fotis, do you leave the tip pressure lump in or sand it out? My gun builder beds the first 3 inch of barrel and free floats the rest, also clearance on sides of action and floating magazine box.

No forearm pressure on Accumarks.......

 

[FOTIS]

OK after adding release agent to all to parts that will come in contact, pour the epoxy in the recoil mortice and screw the action in at 50 inch lbs. After she dries up (24 hours) ensure nothing touches the barrel . If it does remove it.

You made me wince.
I would never tighten one down when bedding.

I would recommend reading:

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

or my thoughts if anyone wishes:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/thread ... ost-899007

Neither would I BUT I am only skim bedding. Basically following 100% factory setup. Only thing skim bedding in the Bees does is adding "sides" to the recoil lug so it will not move.

Works in my Accumark, 2 ultralights and one deluxe.

Now If I were to Fully bed an accumark (like a Rem sendero) I would bed the whole action, the first 2 " of the barrel and float the rest. Barely any torque on the action screws.

 

[cloverleaf]

As has been said, there are many takes on bedding. I believe the link below would qualify as skim bedding.... The guy does it to all his rifles. I believe this one uses JB Weld. CL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX1XQzobtcI

 

[nomosendero]

Once it's fully cured that allows to torque past that initial setting against an immovable and hard platform that mirrors any part of the action that was bedded. Works for me.

Except that since you tightened those screws even a little, you may be tightening the action into a "bent", or stressed, position. Every little bit counts.

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i130.html

Dr. Vette, that makes alot of sense! THANKS !