.300 Weatherby - 180, 190, or 200?

kraky, thanks for the info, I may have to try seating them a little deeper. My mag allows 3.725" and I am at 3.700". I don't know what was up with the brass either. I just figured since they were all different lengths that they would effect accuracy because each would have a different grip on the bullet?


POP, the 200's sound good, that is my next go. Not that I will ever need a .330 Weatherby, much too much for where I hunt.
 
12 more rounds today, 84.5, 85, 85 and 85.5grs IMR7828 + 180NBT, none grouped under 2.5".
 
I have found some rifles do not like boat-tail bullets. On my son's 300 Mark V we had to go to 200 grain Speer Hot cores with 85 grains of RL-25 to get it to group! Maybe some 200 PT's would be the ticket for you!
 
Flat base bullets are less complex and almost always are easier to get to shoot accurately. Out to 400 or so yards, there is little difference in performance between them and a boattail.
 
I called and JD's opinion of this question, but I figure the more replies the better.

When I shoot off the bench I use a front and rear bag and I place my off hand under the buttstock with the rifle tight on my right shoulder. I am getting BIG vertical strings, like 3"-4" with the .300. Should I be using my left hand to help hold the forearm of the rifle to prevent free recoil and so much muzzle flip, or does this matter? I don't shoot many mags, the 30/06 is the largest round I have fired in a few years. I am really struggling to find a load that will shoot under 2.5" with the .300 Weatherby all my groups are strung vertical, almost no horizontal string.


JD said that I should hold the front with some light pressure from thumb and index finger to reduce the hop. What says yous guys?


Thanks!!
 
Heath, on the heavy muzzle flipping rifles, (358Win BLR, 45-70 GG) I usually just lay my hand over the barrel in order to stop it from jumping as much. I am not sure this helps with group shooting, but it does keep the scope outta my face. Scotty
 
Heath,

The primary thing about holding a rifle is consistency. I still keep my left hand flat when working up a load. Before hunting, I verify zero from field position. I've shot quite a few bruisers from the bench over the years, and I don't observe significant stringing as result of this practise. I would suggest that you have a pressure point on your Weatherby to get that sort of stringing.
 
Shot today using IMR7828 84.5grs+180NBT, I used my left hand to grip the forearm to help hold the rifle, better but it still sucks.


300BeeGroups.jpg
 
Heath,

At this point, I would suggest you shim the action with business cards enough to free float the barrel.

JD338
 
JD, do I put them front and rear? I have heard people say that but have I'm not real sure how it's done.


Thanks
 
Heath,

I would just shim the action behind the recoil lug. You want just enough lift to get complete barrel clearence.

JD338
 
Put them in the front, just under the action enough to lift the barrel out of the channel. A few card shims should let you slip a piece of paper under the barrel all the way to the receiver. If it shoots well like that, it is easy to glass it or even stick some pillars in there. Scotty
 
First time I have floated one with buisness cards, , I bet it took 1/4" of cards to get it free. When I took the action screws out I grabbed the stock right around the floor plate to remove it, the action/barrel was so bound in the stock I could completely pick up the rifle with no action screws in and it would not drop from the stock. I will try to get out tomorrow and see if things work out.
 
Hope it works for you. It took my CDL from a 1ft grouper down to about an inch with loads it likes. Scotty
 
If you don't have the accumark stock, I would buy a new synthetic with the full length aluminum bedding system. I had a 340 Mark V with the standard synthetic stock and it broke the whole recoil region out. I replaced it with a Bell and Carlson and it became a real shooter. On the good stocks the aluminum bedding block goes all the way from the action to the fore end. Look at StockysStocks, they have a good site!
GOOD LUCK!
 
Floated it with cards and took it out today. 6 rounds with 85.0grs IMR7828+180NBT. The 6 rounds created one straight line with very little horizontal variation, the vertical string ran 6", I made no scope adjustments, just shot the 6 with 3 mins cooling between rounds, screw it! :)


I thought, maybe it's me, maybe I just suck and can't shoot. I walk back into the house and get my .223 Stevens 200, weak kicker I know, but it's accurate. 1st group of 3 went .826 @ 135yds, 2nd group went .439" - wind died some. I then shot my $115 dollar Savge/Leupold m8 4x with Federal Blue Box 150gr Round Nose, 1.522" @ 135yds.
 
Don't give up, you will eventually get it to shoot! Take it to a gunsmith for evaluation before you get too down on it. I have seen some Mark V rifles that need a little up pressure on the barrel, maybe the last inch of the stock. Make sure to bed the action with absolutely no stress! You should be able to loosen the front action screw while leaving the rear in place and have not over .002" movement at the barrel. The same with the rear screw. When you have a stress free action and the barrel floated try it out. If it still won't group, then the pressure point may be needed on the barrel. The problem with the cheap plastic stocks is the wimpy for end that moves around like a flopping fish and plastic moves with temperature changes. How would one bed a pressure point in a stock that moves all around?
 
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