300 WSM field report - Questions...

idahohunter8

Beginner
May 7, 2015
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So got back from first range trip with my new Tikka 300 wsm. This is the stainless model with a B&C stock and a Vortex Diamondback HP 3-12X42 BDC.

I loaded 180 accubonds in Norma Brass with reloader 17. I also had a box of factory Federal Trophy Bonded Tip ammo. My goal was to try to get to 66.0 grains of reloader 17 safely and accurately, but my rifle seems to have a very tight chamber and pressure got up their quick. (In fact probably half of the nickel plated federal ammo was so tight I could hardly get the bolt to close.) My rifle didn't like the factory ammo and the best it would do was 2.5" at 100 yards.

With the handloads I stopped at 65.0 grains as I was getting good pressures, but this load was dead accurate and the last 3 3 shot groups were .98, .82, .85. So I think I am settled on this load...Should be right at 3000 FPS.

The one drawback was the recoil...The light tikka, even with the nice pad on the B&C Stock kicked and kicked hard...I got in 40 rounds and my shoulder is bruised up...Anymore shooting probably would have started getting a flinch. So I decided to take it down to the gunsmith to put a muzzle break on.

This will add approx. 1.5" to the overall length of the gun. The smith said the breaks he installs lowers felt recoil approx. 30-35%. If this can be achieved in my rifle, what would you say that would put it on par with? a 243? 270/280?
 
It's tough to say what the felt recoil will be like. It will be less that's for sure. If it all possible make sure the brake is removable and you get a thread protector built. Maybe it's just me but there is no way I would hunt with a brake.
 
Sounds like a sweet load. I agree with Bill, a cap for the muzzle brake isn't a bad idea.

That sorta accuracy should work well and the speed should be around 3000-3050 I'd bet.
 
Felt recoil is very subjective, but in a friend's braked .300WSM Tikka I've fired, I'd say it tamed the recoil down to about the level of a .270. The noise level went up to about the level of dynamite on the end of a broomstick. It wasn't worth the trade off to me.

I've had the same rifle and put the Simms pad on the factory stock- helped quite a lot. Not sure what the B&C has on it.

As a frequent user of lightweight .300WSMs.... I tend to stop at about 20 rounds. I can shoot my .270 and my .308 all day, not my .300.
 
With that accuracy I would stop as well and be happy as can be. Hodgeman has given good advise on the Simms recoil pad. I"m quite sure B&C stocks come with Decelerator recoil pads and have owned both types I'll take the Simms limbsaver all day long and twice on Sundays over the decelerator pad.
 
I have talked with the gunsmith, and the break is one they build on a lathe in house to match the barrel diameter but also, they drill the holes at more of a forward facing angle so you still get some reduction but not nearly the noise increase of other breaks. Also there is not bottom holes to benefit prone shooting
 
Sounds like a very nice brake and as long as you are happy and it does what you want that is all that matters.
 
Idaho, With 65 grains of RL17 and a tight chamber you might be surprised at the velocity your'e getting. With 65 grains of RL17 I'm running about 3060fps with an AccuBond out of my Kimber Montana. I settled with 64 grains of RL17 as the accuracy was a bit better and I'm still getting 3030fps.
 
Hunting gun or range gun? You should do what you feel is best but if for hunting I'd leave it as is and spend the money for components and stockpile that recipe. 40 rnds for a hunting rifle is a long session. 40 rnds for 300 anything would be a long session for me. You may end up having to tweak that load after changing the barrel harmonics. There is no such thing as a quiet brake. The more effective it is as a brake the more noise it is likely to make.
 
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