A Culprit Behind Poor Accuracy

bullet

Handloader
Dec 26, 2007
4,973
8
There have been times through out my 30yrs of loading and developing loads for the range and hunting, that I found my groups opening up and struggled to get the accuracy I wanted. Through the years I have discovered one of the most over looked culprits leading to poor accuracy.

Carbon is much more of problem in all the load work I have done through the years than is copper. We get to thinking copper and everybody attacks the copper. Yes there will be copper buildup. Some rifles of mine had rough and poorer barrels than others did and with the soft copper Barnes bullets they would build up quicker than the good barrels. I assumed for a while that it was copper build up that was causing my groups at times to open up some. So I changed bullets and the same thing would begin to happen, even though I had less copper in the barrel when I cleaned the barrel using a different brand of bullet, but why the opening up of my groups???


So I decided to address the carbon issue since carbon is much harder than copper and sometimes is not removed by copper cleaners. Low and behold it was the carbon build up that was creating my problems and then you add the copper build up on top of that, we tend to think or assume it is the copper causing the problem.

Every time you lay down a copper layer you lay a carbon layer. You can end up with what some call carbon rings building up in a rifle and if so you could even have increased pressure signs without having max loads, while diminishing accuracy. The main carbon build up will be just a little ways in front of the throat for a short distance down the barrel and this must always be addressed if one wants to have consistent groups. You add a soft copper bullet like Barnes to the mix and you have a compounded problem especially in a rough or poorly cut barrel.

Also, different powders have different make ups so they build up differently. Hotter powders (those that burn hotter not necessarily faster or slower than other powders but actually heat up the barrel quicker) are the ones I have found to create the carbon problem. Now all that said, I would use three different cleaners in the past to clean my barrels, so as to address the carbon and copper layering problem that takes place in a barrel. Also, I do not over clean my barrels. Now this is not an advertisement for Deaton's gun care!! What it is, is the statement that all I have to use to address both problems that do exist no matter what rifle or barrel I am using, is Deaton's and it does the job.

I don't recall in my life time of shooting and hunting and developing loads all the rounds I have loaded, and for all kinds of cartridges, nor the number I have put down range or used in the field. I do know from this experience that carbon is the underlying culprit that is over looked and has caused guys to give up on loads and even give up on rifles because they could not figure out what was causing them to have accuracy problems.

I have had some ask me how I always get a rifle to shoot fairly good or real good no matter what rifle I bought or custom I had made. Well, it is understanding through the years that both carbon and copper must be addressed and not to assume it is one or the other without also addressing the powders used.

Nothing scientific just years of doing it and getting a feel for bullets, powders, primers, brass, barrel differences. Most rifles whether bought from the factory or custom made will out shoot the majority of us if not all of us, and we should try to come to an understanding of what a rifle likes and dislikes. But lets remember carbon is a sneaky culprit that does cause a bunch of problems at times.
 
Excellent point. It's not just copper/jacket fouling that causes accuracy problems.

Normally with me though, it's the nut behind the trigger that needs to be tightened down a bit when accuracy falls off...
 
I have seen Deaton's, never tried it but have put it on one of my lists of things to try.

I can't say I have ever had a carbon problem causing accuracy problems, but I cannot say it never has done so either. I do believe that Hoppe's No.9 and bronze brushes are an effective approach in dealing with carbon and I have had good experiences using KG-12 for jacket fouling removal over the last couple of years. I also believe that carbon and jacket fouling build up in alternate layers in the bore, and using these two products in alternation until all signs of fouling disappear seems to be effective in dealing with it all. If there is such thing as one single solvent that will do it all, though, I am all for it. I'll have to give the Deaton's product a try.
 
Every time you lay down a copper layer you lay a carbon layer. You can end up with what some call carbon rings building up in a rifle and if so you could even have increased pressure signs without having max loads, while diminishing accuracy.

So it sounds like you have to figure out how often you need to swab out your barrel between rounds to get that consistancy.

This may resolve my dilemma with my .243. So I'm wonering if carbon is building where the lands meet the grooves and I need to get more aggresive with the powder fouling. The barrel looks shiny after cleaning with a bore light, but I see discoloration (not copper) at the muzzle with a magnifying glass and a light. Who knows what's left?
 
boolit":fl0k07m9 said:
I wondering if a engine carbon cutter would suffice?

Yes, it would suffice. Checkout the 6mmBR site, archives section and look for the article on bore cleaning. It lists at least 2 engine carbon cutter products that they recommend.
 
I am discussing the build up of carbon which takes place not only in the throat area but just beyond it for a little ways. A bore scope lets one see how far carbon actually builds up in the first part of a barrel. It does take some rounds through the rifle for this to build up. The problem is the copper layer then the carbon layer then another layer of copper and carbon and so on as the rifle is being shot. Some times the copper and carbon work together to create poorer accuracy over a period of time because the carbon is protecting some layers of copper by being laid over the copper ever time a round is fired. This will be in varying degrees depending on the barrel, rounds fired, caliber and velocity along with bullet make up and powder used. All I was trying to do with the initial post was to remind us to consider the carbon removal as well as copper.

Using a bore scope I am able to see that Deaton's Gun care removed all of the carbon. It is the only product that I have used that does both with one product and not a lot of work. Here is a link - http://www.deatonsguncare.com/
 
I'm gonna go to pep boys to see what I can come up with that's the same as GM engine carbon remover.

A bore scope aye... can't afford that. :wink: Oh bullet, thank you very much for the insight... I hope it helps me. :mrgreen:
 
As a friend of mine who shoots competition and has won many of the events he shoots in, explained to me, and this really explains things and helps us frame it in our mind what is going on about the carbon ring. A carbon ring will generally start in the chamber, just at the point where your actual piece of brass ends. For example, say your chamber length is 1.515 inches, and you trim your brass to 1.500. The ring will develop in that .015 area. As I said before, they can be very difficult to see without a bore scope.

Here is some advice from Tony Boyer's book that my friend wrote me about. To attack a carbon ring, use a stiff brush that is one caliber size larger than your actual bore. In other words, say you are shooting a 6PPC. (.243) You would use a 6.5 brush. The brush has a small amount of Iosso bore paste on it, and is attached to a non-revolving cleaning rod, like the little one piece rods for a handgun. You place the brush just into the chamber area, and then rotate the brush. You do NOT want the brush to enter the actual rifling area of the barrel!!!!!

Sure hopes this helps us and gives us more insight on the care and getting good groups from our rifles. I am not an expert in any of this but a little info sure helps us get better groups and understand how that might be accomplished.
 
Thanks bullet.
This is definitely one more thing I'll have in my arsenal of things to look at when accuracy starts to go south.
 
Back from pep boys with Sea Foam.... It takes out the carbon fouling... :grin: We'll see how it goes at the range.
 
boolit":3i1q0bm2 said:
Back from pep boys with Sea Foam.... It takes out the carbon fouling... :grin: We'll see how it goes at the range.

You need to be careful with that because it could also impact the surface of your throat and barrel especially stainless steel and have and adverse affect by leaving microscopic pits that will increase the asperities of your barrel surface and actually scar away more copper from the bullet and make future cleaning of the carbon more difficult than now. Use a known tested and tried product and don't use your guns as a test field.


Dealing with the need to have a fouled barrel let me say the following and why carbon is something that we address with copper.
All things have a resistant factor, so the bullet riding on the carbon will for all intents and purposes (what is to small to measure) have less drag than when riding on a clean metal surface like the barrel that does have metal asperities, so when the first round is fired the carbon does fill much of the peaks and valleys (asperities) on the metal surface which allows for less copper to be filed away on the following round and provides for a consistent ride on the lands until to much carbon and copper builds up and is accumulated on the metal surface of the barrel. Then it begins to be a defeating attribute instead of a contributing attribute to accuracy.
 
Report this postReply with quote Re: cleaning carbon from a barrel
by 30-338 » Fri Oct 29, 2010 7:35 am

I've always used GM Top Engine Cleaner mixed with alittle Kroil. Here an article http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html. I started using it back when I got into BR and I still have one can of the old stuff (11oz) plus acouple cans newer ones (15oz). I've never had a problem with it on my custom barrels and for copper I use Sweet's.

One thing I get picky about is cleaning as I have a set of rods for each caliber I like the bore-tech rods with a brush and use dewey with a patch and I use the doble rod holders from Sinclair.

I find with the good barrel I don't get alot of carbon or copper. I also like to wear a barrel out from shooting not cleaning.
 
Hey, cool, looks like you guys have tested it and come out ok. Good info!! :)
 
Just had about about a 45 minute phone conversation with Mr. Deaton and just ordered a 4 oz bottle of his stuff from off of his website. If this stuff works as well as he says it does, I can eliminate a few things from my gun cleaning supplies, such as no more solvent, no more JB Bore Compound, no more JB Bore Brite and reduce my cleaning time as well.

It`ll be interesting to see how much more I can remove from my bores with his stuff, from what I already thought to be, extremely clean barrels.

Hey Bullet! He talked about your review of his product and mentioned your first name. Then I asked him if "blank" was your last name to see if you were that same person and he said you were. UH OH! We talked about you too. Ya know, about how I enjoy sticking a boat motor prop into your septic tank, stinking up a few things and all that other fun jazz.

At my be-hest, he may send you some VLDs (your favorite bullets) for Xmas!!!!......:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Yes, he called me and told me. I said if the bullets were sent to him from you and he paid for shipping them to me, I would give them a special place on my bullet shelf. :mrgreen:
 
Deaton`s update...............

Received my 4 oz bottle of Deaton`s yesterday, so I gave it a go to see what this stuff can do.

In the past, I`ve always used solvent along with JB Bore compound, then followed with some JB Bore Brite until the patches came out clean which always took "ALOT" of patches. Thought that my barrels were extremely clean?.....................Ahhh,,,,,,,,,Nope!

In following the directions on the Deaton`s bottle, my patches came out blued and slightly darkened from what I thought was,,,"an already",,,extremely clean barrel. After the 3rd cycle of letting Deaton`s soak in the bore for 3 minutes each time and then patching out, my patches came out perfectly clean. This for sure, indicated a definite carbon build-up over time, which normal solvent and the JB compounds did not entirely remove or removed little of it.

Afterwards using my bore light, I saw an even shinier (mirror finish) barrel to the degree that I had never quite seen before.

This stuff definetely works, is a winner, and is highly reco`d.

Although some do and I`m sure they work, I`ve never gotton bore cleaners from an auto parts store.
 
In my remington 700 7mm mag I can clean that one less than my 240 weatherby. I use barnes bullets usually for my 7mm and nosler for my 240.
 
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