A venture

[Wyo7200]

Thanks- With the trigger guard and magazine plastic in place, there is a very little pivot. I assume this will be mitigated when removing the stock material and replacing it with mud, but just thought I'd ask- don't worry about it, or take care of it now? I think I need to take a little more off the front pillar- just about a fingernail or two.

 

[Wyo7200]

Nevermind... there is a part of the stock that is causing the pivot.

 

[BretN]

You are making great progress on that stock. I would think once it's all expoxied it would be a lot stronger than how it came from the factory. Keep posting pics as you go please. Thanks, Bret

 

[Wyo7200]

Thanks Bret.

Boyd's managers responded saying the original crumbled section of laminate wouldn't have degraded the stock, especially when pillar bedding and that they do not accommodate for modifications needed to pillar bed.

You try to give some feedback to make a product better... Anyway, onwards we go.

Removed ~1/32 of material. How far up the sides should it go? I left 3/8's.

The action is pivoting on that part I colored in red. -Note- not the taped part, that is for the magazine to seat on. The red behind it. Must take it down farther. Hope my magazine fits and feeds when this is all said and done.

I'm waiting for my carving tools to arrive so I can clean up the edges and have a little more control over the material I remove.

It is a sporter barrel- do I bed 1" infront of the lug, or leave it as is? I marked 3/8's material to remove behind the lug. does that change if I bed the front too?

 

[Vince]

I'll not venture any advice but I will say that I admire your tenacity and ability.
Very nicely done sir.

Vince


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[truck driver]

Usually for a free floated barrel bedding 1" in front of the lug is recommended to give support to the barrel and relieve stress on the action.

 

[Wyo7200]

Rock on- thanks Vince, TD.

 

[Wyo7200]

I didn't have anything else to do today so I excavated the material i was waiting to do with the hand tools that arrive tomorrow. I took everything down to ~1/16" and did a test run with plumbers putty.

Beside the sides being a little thin, and the pillar needing a little touch up. I didn't see any other thin spots.

Getting the pillars in place with out cementing them to the action is going to take some work. I can either seat the trigger guard and magazine tag, push the pillars from the top, and then wipe off any mud and carefully tape it or tighten the screws. I'm hesitant to screw the pillar to the action and push it from the top then take the screw out to install the trigger guard, but I have a week to think about it.

Also chiseled out the tang for the 700.

 

[truck driver]

Get a can of Kiwi neutral shoe polish and wax the action metal, let it dry and put a second coat on. Only fill with clay the places or cut outs in the action where the epoxy can get in and cause a mechanical lock and wax the clay. use the action screws to hold the pillars in place, wax the head of the screw and put some clay on it to form a cap and cover the whole screw( look at my pictures). Put some epoxy on the walls of the holes for the pillars, put epoxy on the attached pillars using enough to get good coverage and fill up those over size holes so there is no air space, ease the action down into the stock, epoxy will push out the bottom of the holes and will push out around the action and the stock on top, use electrical tape ( vinyl or rubber) wrap the tape around the action and stock at the recoil lug and bridge in front of the tang to hold every thing in place( make sure you have also waxed the tape you put on the stock to keep the epoxy off the wood or it will stick and won't be pretty to remove). One other thing, if you are free floating the barrel put 2 or 3 wraps of electrical tape around the barrel where it will contact the channel at the end of the forearm so it holds the barrel out of the channel but doesn't touch the sides or bottom of the channel.
You can use wax covered Q-tips to clean up the excess epoxy that over flows from the action on top so the metal is still protected from the epoxy. If there is excessive amount of epoxy use a Popsicle stick that you have squared the end of it to have a straight edge to clean up the excess and then wipe with a waxed Q-tip too protect the metal. You can clean up the bottom after it sets up in about 10 hrs or 24 when it is cured.
Check your PMs.

 

[Wyo7200]

Carving tools arrived tonight and I'm already regretting using the dremel tool. There's just something about a nice piece of wood and hand powered tools. The set I got was a budget set from "Japan" on amazon. I'm surely going to be using these a lot more than the dremel for excavating.

Much faster, quieter, more controlled, and a lot more rewarding.

 

[Wyo7200]

Did the bedding a little early. EEEEEEEEEKKKKKK!!!!!

I went a little faster than I should have and mixed more mud than I should have, but used less than I should have. The mud on the pillars and in the pillar hole created a tighter than expected entry. Once the action broke the tipping point, it seated pretty harshly and pushed some of the clay dams I had set. Wasn't a lot of squeeze out of the top, but it flowed into other clay covered spaces. Thank goodness for lots of wax because that mud gets everywhere.

Taped up and set to cure:

The morning after:

There are some spots that I should have spent more time filling with mud, like the rear pillar but I can fill it in when I do my Rem 700. I'll need to do something about the part in front of the lug.. when the action seated, it pushed the clay back towards the lug, creating an uneven ridge.

Started the clean up and filed the channel out for the magazine:

Close up of the magazine in the well:

It fits!

Time to give it another pass with the exacto knife, a deep cleaning and put the scope back on.

 

[jimbires]

very good , you got into a bunch of work on this one . I popped mine apart last night . I'll get a few pics up .

 

[BretN]

You did a great job on that Wyo. I do like the looks of the "coyote" pattern Boyd's has. Sorry to hear their product became such a project for you. It did turn out well for you though. Keep us updated on the other one too please. Bret

 

[truck driver]

Looks like a professional job. very nice.

 

[Wyo7200]

Thanks guys. A lot was learned while working on this stock. TD helped quite a bit with his advice- special thank you to you sir.

After five hours of cleaning and assembly, it is waiting for its inaugural post bedding-accuracy test.

 

[DrMike]

Talk about making a silk purse out of a sow's ear! Looks very sharp! Congratulations on a job well-done. No doubt it will perform well for you.

 

[truck driver]

Wyo, I'm just happy I could help you out with the project and your very welcome.
I hope it shoots as good as it looks for you.

 

[SJB358]

Very nice. That bedding job looks excellent Wyo. great work. Can't wait to see the accuracy results.

 

[Wyo7200]

I was feeling good with the practice results so I proceeded with the Rem 700 bedding.

Prepped and ready for the mud!

I mixed about 3 oz of devcon. Probably could have done with 2 oz. Much better estimate than the laminate though. I probably have enough left over to do two more stocks.

Setting up to cure: ((Ran out of whiskey so I had to cal it a night))

Popped it off... First time I heard the "crack"! That front dam gave way, but I'd rather file some off than not have enough like the laminate job.

Cleaned up bedding:

Action in stock:

 

[jimbires]

yes sir , looking good again .