Alaska, would you risk?
- Thread starter Guy Miner
- Start date
hodgeman":2klnh0qv said:
This would also be my response,
Your rifle does not have a cheap piece of wood on it and therefore I would not worry about it. Take it to the cold of Alaska, hunt with it, clean it up and then take it to one of the Equator countries in Africa and hunt with it in the heat. You and that rifle will always remember those hunts.
Gunner46
Handloader
- Jan 12, 2015
- 483
- 4
I actually now only hunt with plastic. I got introduced to synthetic stocks back in '73 at Parris Island, on a M14.
Yeah, wood is Purty, but wood doesn't insure stability, regardless of weather conditions.
If you can afford it, I'd jump on the McMillan and never look back. Then you won't have to even give weather conditions a consideration ever again........
Yeah, wood is Purty, but wood doesn't insure stability, regardless of weather conditions.
If you can afford it, I'd jump on the McMillan and never look back. Then you won't have to even give weather conditions a consideration ever again........
cloverleaf
Handloader
- Sep 10, 2006
- 4,401
- 1,067
Thebear_78":1yl3ui2h said:
Just when I was getting over feeling guilty about Not using Hoppe's No 9, "because Dad said so..." My similar testing has me using EEzox. Was just starting to enjoy the smell of that stuff...better corrosion resistance than Break Free, Hoppe's and car wax IMHO. Looks like I need to check out the hornady stuff. CL
pre6422hornet
Handloader
- Jan 24, 2012
- 974
- 12
Guy I actually am trying to fix/solve/experiment with this exact issue right now on my Alaskan in 338wm.
I love wood stocks. I love wood stocks. I love wood stocks. I love everything about them. The warmth, feel, look, character, scratches, history, etc...
I took a blank and inletted it into the Alaskan action. I pillared the front and rear. I then glass bedded the entire action. Everything. There isn't a single fiber of wood exposed to the elements. Even the recoil pad is skim bedded with epoxy. I then used Waterlox as the finishing product.
I haven't had the time to test it yet, but I plan on literally soaking the stock in water and testing it for Point of aim shift, accuracy, etc...
It isn't the easiest thing to do and it is time consuming, but I am hoping for the results I want.
As for the metal, I would not hesitate to cera kote all the metal and be done.
I love wood stocks. I love wood stocks. I love wood stocks. I love everything about them. The warmth, feel, look, character, scratches, history, etc...
I took a blank and inletted it into the Alaskan action. I pillared the front and rear. I then glass bedded the entire action. Everything. There isn't a single fiber of wood exposed to the elements. Even the recoil pad is skim bedded with epoxy. I then used Waterlox as the finishing product.
I haven't had the time to test it yet, but I plan on literally soaking the stock in water and testing it for Point of aim shift, accuracy, etc...
It isn't the easiest thing to do and it is time consuming, but I am hoping for the results I want.
As for the metal, I would not hesitate to cera kote all the metal and be done.
There is a company that makes wood stocks with full aluminum bedding blocks so as long as the barrel is floated sufficiently that would be another option.
http://aigunstocks.com/
http://aigunstocks.com/
Thebear_78
Handloader
- Sep 30, 2004
- 3,098
- 870
They are great stocks too. I had one on a custom win 70 458 Lott.
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