Hey guys! I'm new to annealing and bought an Annealeze machine (works like a top btw!) and have been learning the quirks of the annealing process. I've watched the videos and read several threads regarding annealing, but I have a specific question regarding Lapua brass. The rule of thumb that I've seen in videos and such is and approximate burn time of 5-6 seconds (with the inner blue flame touching the brass). This seems to me a good rule of thumb with the scrap Winchester brass I've been learning with, but not with the thicker Lapua brass. It seems to need 10+ seconds and still doesn't develop any hint of a glow. I did slow he annealer down until I finally sacrificed a case for the good of the cause. Lol. It took a second or two more. I assume since the Lapua brass is considerably thicker, this probably isn't unusual, but I wanted to verify. The brass I'm annealing is for a 260 Rem. Also, I'm getting discoloration an appropriate distance down the case, but it's not as dark as the factory brass. But I polished overnight in corn cob media and had a more shine than factory. Thanks in advance!
Annealing Lapua Brass
- Thread starter arLPG
- Start date
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
- 7,342
- 924
Never used a machine to anneal but I would be careful keeping any brass in the flame longer than 6 seconds since the brass is thicker it is also transferring heat to the base and that isn't what you want. If you don't have any temp lac I would speed it back up to 6 seconds and let it go at that.
Annealing cases is new to me too. From Midway I bought Templaq 450, 750 and a bottle of Templaq thinner, and two neck brushes for the cases that I am annealing. I spin the case in a 1/2" deep socket chucked in my cordless drill.
From what i saw on the youtube videos the 750 goes inside the neck and the 450 below the shoulder to alert you to the heat transfer down the case.
I have found that an occasional case, of the same head stamp as the batch, will need an extra second or two before the Templaq 750 changes color for some unknown reason. So far I have annealed a sum total of less than 100 cases, they look pretty good, but I have not loaded or tested any for accuracy or velocity. Good Luck Rol
From what i saw on the youtube videos the 750 goes inside the neck and the 450 below the shoulder to alert you to the heat transfer down the case.
I have found that an occasional case, of the same head stamp as the batch, will need an extra second or two before the Templaq 750 changes color for some unknown reason. So far I have annealed a sum total of less than 100 cases, they look pretty good, but I have not loaded or tested any for accuracy or velocity. Good Luck Rol
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
I made a skippy's annealer and have done mainly .308's .300 blkout and .223's of various head stamps. Each brand takes a different amount of flame time. Each case behaves in their own way too. Some change color, others don't change at all.
My advice is get 750 and 450 templaq and test each head stamp to determine the flame time needed. Wouldn't recommend going by color. Keep notes. 6mmbr.com has some really great info on annealing.
My advice is get 750 and 450 templaq and test each head stamp to determine the flame time needed. Wouldn't recommend going by color. Keep notes. 6mmbr.com has some really great info on annealing.
257 Ackley
Handloader
- Nov 25, 2008
- 1,763
- 0
Good advice with using Templaq in the 2 temp ranges. You won't need to use the templaq again once you have sacrificed a couple cases to figure out where your settings need to be for dwell time. I anneal all my Lapua competition brass after every firing with a Geraud annealer. You can't go by case coloring, especially after it has been fired a couple times and run through polishing media.
Another problem some annealers have is that the flame may change in intensity over the course of running brass through if you are doing more than a few cases. The best way around that is to hook it up to a 5lb or larger propane tank to keep a more consistent flame. I started out using the little 1lb green cans, but have quit using them because of that problem. In most cases you are better off to back the inner flame off from the brass by about 1/4th to 1/8th of an inch. If you try that, you will see if your flame is moving further or closer to the brass with pressure changes in the tank.
Another problem some annealers have is that the flame may change in intensity over the course of running brass through if you are doing more than a few cases. The best way around that is to hook it up to a 5lb or larger propane tank to keep a more consistent flame. I started out using the little 1lb green cans, but have quit using them because of that problem. In most cases you are better off to back the inner flame off from the brass by about 1/4th to 1/8th of an inch. If you try that, you will see if your flame is moving further or closer to the brass with pressure changes in the tank.
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
You can get a goss regulator and some brass fittings to make use of the 1 lbers- expensive thing- it alone doubled the build. worth it though.
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
- 7,342
- 924
Well how about a picture of this animal. I've been doing it (annealing ) on the cheap and would like to see what your talking about.
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
The parts for the regulator and fittings:
http://www.supplyinnovationsllc.com/storefront/goss-go-ep-60-1-regulator-p-1350590 -These range from 120.00 down to $25... The picture of the regulator is sometimes different from the descriptions or prices on many sites, so make sure you're getting the one in the picture here. Another shot of it from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Goss-328-EP-7...=Goss+328-EP-60G+Regulator+Lp+Cga-510+W-Gauge
Fittings:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQN4IS/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMZ33C/ - I made one of these by making an elbow from two pieces from the hardware store.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQM8IU/
