Anyone oil bore before firing round of newly cleaned gun?

[BearClan]

I was reminded of this post after coming accross the "Barrel BreaK-In" link posted on the Savage website. Apparently is was originally taken from "Precision Shooter's/Shooting" magazine.

http://www.savagearms.com/cs_barrel.htm

They recommend firing a clean barrel with two drops of oil in it (if the barrel is cleaned to bare-metal???).

 

[Greg Nolan]

I oil after cleaning and then go to the range just prior to hunting to check the zero. I won't clean the barrel again untill the season is over unless something unusual happens. I've never had the accuracy diminish during the few shots of hunting but I sure had problems with the first shot out of an oiled barrel. The first shot hit the edge of the paper plate at 100 yds. The next three hit center.
Good Hunting
Greg

 

[RiverRider]

Hoppe's No.9 is always a part of my cleaning regimen and I often use Sweet's 7.62 when jacket fouling is an issue. I think it is important to get ALL of the ammonia-based solvents out of the bore, and I think four or five Hoppe's-soaked patches does that adequately. So, Hoppe's is always the last stuff through the bore of my rifles, followed by two tight-fitting dry patches and that's it. No oil. It's not necessary. If you could get fingerprints on the inside of the bore, oil might be called for, but you can't and it's not. I have never had any corrosion issues and I do not live in a desert climate.

Consider how you would treat a gun part that had been scrubbed clean with Hoppe's No.9 on a toothbrush, and you planned to cold-blue it. I'll bet the results are consistently MUCH better when you degrease the part first, and wiping it down with the cleanest of cloth would not suffice. Just a little Hoppe's residue will protect the bore just fine. I am, of course, assuming that we're talking about firearms that are stored with care!

 

[Larry in SD]

A noted Benchrest Rifle Builder in my part of the country recommends Butches Bore Shine Gun Oil in the bore before firing a totally clean bore. He put it this way, would you start you car engine without oil in it. He says anytime there is metal to metal contact and one of those pieces of metal is moving there is friction. He recommended putting a single drop of Butches Bore Shine Gun Oil on a patch and scrubbing the bore back and forth to coat the bore lightly after cleaning the barrel. He also uses this same process when shooting and cleaning to break in a new barrel.

With my Bushmaster AR-15 I had one land that would still show a little discoloration on my dry patches after I had thought I had the bore totally clean. I don't know why but I ran a half dozen patches soaked with Break Free CLP through the bore then a couple dry patches and the dark spot was gone. I have since done this very thing as the last step every time I clean a bore.

I too have had but a few rifles over the past 35+ years that would shoot the first shot out of a clean, cold barrel into the rest of the group. I use my Rifles quite frequently, especially the varmint calibers. I generally totally clean the bore, followed by a few patches soaked in Break Free CLP followed by 2 dry patches. I then drive out of town and fire 1 round through the bore on my varmint rifles so I feel I am ready should the opportunity to take a Coyote or such arrises.

Larry

 

[jtoews80]

From what I`ve read about fouling and barrel storage I have come to the conclusion that a very light oiling on a clean barrel is going to keep the barrel from fouling better than firing it dry. I generally use a bore snake to clean after the range every trip and then a few patches with Hoppes BR copper solvent which is very mild. at the end I put a few drops of oil a few inches from the tail of my boresnake and pûll it thro. It isn`t enough oil to run all over, but just puts a very light coating on the barrel. Keeping it up from the tail keeps it out of the chamber, which could cause a wreck. I usually check the chamber anyway.

JT.

 

[Bull oiler]

I use a patch soaked lightly with break- free after cleaning. Before I shoot again at the range I run several dry patches. If I am going to go hunt, I always fire several fouling shots before I leave. Most of my rifles I carry afield now are stainless/ synthetic and I really dont worry as much about the wet conditions that can affect blued steel/ wood stocked rifles.

 

[nodak7mm]

After cleaning the bore, I always follow up with a patch saturated with LPS #2 for storage. Always swabbed the bore with dry patches prior to shooting....

But now, Larry's statement about friction has me thinking.... Hmmm, makes sense...

Rod

 

[JDMAG]

I haven't seen it mentioned here but I use a product called "Rusteprufe" it is a nitro solvent that supposedly removes primer and metal fouling as well as leaving a light oil coating when you are finished.

www.rusteprufe.com