I just read a great post on snipershide in the gunsmithing thread, pertaining to barrel break in and cleaning. I think you will find it interesting and fact based. I did and I will look at breaking in a custom barrel different sorry I can't add the link but you will see it as soon as you go to the gunsmithing section. objective research to barrel break in is what the title is.
barrel cleaning and break in procedure.
- Thread starter usmc 89
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gerry
Ammo Smith
- Mar 1, 2007
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gerry
Ammo Smith
- Mar 1, 2007
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You are welcome Jeff. There are people all over the map when it comes to barrel break in, for myself I usually clean the gun a bit more when it is new but don't use the typical 1 shot and then clean method. With my new Whelen I cleaned after the first 10 shots and plan for the next while to clean after every range trip and after that see how long it can go shooting well before cleaning. Lot's to learn still, with my old Whelen after several years it didn't shoot well it turned out the products I used to clean didn't do the job. A little work with some JB Bore paste did the job and the accuracy was restored, these days products like Wipe Out do an excellent job.
Oldtrader3
Ammo Smith
- Nov 6, 2009
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usmc 89":leiu66bi said:
I am reading the article in Sniper's Hide and especially noted that regarding the bullet points listed at the bottom of the page, there is not much the average shooter has at home or can do for a burr or machine mark of 416 SS in a barrel. Gliding metal bullet jackets and lead bullets may eventually break off a burr or wear out a machine mark in a barrel but it may take a long time. Few of us have a laser bore scope at home to check a barrel and even see any imperfections during the break in process. We have to be assuming that the manufacturer gave us a good barrel from the factory.
As all this pertains to breaking in a barrel. I have always figured that the barrel is inspected before shipping and headspace is checked and all that I can do is put 100 or so rounds through the barrel to break it in a little, at least smooth out the bore for a hunting rifle and shoot the rifle with a range session of 20 rounds and then a good cleaning for the first 100 rounds or so. This gives me (5) cycles to measure any tangible differences with a barrel during break in at least for a hunting rifle barrel.
I am an engineer with an advanced degree in business and still do not have the tools at home to do much but shoot and clean for break-in of a new rifle. Despite being mechanically familiar with internal ballistics and and having done many engineering studies over the years, without lab equipment, most of us can not do much beyond shoot and clean a barrel thoroughly for break in and pray that it works and the barrel was well made and is smooth in the first place.
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I have three New barrels going on pretty soon a lilja in 22x47 "if the reamer maker ever gets back to us about the fact the reamer showed up unstoned. a Krieger 5r barrel in 300 Norma" if the reamer maker ever sends the reamer he listed as in stock and shipped a go gauge but no reamer two months later then stated he didn't have the reamer but it was in production a month ago". And a bartlein 5r to replace the lilja. on my 6.5-284.that I just got from Joel. I think I will do a little bit of experimenting on my own with one of these and see what happens. I am not a big fan of over cleaning for the fact after shooting a match of over seventy rounds and still having first round hits past the 1k mark, that has changed my perspective on the clean barrel system.
257 Ackley
Handloader
- Nov 25, 2008
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Thanks for the topic Jeff...it is an eye-opener when comparing the ideas people have on cleaning and breaking in a barrel. With the amount of money that is spent on a quality barrel, you don't want to screw them up with the amount of cleaning and the products used that are out there.
The barrel should tell you what it needs rather than having a set regiment of cleaning that some follow. I am looking at changing the way the 6.5X47 is broken to see if a shoot one and clean method is needed for the first 20 rounds. The barrel is a #9 heavy varmint Brux barrel with cut rifling that should not need much break-in. The quality of the reaming/throating of the barrel seems to be the most important part of any barrelled action on a new rifle.
The barrel should tell you what it needs rather than having a set regiment of cleaning that some follow. I am looking at changing the way the 6.5X47 is broken to see if a shoot one and clean method is needed for the first 20 rounds. The barrel is a #9 heavy varmint Brux barrel with cut rifling that should not need much break-in. The quality of the reaming/throating of the barrel seems to be the most important part of any barrelled action on a new rifle.
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True Joel, I have a couple rifles pending and will follow this suggestion with them. I think I am going to barrel the 6.5-284 with the bartlein I got from you and make that a hunting rifle. Going to build a 6.5/308 ackley this winter for my match rifle. The 6.5x47 has served well in the tactical matches and I will always have one, but I am also willing to try something New. looking forward to shooting your 6.5x47 when you get out here. hopefully the 300 Norma is online at that time so we can shoot the long targets.
- Oct 30, 2004
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Broke in a few and no longer do it.
Never saw any benefit to it really.
Never saw any benefit to it really.
