copper wont go away

R

romex2121

Beginner
Mar 13, 2009
243
0
seems i cant get a clean patch,, so far i have used Butch's bore shine and Sweets copper solvant,, also hoppes #9.
i start with a wet patch for a few strokes then a brush wipe with a clean patch and start again,, but i keep getting the green color???? the brush is bronze. any tips ???
 
Yea, using a 90% copper and 10% tin brush with a copper solvent may not provide the best results. The solvent will eat away at the brush, reducing it's diameter, and it's effectiveness....and all the time, you will still be getting green patches.

I prefer the stainless steel tornado brushes. I believe they are made by hoppies, and you can also get an off brand version from Bass Pro. The stainless is soft and bendable, so it won't hurt you barrel, but does a very good job of cleaning....ten times better then any other brush in my opinion.
 
Yes, the solvents like Sweets will react with bronze brushes.I only use the brush for removing powder,or lead residue.Then I only use patches with sweets,or copper solvents.
I like Boar Tech solvent, it seems to work well on copper
 
Old style prickly stainless yes....
But I don't see where the tornado's will hurt your bore. Take one out of the package and feel it. You will see what I mean.
 
I used to get frustrated by the same thing (never ending greenish-bluish patches).

However, here's what I do, and seems to work (these steps adapted from a 2007 "Field and Stream" book on rifle maintenance).

1) saturate patch with hoppes#9 (best with loop type jag),
2) WET barrel with hoppes by pushing patch down the barrel once, in one direction
3) Let Hoppes sit in barrel 3+ minutes
4) slip on Bronze brush, pass through barrel 10-15 times,
5) slip on jag, saturate patch with Hoppes#9, pass through barrel, one direction.
6) Repeat step 5 2-3 more times.
7) 1-2 dry patches (done the bore once, each time) - inspect pathc for gray

Repeat steps 1-7 until no more gray - this removes POWDER FOWLING

8) Saturate patch with Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10 (or other aggressive ammonia-based copper solvent), and "WET" barrel by passing down bore in once direction, using a loop type jag if possible (use regular tipped jag if you do not).
9) Let Sweets/CR-10 sit in barrel for no more than 5 minutes to be safe (ammonia can harm barrel if allowed to dry and react with air to form sodium hydroxide).
10) using a plastic/nylon tipped jag, pass 2-4 patches of Sweet/CR-10 soaked pathces down bore - inspect last patch for Bluish/greenish colour of Copper.
11) Repeat steps 8-10 until bluish/greenish colour no longer appears
12) soak patch with Hoppes#9 and pass down bore once. Repeat with a new patch+Hoppes #9 (this "flushes out" Sweets/CR-10 from bore). Water can also be used. To be extra safe - I use a degreaser after flushing wth hoppes.
13) Pass two dry patches down bore, then one patch with gun oil.

NOTICE THAT ONCE THE POWDER FOULING IS REMOVED, A BRUSH IS NO LONGER USED (THE STEPS TO REMOVE COPPER ARE ALL CHEMICAL). USING A NYLON JAG FOR COPPER REMOVAL IS ESSENTIAL TO AVOID THE "FALSE-POSITIVES" (indications of copper in bore when their really isn't).
 
Antelope_Sniper

I agree with you to a point but I believe the tornado brush will take the edges off the rifling.

JD338
 
I've been using them for about 15 years now without any problems.
I have a brass brush that is actually harder then the stainless steel tornado's. With the tornado's you can actually feel the grit in the barrel as you begin, and you can feel the copper deposits smooth out as you stroke the barrel.
 
Fill the bore with Wipe Out foam, let set till morning and patch out the bore. A 2nd application might be needed for a really bad bore.
No brushing, endless patching, or smelling harsh solvents........
 
+1 for "Wipe Out" My uncle knows an ex-olympic shooter and a coach who swear by it. Claims they have thrown tere brushes away. Im happy with it. Local Gunsmith is impressed w/ how clean my barrel looked when I brought it in for some work.
 
sithlord6512":3c2epb2u said:
I used to get frustrated by the same thing (never ending greenish-bluish patches).

However, here's what I do, and seems to work (these steps adapted from a 2007 "Field and Stream" book on rifle maintenance).

1) saturate patch with hoppes#9 (best with loop type jag),
2) WET barrel with hoppes by pushing patch down the barrel once, in one direction
3) Let Hoppes sit in barrel 3+ minutes
4) slip on Bronze brush, pass through barrel 10-15 times,
5) slip on jag, saturate patch with Hoppes#9, pass through barrel, one direction.
6) Repeat step 5 2-3 more times.
7) 1-2 dry patches (done the bore once, each time) - inspect pathc for gray

Repeat steps 1-7 until no more gray - this removes POWDER FOWLING

8) Saturate patch with Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10 (or other aggressive ammonia-based copper solvent), and "WET" barrel by passing down bore in once direction, using a loop type jag if possible (use regular tipped jag if you do not).
9) Let Sweets/CR-10 sit in barrel for no more than 5 minutes to be safe (ammonia can harm barrel if allowed to dry and react with air to form sodium hydroxide).
10) using a plastic/nylon tipped jag, pass 2-4 patches of Sweet/CR-10 soaked pathces down bore - inspect last patch for Bluish/greenish colour of Copper.
11) Repeat steps 8-10 until bluish/greenish colour no longer appears
12) soak patch with Hoppes#9 and pass down bore once. Repeat with a new patch+Hoppes #9 (this "flushes out" Sweets/CR-10 from bore). Water can also be used. To be extra safe - I use a degreaser after flushing wth hoppes.
13) Pass two dry patches down bore, then one patch with gun oil.

NOTICE THAT ONCE THE POWDER FOULING IS REMOVED, A BRUSH IS NO LONGER USED (THE STEPS TO REMOVE COPPER ARE ALL CHEMICAL). USING A NYLON JAG FOR COPPER REMOVAL IS ESSENTIAL TO AVOID THE "FALSE-POSITIVES" (indications of copper in bore when their really isn't).
Click to expand...

thanks for all the quick replys,, im gonna give wipeout a try but ill have to order it,, do u know who carrys it???? in the mean time im gonna try the above
 
I've had great results with the various foaming bore cleaners (though I've never used Wipe-Out brand, as nobody in my area carries it). I like Break Free and Birchwood Casey the best, but I've used Gunslick brand and it works almost as good. I don't use a brush except in extreme circumstances. Just foam, wait, patch out, foam, wait, patch out. I repeat until the first patch comes out with no blue. After thoroughly cleaning my guns with foam a couple of years ago, I never do it more than twice now. It's so easy it's a shame I didn't try this stuff years ago.
 
Took me almost 2 hours to clean the copper out of my brother-in-law's 7mm mag :? Never been done in 20 years. He didn't know any better.
I agree, clean the bore as usual then go after the copper with patches & Butches Bore Shine or any other reputable copper remover. I also use a home brew that is very good but I have to be careful with it & not leave it in the barrel for extended periods, it has a strong ammonia base. I don't even use a brass rod. I use my old aluminum one instead. One of these days I'll spring for a new coated rod :oops:
 
i went to both our little shops and niether had anything so i guess ill have to order :( :( one shop did however have some rem. large rifle primers only 4 boxes out of a brick tho,, also had a brick of small pistol primers ,, bought all they had,, thats the first primers ive seen here in a very long while :grin:
 
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