Current Production 280AI Rifles
- Thread starter Magsrgod
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
Magsrgod
Beginner
- Sep 23, 2025
- 40
- 92
You know thats a good idea. I have a Browning X-Bolt from the first few years they came out in 270. It was the hunter model with the simple wood stock and shorter barrel. I haven’t touched it in years and I really enjoyed shooting it. Outside of getting a new barrel for it what else would I be looking at to modify it to a 280? Bolt head should be the same, might need to do some stock work on it, or just pickup a McMillan XBolt stock and be done with it.
I kind of like this idea.
I kind of like this idea.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 27,248
- 13,926
Maybe a Trigger Tech trigger.
JD338
JD338
This is a great idea, that’s what I did, that way your smith can customize your barrel length, you can order the barrel twist you want and have him do the contour you want, heck add flutes etc. my smith called yesterday and said my other 280 ai was complete. A tikka t3 22-250 turned into a 280 AI. Awesome work for under 700 bucks.
My last one he did is a tack driver elk killing machine.
My last one he did is a tack driver elk killing machine.
Blkram
Handloader
- Nov 25, 2013
- 3,504
- 4,508
According to a friend of mine that spent plenty of time working with a late, local gunsmith, shared a trick they used on the Brownings...
They would lay the barreled action on a woodstove and let it heat up slowly to release that adhesive so that it was easier to spin the barrel off.
Not sure if my local gunsmith uses the same trick or not, as they knew each other and worked together on some projects. Would n't be surprised, as he has done two X Bolt projects for me to date; my 6.5 CM and my 6.5 PRC. Both shoot great!
They would lay the barreled action on a woodstove and let it heat up slowly to release that adhesive so that it was easier to spin the barrel off.
Not sure if my local gunsmith uses the same trick or not, as they knew each other and worked together on some projects. Would n't be surprised, as he has done two X Bolt projects for me to date; my 6.5 CM and my 6.5 PRC. Both shoot great!
I've read a few times about Browning actions being twisted trying to remove the BBL . heating them up is probably the answer .
Charlie-NY
Handloader
- Mar 11, 2005
- 1,560
- 1,220
I had an X bolt rebarreled. I asked my smith if there would be a problem getting the factory barrel off. He said, "not really". Everything went smooth but I never asked if he used any special method to remove the barrel.
For a pair of 280AIs.
Kimber Ascent - light weight, carries great, has some snap because of the weight. Thin barrel with the first 3 - 4 shots grouping well then will open a little with a hotter barrel but that is range time stuff and this is a light weight hunting rifle.. I load with fast 140 gr AB
Nosler M48 - more traditional weight, nice rifle. Load with 160 AB
Kimber Ascent - light weight, carries great, has some snap because of the weight. Thin barrel with the first 3 - 4 shots grouping well then will open a little with a hotter barrel but that is range time stuff and this is a light weight hunting rifle.. I load with fast 140 gr AB
Nosler M48 - more traditional weight, nice rifle. Load with 160 AB
If the barrel isnt going to be kept you can take a parting tool to the barrel next to the action and get most any barrel off, even if rusted up. If that doesnt work you can cut the whole barrel off and bore out the shank inside the action until its paper thin and peel the rest out.
Personally I'd build a rifle. It will cost more then most semi customs but they almost always shoot better when using top tier barrels and you get it built the way you want the rifle to be. I dont have the patience for load development on factory guns anymore but I've build my own guns since 1991. I can typicall get custom guns to shoot in the .2' to .3's, sometimes smaller, in well under 50 rounds. I've done it in under 10 if its a caliber I know proven loads for. I built a 300wm using a Christensen carbon barrel, of all things, that shot a 2.25" group at 790yds with the 7th through 9th round fired through the gun. I've never seen anything close to that come from a semi custom or factory gun. You can also get custom throats and neck diameters for what you intend to shoot. My 300wm reamer is cut for 215 Bergers as is my 300wsm because they are proven elk killing bullets. I've shot or witnessed around 30 elk killed with them and havent lost one or had a bullet failure. I shot one through a Alaska moose shoulder too. I also have a .183" throat 7prc set up to shoot 180 Bergers. The Saami spec is .233" to shoot 180 ELD-M's but Bergers have a shorter bearing surface. Options like that make full custom gun more appealing to me and many others
Personally I'd build a rifle. It will cost more then most semi customs but they almost always shoot better when using top tier barrels and you get it built the way you want the rifle to be. I dont have the patience for load development on factory guns anymore but I've build my own guns since 1991. I can typicall get custom guns to shoot in the .2' to .3's, sometimes smaller, in well under 50 rounds. I've done it in under 10 if its a caliber I know proven loads for. I built a 300wm using a Christensen carbon barrel, of all things, that shot a 2.25" group at 790yds with the 7th through 9th round fired through the gun. I've never seen anything close to that come from a semi custom or factory gun. You can also get custom throats and neck diameters for what you intend to shoot. My 300wm reamer is cut for 215 Bergers as is my 300wsm because they are proven elk killing bullets. I've shot or witnessed around 30 elk killed with them and havent lost one or had a bullet failure. I shot one through a Alaska moose shoulder too. I also have a .183" throat 7prc set up to shoot 180 Bergers. The Saami spec is .233" to shoot 180 ELD-M's but Bergers have a shorter bearing surface. Options like that make full custom gun more appealing to me and many others
